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Thread: How to convert a SUB bass into a Stingray bass with natural finish

  1. #1

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    How to convert a SUB bass into a Stingray bass with natural finish

    Hello all,

    First:
    Perhaps the Earnie ball staff will get mad when I tell them I did this, but I hope it is OK. The bass will never be sold to any one, and if it inspected using a magnifier it will be revealed it was not delivered as a Stingray from the factory.

    Background:
    I tryied out all Stingrays and SUB basses in my local store down town Stockholm a few years ago and came to a conclusion. The Stingrays and SUBs play exaclty the same. The differences are rather related to individual differences and tuning of the basses, fret board material etc, but not related to wheter it is a stingray or a sub. Also, after reading alot about this many others came to the same conclusion. Perhaps the best peaces of wood are not selected for the SUB because of their solid painting. So, I got my self a SUB. The most fantastic base I ever have played. However, I never liked the finish. Solid white body and black neck and head. Did not feal right for me. So I took sand paper and started working on the bass.

    Total time and money spent:
    10 days, 8 hours effective work.
    Perhaps $100. If you buy the right thing the first time $50 will do the job.

    What I did:
    Disassembled everything, sanded the bass to remove all paint on body and neck. going from paper 80 up to 1200. Oiled the body. The body was done! Assembled it again and test played. Well, it looked better, but no other differences as expected :-)

    After this I created a Sting ray logotype. Got a photo of a sting ray head from google, extracted the logotype in photoshop and printed it on a "rice paper" (called Japan paper in Sweden) using a B/W laser printer. When this paper gets in clear paint, it turns transperant, but the laser print remains...

    Spent about a week putting on huge amount of clear paint and sanded to get all un-even stuff away about this rice paper to get it look like an original logo. I only put the clear paint on the front of the head knowing that I could never get a factory result on such a large area as the entire neck. Also, I like the oiled-natural feeling on the neck.

    Oiled the rest of the neck.

    Done.

    So I now have a "stingray" that playes like a stingray and looks like a natural oiled stingray. And if it looks like a dog and barks like a dog.. Well...

    Will throw in some pictures of the result.

    How to convert a SUB bass into a Stingray bass with natural finish-dsc_5996-jpgHow to convert a SUB bass into a Stingray bass with natural finish-dsc_6004-jpgHow to convert a SUB bass into a Stingray bass with natural finish-dsc_0982-jpgHow to convert a SUB bass into a Stingray bass with natural finish-dsc_0981_01-jpgHow to convert a SUB bass into a Stingray bass with natural finish-dsc_5968-jpg

  2. #2

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    A slab-bodied natural oiled stingray. About the only thing I would say is: well done.
    Excellent work. And thanks for detailing it out for us in your story.



  3. #3

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    Looks sweet!
    2014 Sterling 5H Black w/ Maple - F28653
    2001 Sterling 4H Blue Dawn w/ Maple - F04289
    2015 Stingray 4H SLO Special Black Cherry w/ Rosewood - E96203
    2011 Classic Stingray 5H Lake Tahoe Blue


  4. #4

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    You did a good job. You are free to do whatever you wish on a bass you own but I am not sure about the repro logo although you are not in the US.

    ====================================
    141-DD-76-01 Bongo
    111-L5-5M-01 SR

  5. #5

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    Awesome, it does look really nice. However I love those white subs! Works well IMO
    1994 Sterling The INVADER Bass
    My short films can be found on http://www.youtube.com/user/TheEyeballKids - feedback always appreciated!

  6. #6

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    It looks good...congrats. I probably would have painted it a glossy Black though, as the slab of wood isn't the most attractive piece of wood. But very good nontheless.
    Stingray HH

    Markbass LM III & 102p
    Markbass CMD 102P & 410 HR


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  7. #7

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    May not be the best piece of wood, but the grain shows character. I kind of like the "two tone" effect of the wood. Nice job by the way on the finish.
    2012 Bongo 4Hp Sapphire Black
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    DigiTech B200

  8. #8

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    Hello Jonas, nice to see you on here!
    Very nice work, really like the character of the wood!
    Luke III HH Olive Gold, Rosewood Neck
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    StingRay 4H Mary Kaye White Fretless
    Big Al 4SSS Pearl White MHS

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  9. #9

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    Another pic of the back

    Thanks for your comments!

    Well, yeah. The White finish looked good also. But I like the natural better :-)

    Throwing two more pics.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails How to convert a SUB bass into a Stingray bass with natural finish-dsc_6001-jpg   How to convert a SUB bass into a Stingray bass with natural finish-dsc_6010-jpg  

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by J Romano View Post
    May not be the best piece of wood, but the grain shows character. I kind of like the "two tone" effect of the wood. Nice job by the way on the finish.
    It's certainly unique and not wholly unattractive, but you can certainly tell why it was given an opaque finish.

    Nice job on the refin, though. Refins are fun--check my signature.
    slightly out of date pic
    http://www.ernieball.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic1436_1.gif

    l to r:

    Franken-Bongo 5 HHp (The Billy Bass), refinished fretted cigar leaf satin finish neck, daphne blue, mint pickguard, EB Cobalts.

    Dargie Delight Bongo 5 SHp, fretted, Dargie, b/w/b pickgaurd, Dargie. Ernie Ball straplocks. Flats.

    Franken-Bongo 5 SHp (Moby, the White Whale), refinished vintage gloss unlined fretless neck, white, tort pickguard, EB Cobalts.

  11. #11

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    BassJonas, very nice result. But next time, first swap the white body for my SUB's black one, before you refinish it... White SUB are rare!
    Ball's: Musicman SUB Bass
    Amps/Effects: Squier SP10 Amplitube 2, Ampeg SVX, Guitar Rig 3, Vox Amplug Lead, POD Studio UX2 + PODFarm

  12. #12

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    Great job! Looks way better!

  13. #13

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    I am thinking of doing the exact same thing to my Black finish Stingray. Only difference would be no need to touch the neck or head so no Logo problem. Ernie has told me my bass is made of Ash. One other thing I would do though as I am not a pickguard fan (I rarely use a pick). Do away with the pickguard which means filling in the screw holes. Have worked as a carpenter and it's simply a case of mixing the sawdust from the bass with a small amount of wood glue. Perfect match and a very quick solution.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by wal4string View Post
    I am thinking of doing the exact same thing to my Black finish Stingray. Only difference would be no need to touch the neck or head so no Logo problem. Ernie has told me my bass is made of Ash. One other thing I would do though as I am not a pickguard fan (I rarely use a pick). Do away with the pickguard which means filling in the screw holes. Have worked as a carpenter and it's simply a case of mixing the sawdust from the bass with a small amount of wood glue. Perfect match and a very quick solution.

    Just be sure to keep in mind that they chose to cover that particular body in opaque paint for a reason.

    I'm all for refinishing a bass you love over selling it to buy a different one, though.
    slightly out of date pic
    http://www.ernieball.com/forums/signaturepics/sigpic1436_1.gif

    l to r:

    Franken-Bongo 5 HHp (The Billy Bass), refinished fretted cigar leaf satin finish neck, daphne blue, mint pickguard, EB Cobalts.

    Dargie Delight Bongo 5 SHp, fretted, Dargie, b/w/b pickgaurd, Dargie. Ernie Ball straplocks. Flats.

    Franken-Bongo 5 SHp (Moby, the White Whale), refinished vintage gloss unlined fretless neck, white, tort pickguard, EB Cobalts.

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by ReB87 View Post
    BassJonas, very nice result. But next time, first swap the white body for my SUB's black one, before you refinish it... White SUB are rare!
    Hehe, I'll sure do that the next time ;-)

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