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Thread: Stingray 4 tuned BEAD?

  1. #1
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    Stingray 4 tuned BEAD?

    Has anyone here tried doing that? I have a beautiful and extraordinary 3.8kg Transparent Teal Stingray 4H which I love. A few days ago I had the opportunity to trade it for a Stingray 5 for an extra $200, but I don't think it can be as amazing as mine. The 5-er weighs 4.5kg and is the standard sunburst finish that doesn't really get me excited anymore.

    So I thought I could save some money and keep my awesome bass by converting it to BEAD.

    Can this be done without having to adjust/file the nut? What strings are recommended for such tuning?

  2. #2
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    Do the SR4 and SR5 use the same preamp? If the controls are optimized for a standard tuned 4 string bass, you might not get optimal sound from an SR4. I have an SR4 and an SR5, and they are definitely different beasts altogether.

    The 2008 redesign made them closer, but they are still not the same in terms of sound and feel.
    2007 Stingray 5 HS Cherry Burst / Maple fretboard / 3 Band EQ / Ceramic Pickups
    2012 Stingray 5 H Pearl Blue / Rosewood Fretboard/ 3 Band EQ/ AlNiCo Pickup
    2012 Steve Morse Signature Morse Blueburst / Rosewood FB
    2012 Luke III SSH Vintage Sunburst / Rosewood Neck

  3. #3
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    Oh, I completely forgot about the pre-amp and the frequencies it affects. It will probably not sound 'right' this way.

    Issue solved, I guess. I have 2 Precisions, I'll just try to convert one of those to BEAD.

  4. #4
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    well, I would wait for someone "In the know" to chime in. For all I know, they are using the same preamp. I honestly have no idea.
    2007 Stingray 5 HS Cherry Burst / Maple fretboard / 3 Band EQ / Ceramic Pickups
    2012 Stingray 5 H Pearl Blue / Rosewood Fretboard/ 3 Band EQ/ AlNiCo Pickup
    2012 Steve Morse Signature Morse Blueburst / Rosewood FB
    2012 Luke III SSH Vintage Sunburst / Rosewood Neck

  5. #5
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    `
    Just about ANY bass 4 can be strung BEAD ... no reason why
    MM should be an exception. All of my 4's [various brands] are
    tuned DGCF, except for those few that are CFBbEb ... which is
    damnt close to BEAD [1 semitone up]. However, if you use a
    BEADG string set [minus the G] you WILL hafta re-do the nut,
    unless mebbe you use a 110 set [which is a rare-ish 'in limbo'
    guage, not specifically 4 or 5-string].

    Anywho, I've never had any 'frequency problems' with active
    or passive 4-strings playing my low and more lower tunings.
    Sounds like urban myth to me ....


    `
    S.U.B. SL4 - SR4p FL [x2] - SR4HH FL [Moses neck]
    SL4p FL [x2] - SL4HS FL - SL4HS FL [Moses neck]
    SR5HS alnico - SR5p FL ceramic [x2] - Bongo4Hp FL

    "Too many basses is never enuf"

    Golem is NOT engaged in social networks.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbonesullivan View Post
    well, I would wait for someone "In the know" to chime in. For all
    I know, they are using the same preamp. I honestly have no idea.
    Not claiming knowledge of proprietary EBMM design stuff, but ...
    can you show me one, just one, preamp, from any maker, who
    specs their products as differentiated into 4-string and 5-string
    models or versions ? I think thaz the whole answer right there.


    `
    S.U.B. SL4 - SR4p FL [x2] - SR4HH FL [Moses neck]
    SL4p FL [x2] - SL4HS FL - SL4HS FL [Moses neck]
    SR5HS alnico - SR5p FL ceramic [x2] - Bongo4Hp FL

    "Too many basses is never enuf"

    Golem is NOT engaged in social networks.

  7. #7
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    I currently tune my Stingray 4 in drop B. Its low as all hell. Its dirty and grumpy and it moves walls. I love it and would struggle to go back to standard tuning.
    I go into a compressor (which I've raved about in here before now) and then a fuzz box dialled way back so that it adds some power and breaks up the signal a little without getting all snotty and spitting itself everywhere.
    I wind my preamp to about 70percent and go through a big 2 x 15 bin.
    All up my rig cost me $900 and its better than any SWR or GK rig I've ever spent thousands on. In fact I sold my SWR rig with a goliath 4 x 10 bin for this set up and put 2k in the bank.
    Back to the tuning. I did nothing to my intonation or action or nut. There was absolutely no need to. Theres a tiny bit of string rattle against the fretboard at fret 3 and 4 on the E and A strings when its played wihout an amp but, plugged in, its perfect. I'm using EB medium gauge coated strings .50/.70/.85/.105

    AND MY BAND IS SUPPORTING THE ATOMIC BITCHWAX IN AUCKLAND TONIGHT!!!!!!!! HAIL THE DOOMSDAY FESTIVAL!!!!!
    Last edited by supadave; 10-08-2012 at 06:27 PM.
    '88 HoneyBurst Ray...(with some bits missing)

  8. #8
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    Please call EBMM Customer Service with product questions. This has been said by Sterling himself, that us knuckleheads should know when to keep our mouths shut, and leave it to the pros.
    John

    _________________________________
    Welcome to the affliction
    Bongo 5 PDN 2014 HH
    Genzler MG800 + Fearless F112
    Fender 500C + 210

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by supadave View Post
    I'm using EB medium gauge coated strings .50/.70/.85/.105
    How does drop tuning work with nearly-standard strings? It would seem like they'd get extremely floppy?..

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by BullHorn View Post
    How does drop tuning work with nearly-standard strings? It would seem like they'd get extremely floppy?..
    Theres a little bit of 'looseness' but its not out of control or difficult to deal with. Its definitely not 'extremely floppy'. I tune them to Eflat for a week then drop them over two or three days. Once set , they never go out of tune either! I know people are buying 5 string sets and throwing the lightest string away. I could do that but I want to play normal strings rather than something really haevy and I didn't want to alter the nut then find I had to replace it completely to go back to normal strings again. Just experiment to find what works. If you're not playing something a little heavy (musically) then my plan may not be what you're after. I'm going for the dirty, growling fat-as hell sound. Oh I also suffer chronic flatulence when faced with 5 strings so just can't go there.
    '88 HoneyBurst Ray...(with some bits missing)

  11. #11
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    `

    I just string up a set and tune up to DGCF.
    No magik, no special tricks. Acoarst, these
    are flatwounds, so maybe in the real [RW]
    world, special procedures are needed ?

    `
    S.U.B. SL4 - SR4p FL [x2] - SR4HH FL [Moses neck]
    SL4p FL [x2] - SL4HS FL - SL4HS FL [Moses neck]
    SR5HS alnico - SR5p FL ceramic [x2] - Bongo4Hp FL

    "Too many basses is never enuf"

    Golem is NOT engaged in social networks.

  12. #12
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    I run all my EBMM basses B-E-A-D.
    I played 5'ers for several years, but decided with my play style, to try the BEAD stringing. Never went back.
    I generally run a lighter gauge string on my Rays', and I have flats on my Bongo.
    Waiting...

    "Maple trees have beautiful foliage in the Fall.
    Maple syrup is delicious on pancakes.
    Maple necks on basses are both beautiful and delicious." ~Jim B

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BullHorn View Post
    Oh, I completely forgot about the pre-amp and the frequencies it affects. It will probably not sound 'right' this way.
    You don't say whether your pre-amp is a 2EQ or 3EQ. Either way it shouldn't be a problem. The 2EQ is presently used for the Classic SR5 and the 3EQ is the same as originially used for the earlier SR5 Basses.
    Gav.
    www.musicmanbass.org
    MUSICMAN BASS VINTAGE I.D.


  14. #14
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    I've strung several Rays BEAD - maybe 15? Some sound better than others (just like every other type of bass) but it works just fine. On occasion, you will need widen the nut slots, usually just the B string, but sometimes the E as well. As long as you don't cut the slot any deeper, or make it insanely wider, you should be able to switch back and forth without issue.

    I use three BEAD Rays exclusively for one of my bands (usually about 30 shows per year) and have tried a variety of string brands. I prefer a 130 B. The extra stiffness helps take away some of the floppiness that you can get with a 34" scale BEAD. But if you like the 130, look for one that has a tapered core since it gets a little difficult to get a non-taper core string through the bridge at the very end...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by dukeplaysbass View Post
    ....... if you like the 130, look for one that has a tapered core
    since it gets a little difficult to get a non-taper core string through
    the bridge at the very end...
    Most strings have more than enuf scale length to allow or require
    a tubular spacer down by the brass ball. Allow ? Well, the goal is
    to slip the spacer over the fat stuff [nearest the ball] so you don't
    hafta try ramming that fat stuff thru the hole in the bridge. As to
    Require ??? A spacer may be NEEDED, if the scale length of the B
    string causes the main winding to wrap onto the tuner peg, which
    is something to avoid, and "Leo-type" basses [that includes MMs]
    tend to locate the first tuning peg too close to the nut, which then
    causes the main winding to wrap onto the peg.

    BTW, it's OK to carefully use a pair of pliars to reshape/compress
    the fat stuff near the brass ball. Often, the overall shape is not
    very round. Massaging that bulk into something closer to round
    will sometimes allow it to pass thru the bridge hole.


    `
    S.U.B. SL4 - SR4p FL [x2] - SR4HH FL [Moses neck]
    SL4p FL [x2] - SL4HS FL - SL4HS FL [Moses neck]
    SR5HS alnico - SR5p FL ceramic [x2] - Bongo4Hp FL

    "Too many basses is never enuf"

    Golem is NOT engaged in social networks.

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