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Thread: Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special

  1. #16

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    Well, I hate to say it, but while you may think otherwise, your issue stems from the cables. The TIP of the cable touches a plastic piece, which in turn presses two electrical contacts together. This is what turns on the electronics of the bass.

    There are two possibilities:

    1) the longer ended cables you have bent the inside of the jack, so the shorter ended cables cannot press the contacts together firmly

    2)the shorter ended cables are shorter than the standard Neutrik/Switchcraft cable ends, and are not pressing the contacts firmly together

    The noise is the preamp momentarily cutting out.

    So, yes that's your problem. It's a problem I have had as well with a 12 year old Carvin bass. I have two EBMM basses and 4 other Carvin basses, and I use standard ended cables with neutrik or switch craft end.

    I NEVER use cables with molded ends that don't unscrew, regardless of the reputation of the manufacturer.

    Why? I think you now know exactly why. I have a friend who had some high end cables with molded ends. One of the ends was shorter, and would pop out sometimes. There was no way to fix it, other than cutting the molded end off and putting a new one on.

    Why do some makers use shorter jack ends? They feel it makes better contact because instead of the jack clip resting in the groove on the tip, it is more against the slope. However this leads to other problems when the jack end is used to do more than just transmit signal.
    2007 Stingray 5 HS Cherry Burst / Maple FB / 3 Band EQ / Ceramic Pickups
    2012 Stingray 5 H Pearl Blue / Rosewood FB / 3 Band EQ/ AlNiCo Pickup
    2012 Steve Morse Morse Blueburst / Rosewood FB
    2012 Luke III SSH Vintage Sunburst / Rosewood Neck

  2. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by tbonesullivan View Post

    2)the shorter ended cables are shorter than the standard Neutrik/Switchcraft cable ends
    Not this, as the gold one in the image is a Neutrik.
    bovinehost: Yes, I do agree with that, but if there's nothing wrong then there's nothing wrong.
    Beth: I would compare Bongo to Tommy Lee Jones. Bad a$$ and just hot in a weird way...
    cheezewiz: They should take their lace thongs off and play bass.

  3. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by tbonesullivan View Post
    Well, I hate to say it, but while you may think otherwise, your issue stems from the cables. The TIP of the cable touches a plastic piece, which in turn presses two electrical contacts together. This is what turns on the electronics of the bass.

    There are two possibilities:

    1) the longer ended cables you have bent the inside of the jack, so the shorter ended cables cannot press the contacts together firmly

    2)the shorter ended cables are shorter than the standard Neutrik/Switchcraft cable ends, and are not pressing the contacts firmly together

    The noise is the preamp momentarily cutting out.

    So, yes that's your problem. It's a problem I have had as well with a 12 year old Carvin bass. I have two EBMM basses and 4 other Carvin basses, and I use standard ended cables with neutrik or switch craft end.

    I NEVER use cables with molded ends that don't unscrew, regardless of the reputation of the manufacturer.

    Why? I think you now know exactly why. I have a friend who had some high end cables with molded ends. One of the ends was shorter, and would pop out sometimes. There was no way to fix it, other than cutting the molded end off and putting a new one on.

    Why do some makers use shorter jack ends? They feel it makes better contact because instead of the jack clip resting in the groove on the tip, it is more against the slope. However this leads to other problems when the jack end is used to do more than just transmit signal.
    I hope that the problem is in the cable, it would be the better scenario with the easiest solution.
    I'm not sure what you're saying, but there is no plastic parts touching anything. If you look at the last picture I posted, you can clearly see that the plastic part of the cable can't touch anything.
    About point 1): I've NEVER used the non golded plated jacks (which are longer) with my SRS, so I didn't bend anything inside.
    About point 2): maybe they're shorter than the standard, yes. Is there a way to verify this? Should I measure something?
    If the problem is in the jack cables, please let me know how to recognize the cables I must avoid, because this is really confusing. I've just bought these cables in a music store without even thinking about this. This is the cables I'm using:
    https://www.amazon.com/Quiklok-Vitam.../dp/B00O4933JS
    I can't understand the relation between molded ends and non standard measure of the jack. Can you please explain?
    Again, I really hope that the problem is in the cables. I'll replace them and the problem will be easily solved. But at least I want to be 100% sure about which cables to buy or the problem can happen again in the future.
    I love Red Paint.

  4. #19

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    The white cable (signal) goes to the board. The two red cables made contact as you plug in the cable (from battery/ to switch in the jack/ to the board). The black ones are all ground.
    There is (was) a tiny white arched plastic piece (guess this is what tbone means) inside the jack that switches the electronic on or off (arrow in my pic).

    I wonder why all electronic has been swapped but the "easiest" part (input jack) not.
    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-16a21588-a218-4f7e-a702-da2dbf705839-jpg
    1979 StingRay natural maple

  5. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert View Post
    The white cable (signal) goes to the board. The two red cables made contact as you plug in the cable (from battery/ to switch in the jack/ to the board). The black ones are all ground.
    There is (was) a tiny white arched plastic piece (guess this is what tbone means) inside the jack that switches the electronic on or off (arrow in my pic).

    I wonder why all electronic has been swapped but the "easiest" part (input jack) not.
    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-16a21588-a218-4f7e-a702-da2dbf705839-jpg
    Thanks for your help.
    I guess that the reason why the jack hasn't been replaced is because it's placed in a different position?
    In your picture, the output jack is mounted on the same metal plate of the controls and motherboard. In my bass, the jack is located in a different position (to the bottom) and I guess they just replaced the entire motherboard with controls. Honestly, I don't know why.
    I love Red Paint.

  6. #21

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    Ok, I'm back with the pictures.
    First of all, let me say that I somehow solved the problem. I'm not 100% sure that it will not happen anymore in the future, but for now everything seems to work with both chrome and gold plated jacks. I will get a replacement jack from EBMM in any case and replace it if the problem will appear again.
    I opened the jack and despite it was boxed and not open, I was able to reach all the internal parts from the bottom side (see pictures). That's what I just did:

    - I cleaned the jack's barrel and all the internal metal parts that make contact with the jack cables using a cotton swab and contact cleaner
    - I cleaned all my jack cables with the same contact cleaner and cloth
    - I checked all the solderings inside the jack and nothing was loose
    - I checked how both jack cables (crome and gold plated) make contact when inserted and I didn't notice any difference. Both remain firm when inserted and make contact just fine (see pictures)
    - I checked the cotton swab after cleaning and it was pretty clean, no gold or chrome dust on it
    - I carefully bent both the metal parts inside the box to make tighter contact with the jack cables
    - I carefully put everything back together making sure to not bend any wire

    Like I said, the problem disappeared and both jack cables work good, even when tilting the bass forward (which caused the problem before, but only with the gold plated cable).
    It's too early to claim victory in my experience, so please check the pictures and see if something doesn't look right. All the pictures were taken before my intervention.

    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-01-jpg
    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-02-jpg
    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-03-jpg
    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-04-jpg
    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-05-jpg
    I love Red Paint.

  7. #22

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    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-06-jpg
    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-chrome_1-jpg
    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-chrome_2-jpg
    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-gold_1-jpg
    Extremely bizarre behavior of my StingRay Special-gold_2-jpg
    I love Red Paint.

  8. #23

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    The "specials" are new designed (only one violet cable triggers the pre-amp) and looks different to the pre-specials.
    I don't own a special to compare, but looks good so far, time will tell and keep us updated.
    1979 StingRay natural maple

  9. #24

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    Of course. Thanks.
    I love Red Paint.

  10. #25

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    I have a StingRay 5 Special HH (dropped copper as well) and I believe Iíve had the same issue. I was at an audition back in March....sitting down...and I leaned over to move my EFX box to one side and I had a really loud spike of noise come thru my amp (it actually took out a woofer in my spkr cab). At the time I believed it was my signal cable (Monster...coincidentally
    ...) going bad so I stayed as still as I could to survive the audition. Unfortunately I came down with Covid*19 less than a week later and missed about 2.5 months of work. Now Iím thinking I may have similar issues as what you are describing. I ordered more signal cable but the older ones havenít done anything weird since as I have used them with my other Basses to shed with. Keep us posted on the response you get from EB!

  11. #26

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    Hi,
    sorry for the delay.
    EB sent me a brand new jack, which I didn't use yet. Since my last post, the problem didn't show up anymore, so I'm not going to do anything for now. I'm not sure it's gone for good, and if it's not I guess the new jack wouldn't solve the problem which imho is in the jack design. Some cables seem to trigger the problem more than others, while other basses work well with everything. That's why I think it's the design. I understand your fear and frustration, it's really a bummer.
    Anyway, my SRS isn't my main bass so I don't worry too much about that. I use it for recording and sometimes at rehearsals/jams, but my #1 choice is usually a Fender J or P.
    I'll keep you guys posted if anything changes.
    Bye.
    I love Red Paint.

  12. #27

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    I had the same problem when I purchased my Classic and the fault was my Mogami angled cable which worked fine with my Fenders but was intermittent with my Classic. I just used another cable as not all cable plug ends are the same and it has something to do with the deepness of the jack socket internally.

  13. #28

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    You guys know that Ernie Ball makes really great cables, right?

  14. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by bovinehost View Post
    You guys know that Ernie Ball makes really great cables, right?
    Yes, I know that. That jack design is still faulty.
    I love Red Paint.

  15. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrMatthewCross View Post
    Yes, I know that. That jack design is still faulty.
    No, the jack design is fine, and based on the industry specification for 1/4 cables. You used cables with out of spec ends, and it didn't work, end of story. The thread abundantly discusses this, and clearly pins it on the cables.
    2007 Stingray 5 HS Cherry Burst / Maple FB / 3 Band EQ / Ceramic Pickups
    2012 Stingray 5 H Pearl Blue / Rosewood FB / 3 Band EQ/ AlNiCo Pickup
    2012 Steve Morse Morse Blueburst / Rosewood FB
    2012 Luke III SSH Vintage Sunburst / Rosewood Neck

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