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Thread: SUB bass project

  1. #1

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    SUB bass project - 2012, actual progress!!

    This is sort of off topic a bit, a bit of help needed, whatever, i thought you guys might be interested. A while ago a few of you may remember me saying something about buying a SUB bass body and some parts and putting it together. A few of you said it would cost more than it would to buy a SUB bass anyway (so far it's cost me about £200), but i went ahead with it and here it is, i'm in the final stages of getting it together.

    Here's all the parts:

    Basically what i have there is the SUB bass body routed for a neck humbucker, an OLP neck with black tuners, some cheap chrome tuners i may or may not fit, depending whether they fit or not, an OLP control plate, a status MM pickup, an OLP MM pickup, a seymour duncan basslines pickup, a cheapo bridge i got off the bay and some screws and bits. Now don't take it as me trying to make it better necessarily, i'm not. I'm just making do with what i can. From what i hear the basslines MM pickup isn't too bad, but i have yet to try it. However i would like to get a couple of EBMM pickups, preamp, bridge and neck at some point if at all possible, but the OLP neck doesn't seem too bad, though i may refinish it with gunstock oil at some point.

    Next i got the neck drilled, someone had cut recesses for the ferrules at some point before, i'm not sure why, personally i prefer the chrome plate but that's just me. Anyway that bit was relatively easy. I'm going to get some nail varnish at some point to go over the chips at some point too.

    I've fitted the scratchplate now (missing a few screws but that doesn't matter right now) and the control plate. I've only attached the control plate at each end for now because it's black and it came with the olp pickup and neck and it's only temporary until i get a chrome one so i don't want to be drilling too many holes.

    I also fitted the bridge and here's the problem (i managed to get a fairly similar aftermarket one on ebay, but it's not as hefty looking). Thing is, the 3 screws went in ok, but the bolts either side don't fit the metal inserts, so i'm thinking either get a couple of bolts that fit, or take the old metal inserts out (any suggestions how?) and put the new ones in, or just leave it as it is, but i'm wondering if it will be alright with just 3 screws? My guess is no.

    Looks like someone drilled a couple of extra holes to fit a badass II or a gotoh 201 or something at some point, i may do the same, i'm not sure yet.

    Also i strung it up with some wire to see how it aligned, and it doesn't align that well, so i'm wondering do i cut some new grooves in the saddles? (if so where because the bottom strings seem to line up ok) Or do i get some new saddles maybe? Or will it work as it is? Maybe it will....

    Thanks for reading, and please don't flame me or anything for what i'm doing, i'm not trying to improve upon the original SUB bass or anything, it's just a project to keep me entertained a bit.
    Last edited by the unrepentant; 08-01-2012 at 11:42 AM.

  2. #2

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    Quote Originally Posted by the unrepentant View Post
    Thanks for reading, and please don't flame me or anything for what i'm doing, i'm not trying to improve upon the original SUB bass or anything, it's just a project to keep me entertained a bit.
    Looking good so far.
    I hear ya man, I do those type of projects during the winter myself. Only "suggestion" when drilling on a painted surface put down a layer or two of blue painters masking tape, it will cut down on the paint chipping

  3. #3

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    Very impressive!

    I bet those three screws hold that bridge down just fine....would be nice to have the anchor bolts, but you may be okay.

    Please report back in and let me know if I'm full of poo-poo.

  4. #4

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    Looks like a lot of fun if you like tinkering with stuff (I do).
    The alignment is more important on the neck of course, but from the pic it looks like your grooves are 18,5 mm apart or so instead of 19, and regrooving that close might be difficult.
    I think you'll need to get bolts that fit, cause otherwise the saddles will move sideways.
    What's the 7:th neck screw hole for?
    bovinehost: Yes, I do agree with that, but if there's nothing wrong then there's nothing wrong.
    Beth: I would compare Bongo to Tommy Lee Jones. Bad a$$ and just hot in a weird way...
    cheezewiz: They should take their lace thongs off and play bass.

  5. #5

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    cool thanks all

    I might see if i have any bolts in the shed that might fit... nothing amazingly shiny or anything, but at least it will hold it down until i think of a more temporary solution. (didn't some vintage fenders only use 3 bridge screws though? Hmm)

    Also the 7th neck screw hole.... My SUB bass has a hole there under the neck plate, i can only assume that someone has drilled it out just it doesn't look so out of place, but obviously if i was to put a screw in there i'd just hit the truss rod. I've just put a spare ferrule in there to make it look a bit more tidy, I might super glue it in there and a screw head onto it too just to make it look better.
    SUB 4 black
    FrankenSUB project

  6. #6

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    helluva good start man........glad you're having fun with us when you're all done eh.
    2001 STERLING H/ black/black ice pg/rosewood board
    2003 SUB active white/black pg/rosewood board


  7. #7

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    Thanks i shall do, still got to find some bolts that will fit the bridge anchors and i'm still waiting on those damn pickup screws
    SUB 4 black
    FrankenSUB project

  8. #8

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    Don't remember this clearly, but I think I saw an original SUB bridge on eBay or here... maybe you'll be lucky enough to find one including the original screws.

    Good luck, and have fun!
    Have bass. Will play.
    Looking for Sessions in Switzerland. Area: Züri/Winti/Rappi

    Music Man Collection Essentials
    MarkBass F1, SansAmp RBI, MarkBass Standard 104HR; MoMark (T1M/42S/MVV)@500, NY604; Minimark
    Holding down the bottom end for Redsteam

  9. #9

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    That's a fun project to do, good luck with it.

    Are you gonna use a preamp or going all passive?
    Stingray HH 5 natural maple DOB 05-02-06
    Mark Bass LM II

  10. #10

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    For now it's staying passive until i can afford/find a preamp I'll see how it sounds passive first though.

    Also give me a shout if you see anything of interest oli much obliged
    SUB 4 black
    FrankenSUB project

  11. #11

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    If it sounds anything like my passive SUB5, it'll rock your socks off! Cool project!
    White SUB5 (Passive!)(12/09/04)
    Tech21 SansAmp Programmable BDDI
    (Amp to be deternined)

  12. #12

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    dude thats class,its always cool to rescue an old bass !!!

    i have 2 fender that use a 3 hole bridge,i put the bad ass III on them,its not as good as a MM but it would do the job.if you can sort out the string spacing the one you have should be fine for now,the rest you seem to have sorted.

    good job so far keep us updated with pic's !!

  13. #13

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    Thanks dude, i've got hold of some bolts that fit trhe bridge now, they're black and they're not quite the same as the original ones but they'll do the job they're supposed to do, i just need to cut them down a bit. I also need to order the pickup screws and things again when i have some more money (looong story) but once i have them sorted i'll get some more photos up! It will probably be a couple of weeks until i get it sorted now i'd think.
    Last edited by the unrepentant; 09-09-2008 at 07:17 AM.
    SUB 4 black
    FrankenSUB project

  14. #14

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    It's a very minor step, but a step none the less. I managed to find some bridge anchor bolts, not chrome, not exactly the same as the original ones (not at all really!) but they do the job and i don't think they look too bad.

    Now i'm just waiting to get some money so i can order the pickup screws and foam again (my order got messed up) and possibly a preamp, though i'm not sure about that one yet.
    SUB 4 black
    FrankenSUB project

  15. #15

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    Looks good!
    Stingray HH 5 natural maple DOB 05-02-06
    Mark Bass LM II

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