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Thread: EBMM Setup FAQ

  1. #1

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    EBMM Setup FAQ

    Before we get started, this does *not* pertain to my bass in particular and is not a "hey guys help me set up my bass" post. Did my due diligence w/ the search function as well.


    The "How do I set up my Music Bass" section of the FAQ states the following:
    ...If it buzzes between the 5th fret and the 12th fret, the neck needs to be straighter (turn the wheel slightly clockwise)...

    My main question:
    Why is it that buzzing between the 5th & 12th frets is remedied by tightening the truss rod?


    To me, it seems like that would bring the strings closer to the fretboard and create more buzzing. I think I may not be accurately gauging where the midpoint of the nut/bridge is, or just generally don't understand the geometry at work and that's why this one is going over my head.
    2005 StingRay 4H | Vintage Sunburst | Raw Maple Fretboard | 3EQ

  2. #2

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    Seems correct to me. My understanding is that if the strings buzz at the 1st 4 or 5 frets then you loosen the neck and add more relief (or bow). If the buzz is further up the neck you then add less relief (straighten the neck more). If the string buzz all over the neck then the relief is ok but the strings have to be raised.

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Trussbroken View Post
    Seems correct to me. My understanding is that if the strings buzz at the 1st 4 or 5 frets then you loosen the neck and add more relief (or bow). If the buzz is further up the neck you then add less relief (straighten the neck more). If the string buzz all over the neck then the relief is ok but the strings have to be raised.
    Thanks for the reply. I definitely trust them, no qualms with that. I'm just curious if anyone knows why bringing the strings/board closer results in less buzzing. Seems counter-intuitive to me, but I'm obviously missing something.
    2005 StingRay 4H | Vintage Sunburst | Raw Maple Fretboard | 3EQ

  4. #4

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    It's less about the string height than it is about the curvature of the neck. If you have too much relief, you get buzzing between the 5th and 12th frets. The thing to remember is that this is when you have the same action in both cases, so it's more than just adjusting the truss rod. You would need to straighten the neck and then re set the action.
    2007 Stingray 5 HS Cherry Burst / Maple FB / 3 Band EQ / Ceramic Pickups
    2012 Stingray 5 H Pearl Blue / Rosewood FB / 3 Band EQ/ AlNiCo Pickup
    2012 Steve Morse Morse Blueburst / Rosewood FB
    2012 Luke III SSH Vintage Sunburst / Rosewood Neck

  5. #5

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    Hi guys. Add my two cents here. I was always really confused about this point in EB FAQ about bass setup:

    "If you have a single pickup bass set the pickup height to 6/32" from the plastic pickup cover to the bottom of the G string. Adjust the bass side of the pickup to be parallel with the pickguard."

    So what height should be on the E string side then ? I don't understand what does it mean "Adjust the bass side of the pickup to be parallel with the pickguard." Maby that's because I'm not a native speaker so could you tell me how to understand this ? Thanks.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by jb90 View Post
    Hi guys. Add my two cents here. I was always really confused about this point in EB FAQ about bass setup:

    "If you have a single pickup bass set the pickup height to 6/32" from the plastic pickup cover to the bottom of the G string. Adjust the bass side of the pickup to be parallel with the pickguard."

    So what height should be on the E string side then ? I don't understand what does it mean "Adjust the bass side of the pickup to be parallel with the pickguard." Maby that's because I'm not a native speaker so could you tell me how to understand this ? Thanks.
    I'm not sure why they don't specify the height of the E string side but I believe it's probably due to action. Setting the G string at that height gets you to baseline and everyone's action differs so they don't specify the E. As far as parallel I make sure that when I'm holding my bass as I play it and look down at the pickup, the edge facing up to me (first pic below w rough parallel lines) is parallel w the pickguard surface. You can also stand your bass on its headstock and look down the bass from the bridge (second pic below) and make sure it is parallel that way.

    With all that being said, I don't really stick to their measurements or even true parallel. I'm much more concerned with how That E string feels height- wise when my thumb is planted on the pickup cover. I just get it to a nice comfortable position and make sure one side of the pickup isn't drastically higher than the other. I've never noticed much of a tonal or volume difference.

    EBMM Setup FAQ-8d3a304a-3442-4398-af4e-47e2f34a51f4-jpg
    EBMM Setup FAQ-080772e0-69ae-4c1f-a733-38fb4eefbc28-jpg
    2005 StingRay 4H | Vintage Sunburst | Raw Maple Fretboard | 3EQ

  7. #7

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    Thanks for reply. If you don't stick with their specs maby you could give me your specs in string height, pickup height and relief ? I'll make some experiments with that then Thanks

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by jb90 View Post
    Thanks for reply. If you don't stick with their specs maby you could give me your specs in string height, pickup height and relief ? I'll make some experiments with that then Thanks
    E - 0.13 inches
    A - .10"
    D - .10"
    G - .10
    Pickup is about 5/32" from cover to string.
    Not sure how to explain my neck relief. There is a noticeable bow but it's not a ski jump. I'd say moderate relief.

    Measured with an AZMusic String Action Gauge - invest in one or one similar. Invaluable for doing setups on your own. My action may be a little high for your taste, I'm no pro so when I get the truss rod in a decent place I leave it alone and tend to just adjust the saddles for buzzing. Depends on your tolerance for buzz and how you prefer the notes to ring. Highly suggest toying with it to get it where it feels comfortable for you.
    2005 StingRay 4H | Vintage Sunburst | Raw Maple Fretboard | 3EQ

  9. #9

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    Hi, just want to ask a quick question here. I'm using 2006 stingray 4H. Been changing strings for several times. I noticed that the string tension is harder than other bass (i used to own a fender jazz bass). Does somebody feel it too? Or is it the characteristic of stingray?

    Thanks
    Last edited by Henlauw; 12-30-2018 at 05:29 AM.

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Henlauw View Post
    Hi, just want to ask a quick question here. I'm using 2006 stingray 4H. Been changing strings for several times. I noticed that the string tension is harder than other bass (i used to own a fender jazz bass). Does somebody feel it too? Or is it the characteristic of stingray?

    Thanks
    Funny, my main bass prior to My 'Ray was a MIM Jazz w/ Rotosounds and the string tension feels much higher on the jazz. I don't know enough about that to explain why but I'm assuming it is the brand and gauge of string. Higher gauge will feel tighter, lower looser. And then composition plays a part. Why brand/gauge/material are on yours currently?
    2005 StingRay 4H | Vintage Sunburst | Raw Maple Fretboard | 3EQ

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by YTK View Post
    Funny, my main bass prior to My 'Ray was a MIM Jazz w/ Rotosounds and the string tension feels much higher on the jazz. I don't know enough about that to explain why but I'm assuming it is the brand and gauge of string. Higher gauge will feel tighter, lower looser. And then composition plays a part. Why brand/gauge/material are on yours currently?
    Thanks for replying. Before i used ernieball slinky 45-100. Now i use SIT Power Wound 40-95. The tension is not that hard like the slinky, it's a bit softer. But i still feel it's still hard...don't know why. Does the bridge setting, truss rod setting affect on the string tension?
    Last edited by Henlauw; 12-31-2018 at 08:53 AM.

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Henlauw View Post
    Thanks for replying. Before i used ernieball slinky 45-100. Now i use SIT Power Wound 40-95. The tension i not that hard like the slinky, it's a bit softer. But i still feel it's still hard...don't know why. Does the bridge setting, truss rod setting affect on the string tension?
    I would search the forum (or just google) for string tension guides/threads. I don't really have the best understanding of it but I know there are solid resources out there. Here's a reddit thread I keep bookmarked: Bass Guitar String Tension Chart : Bass
    2005 StingRay 4H | Vintage Sunburst | Raw Maple Fretboard | 3EQ

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by YTK View Post
    I would search the forum (or just google) for string tension guides/threads. I don't really have the best understanding of it but I know there are solid resources out there. Here's a reddit thread I keep bookmarked: Bass Guitar String Tension Chart : Bass
    Will do. Thanks a lot

  14. #14

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    Every string company is different and they will all feel slightly different on your bass. Also, look into the core of the string. Round vs hexa core will make the tension much different as well as making the string easier or harder to bend.

    All compounds are different between companies too. This will change the tension from string to string on your bass.

    I love my cobalt rounds, but it's just me....check as many out as you can...

    Brash

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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