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Thread: Stingray Classic Bridge saddles

  1. #1
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    Stingray Classic Bridge saddles

    Hello,
    I wonder if someone could help me with a slight problem that I am having setting up my Stingray.The bridge saddles for the A and D strings cannot be lowered to height that I am looking for which is around 7/64ths from the 12th fret. I have found that they just tighten up at around 8/64ths as if they have bottomed out.
    I am not having this problem with the E and G string saddles which can be lowered considerably.
    I have tried applying some 3 in 1 oil to the grub screws which has not rectified the problem.

  2. #2
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    .
    You need to add a shim to the rear of the neck. That will give you extra adjustment in lowering the saddles further.

    Customer service has them in three colours. Brown is the thinnest and is probably all you need.

    This thread may help:

    Stingray Neck-Heel Shim?
    Last edited by Rod Trussbroken; 01-02-2018 at 04:50 PM.
    Gav.
    www.musicmanbass.org
    MUSICMAN BASS VINTAGE I.D.


  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Trussbroken View Post
    .
    You need to add a shim to the rear of the neck. That will give you extra adjustment in lowering the saddles further.

    Customer service has them in three colours. Brown is the thinnest and is probably all you need.
    But the saddles for the E and G strings go down all the way!

  4. #4
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    Not all saddles are necessarily affected. I recently added a shim to one of my Basses because I couldn't get the "G" low enough. The other saddles were ok.
    Gav.
    www.musicmanbass.org
    MUSICMAN BASS VINTAGE I.D.


  5. #5
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    I think the grub screws may be stripped Rod which I cannot understand. Even with no string tension at all they won't lower. I took it to a Luthier about 3 months ago who set it up to my specs and I haven't adjusted the saddles until now after a string replacement. I get the feeling he must have done something to cause this to happen.

  6. #6
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    Do they still thread in and raise the saddle? IF they were stripped, the nut would just spin.

    How low do you have the treble side action, and now close is the saddle to the bridge plate?

    The screws and saddles are plated after machining, so sometimes the threads may need to be "broken in".
    2007 Stingray 5 HS Cherry Burst / Maple fretboard / 3 Band EQ / Ceramic Pickups
    2012 Stingray 5 H Pearl Blue / Rosewood Fretboard/ 3 Band EQ/ AlNiCo Pickup
    2012 Steve Morse Signature Morse Blueburst / Rosewood FB
    2012 Luke III SSH Vintage Sunburst / Rosewood Neck

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl View Post
    I think the grub screws may be stripped Rod which I cannot understand. Even with no string tension at all they won't lower. I took it to a Luthier about 3 months ago who set it up to my specs and I haven't adjusted the saddles until now after a string replacement. I get the feeling he must have done something to cause this to happen.
    The Classics have hollow (or barrel) saddles. When you lower the saddles, the adjusting screws don't protrude through the top of the saddles as they would on other Ray bridges. Instead, the screws stop dead when they reach the upper part of the inside barrel. I think this is what you are experiencing. Just to check, try raising the saddle. The screws should now continue to protrude through the bottom of the saddle. If they do then the thread is not stripped. If all is well at this point then you need a shim at the back of the neck pocket. It raises the heel of the neck giving the effect of lowering the saddles. You'll then probably find your saddles are a bit lower than you want them and will need to actually raise them to the height you want! The shim at the back of the neck increases the lower adjustment range.
    Last edited by Rod Trussbroken; 01-02-2018 at 08:09 PM.
    Gav.
    www.musicmanbass.org
    MUSICMAN BASS VINTAGE I.D.


  8. #8
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    Same as on the Caprice.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Trussbroken View Post
    The Classics have hollow (or barrel) saddles. When you lower the saddles, the adjusting screws don't protrude through the top of the saddles as they would on other Ray bridges. Instead, the screws stop dead when they reach the upper part of the inside barrel. I think this is what you are experiencing. Just to check, try raising the saddle. The screws should now continue to protrude through the bottom of the saddle. If they do then the thread is not stripped. If all is well at this point then you need a shim at the back of the neck pocket. It raises the heel of the neck giving the effect of lowering the saddles. You'll then probably find your saddles are a bit lower than you want them and will need to actually raise them to the height you want! The shim at the back of the neck increases the lower adjustment range.
    Thanks for the info Rod! I am going to take a look at the saddles this weekend, if the neck does need to be shimmed at the heel what size shim should I go for because I think they come in different sizes in regards to thickness?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl View Post
    Thanks for the info Rod! I am going to take a look at the saddles this weekend, if the neck does need to be shimmed at the heel what size shim should I go for because I think they come in different sizes in regards to thickness?
    It probably only needs the thickness of a piece of paper.

    I strongly suggest giving your Bass to your setup tech to take a look at. Taking the neck off yourself can lead to damage to the edges of the neck pocket and/or stripping the neck bolt holes on the neck heel.
    Gav.
    www.musicmanbass.org
    MUSICMAN BASS VINTAGE I.D.


  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Trussbroken View Post
    The Classics have hollow (or barrel) saddles. When you lower the saddles, the adjusting screws don't protrude through the top of the saddles as they would on other Ray bridges. Instead, the screws stop dead when they reach the upper part of the inside barrel. I think this is what you are experiencing. Just to check, try raising the saddle. The screws should now continue to protrude through the bottom of the saddle. If they do then the thread is not stripped. If all is well at this point then you need a shim at the back of the neck pocket. It raises the heel of the neck giving the effect of lowering the saddles. You'll then probably find your saddles are a bit lower than you want them and will need to actually raise them to the height you want! The shim at the back of the neck increases the lower adjustment range.
    I did not know thd saddles were hollow on the classics. Interesting

    StingRay 4H Buttercreme 2005 L.E. ("Leighton")
    StingRay 4H Light Blue over Vintage Sunburst. 2005 ("SunBlue")
    GENZ-BENZ & ORANGE AMPS.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by danny-79 View Post
    I did not know thd saddles were hollow on the classics. Interesting
    That's how they were made back in the day. Check out this website for lots of other juicy info on bridge evolution.

    http://www.musicmanbass.org/mycustompage0061.htm
    2007 Stingray 5 HS Cherry Burst / Maple fretboard / 3 Band EQ / Ceramic Pickups
    2012 Stingray 5 H Pearl Blue / Rosewood Fretboard/ 3 Band EQ/ AlNiCo Pickup
    2012 Steve Morse Signature Morse Blueburst / Rosewood FB
    2012 Luke III SSH Vintage Sunburst / Rosewood Neck

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tbonesullivan View Post
    That's how they were made back in the day. Check out this website for lots of other juicy info on bridge evolution.

    http://www.musicmanbass.org/mycustompage0061.htm
    I will do just that. Thanks for the link

    StingRay 4H Buttercreme 2005 L.E. ("Leighton")
    StingRay 4H Light Blue over Vintage Sunburst. 2005 ("SunBlue")
    GENZ-BENZ & ORANGE AMPS.

  14. #14
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    I had completely forgotten about that site (and who to thank for creating it) lots of good reading, Thank you

    StingRay 4H Buttercreme 2005 L.E. ("Leighton")
    StingRay 4H Light Blue over Vintage Sunburst. 2005 ("SunBlue")
    GENZ-BENZ & ORANGE AMPS.

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