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Thread: JP6 Tuning Problems?

  1. #16

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    BTW the swirl on that JP IS SWEET!
    JP6 BFR CHERRY BURST LEFT HANDED
    AXIS SUPER SPORT NATURAL LEFT HANDED

  2. #17

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    Hey, any luck?
    JP6 BFR CHERRY BURST LEFT HANDED
    AXIS SUPER SPORT NATURAL LEFT HANDED

  3. #18

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roubster View Post
    I just want to mention one thing regarding tuning issues with floating trems...a lot of the times it is a matter of setting it up properly and TUNING it properly. Since there is no double locking trem, the tuning of the high E, B, and G strings is very relevant to each other. Most of the times the problem is the G string going either sharp or flat when using the trem or bending. This takes some time to get it perfect...half assed tuning will not suffice. And if you are doing crazy Satch and Vai stuff than your best bet is to go with a double locking type trem. I have been successful with having my Silo Special and 20th Silo vintage trems floating and they are quite stable and can handle some abuse...but getting a bit out of tune is inevitable after extensive trem use. I'm still experimenting actually with what works the best for me, and so far having 4 springs is working nicely. Good luck!
    Thanks for the info Roubster - not to hijack here but I've already noticed on my brand new Silo30 that the G string goes way sharp after some trem use. I've also noticed the low E goes a tad sharp too. The guitar came with 9's on it (I think - that's what it feels like) and I'm going to try 10's instead. Also, I noticed some string wrapped around each post - which according to Pete shouldn't be the case. Good help here guys - thanks!

  4. #19

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    Update - put 10's on it last night. What a difference! Talk about beefier tones. After some trem work no more G string going sharp. I do notice some string buzz in spots, however. I think that may be my lazy fretting of notes in some instances. I'm really trying to play much cleaner and more precise with this guitar. What fun!

  5. #20

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    Hummmm.. I put EB 9's on my new JP BFR and wrapped 1/2 around the post. Maybe that is why I have the tuning issue..
    http://www.youtube.com/user/Earnhardt12345

    '11 EBMM JP6 BFR Cherryburst
    '11 Gibson Ace Frehley Budokan LP
    '11 Gibson R8 LP
    '10 Gibson Trad+ LP
    '10 Warmoth
    '11 Fender Strat
    Taylor, Jackson RR24M, Dean ML
    Marshall DSL100, Vintage Modern
    Avid 11 Rack, Kemper Profiling Amp

  6. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by ACELUEK View Post
    Hummmm.. I put EB 9's on my new JP BFR and wrapped 1/2 around the post. Maybe that is why I have the tuning issue..
    No, 1/2 or 3/4 of a wrap is perfectly fine.


    Tuning stability is not rocket science but certainly can seem like a black art. Here is my very simplified way of thinking, which might help...

    First, never work with old strings. They can't stay in tune anyway.

    If one string goes sharp, it's binding somewhere (i.e. friction). Usually a little lubrication is the answer.
    If one string goes flat, it's slipping or stretching, which suggests stringing technique. Next Make sure the tuning locks are tight and the ball end is well seated in the trem block. Stretch new strings well (without tugging so hard that you damage or kink them).

    If all strings are sharp or flat after trem use, we may have to look at the knife edges and mounting posts (perhaps clean or light lube if necessary).


    As Beej (and others mentioned) a little lubrication in the nut slots can make a world of difference. I also add a tiny amount to the top of the saddles (Mineral oil, chapstick, pencil lead, lithium grease all work well). Only use the minimum amount necessary!

    But remember a simple fact - the most stable possible trem is a double locking system (like a Floyd) and even then they sometimes have problems. There is no such thing as perfect tuning stability, so don't fall into the trap of chasing unobtainable perfection.
    Last edited by DrKev; 06-28-2012 at 02:28 AM.
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  7. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrKev View Post
    No, 1/2 or 3/4 of a wrap is perfectly fine.


    Tuning stability is not rocket science but certainly can seem like a black art. Here is my very simplified way of thinking, which might help...

    First, never work with old strings. They can't stay in tune anyway.

    If one string goes sharp, it's binding somewhere (i.e. friction). Usually a little lubrication is the answer.
    If one string goes flat, it's slipping or stretching, which suggests stringing technique. Next Make sure the tuning locks are tight and the ball end is well seated in the trem block. Stretch new strings well (without tugging so hard that you damage or kink them).

    If all strings are sharp or flat after trem use, we may have to look at the knife edges and mounting posts (perhaps clean or light lube if necessary).


    As Beej (and others mentioned) a little lubrication in the nut slots can make a world of difference. I also add a tiny amount to the top of the saddles (Mineral oil, chapstick, pencil lead, lithium grease all work well). Only use the minimum amount necessary!

    But remember a simple fact - the most stable possible trem is a double locking system (like a Floyd) and even then they sometimes have problems. There is no such thing as perfect tuning stability, so don't fall into the trap of chasing unobtainable perfection.
    +1 to everything in that post.

  8. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrKev View Post
    No, 1/2 or 3/4 of a wrap is perfectly fine.


    Tuning stability is not rocket science but certainly can seem like a black art. Here is my very simplified way of thinking, which might help...

    First, never work with old strings. They can't stay in tune anyway.

    If one string goes sharp, it's binding somewhere (i.e. friction). Usually a little lubrication is the answer.
    If one string goes flat, it's slipping or stretching, which suggests stringing technique. Next Make sure the tuning locks are tight and the ball end is well seated in the trem block. Stretch new strings well (without tugging so hard that you damage or kink them).

    If all strings are sharp or flat after trem use, we may have to look at the knife edges and mounting posts (perhaps clean or light lube if necessary).


    As Beej (and others mentioned) a little lubrication in the nut slots can make a world of difference. I also add a tiny amount to the top of the saddles (Mineral oil, chapstick, pencil lead, lithium grease all work well). Only use the minimum amount necessary!

    But remember a simple fact - the most stable possible trem is a double locking system (like a Floyd) and even then they sometimes have problems. There is no such thing as perfect tuning stability, so don't fall into the trap of chasing unobtainable perfection.
    Thanks. I am aware of the contact points of the strings and tremolo. The only one I have not yet checked is the tremolo knife edges. I had already used "nut sauce" on the nut, but nothing on the saddles. I have 4 guitars with floating trems, 2 with locking nuts. This is the only one giving me problems. It does appear that the bridge does not return to same spot each time (flat).
    http://www.youtube.com/user/Earnhardt12345

    '11 EBMM JP6 BFR Cherryburst
    '11 Gibson Ace Frehley Budokan LP
    '11 Gibson R8 LP
    '10 Gibson Trad+ LP
    '10 Warmoth
    '11 Fender Strat
    Taylor, Jackson RR24M, Dean ML
    Marshall DSL100, Vintage Modern
    Avid 11 Rack, Kemper Profiling Amp

  9. #24

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    Be careful on piezo saddles, I don't know if lubricants can affect anything there. As I said before, minimum amount necessary. I often use one drop of 3-n-1 oil on a cotton bud and wipe the saddles before stringing. That's all you need.

    With super accurate tuners these days we can get hung up on tiny issues that are not a problem in 'real' use. Any of us who used a floating 6-screw strat trem knows how bad tuning stability can be. The old trick there was to pull up briefly and you'd back in tune. We didn't see that as an inconvenience, we saw it as a magic trick!
    Silhouette Special (2005 Buttercream Limited Edition)
    Cutlass HSS (2018 Roasted Special, Ivory White)

    Forum Rules and Useful MM Guitar Info

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  10. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrKev View Post
    Be careful on piezo saddles, I don't know if lubricants can affect anything there. As I said before, minimum amount necessary. I often use one drop of 3-n-1 oil on a cotton bud and wipe the saddles before stringing. That's all you need.

    With super accurate tuners these days we can get hung up on tiny issues that are not a problem in 'real' use. Any of us who used a floating 6-screw strat trem knows how bad tuning stability can be. The old trick there was to pull up briefly and you'd back in tune. We didn't see that as an inconvenience, we saw it as a magic trick!
    Pulling up is how I'm dealing with it right now.. I was just not sure if that was typical on this model. If it was not, I assumed I could get it resolved. I will give CS a call just to discuss the issue. I'm not real picky guy on most things, but constant tuning issues is one of the issues that bothers me more.

    One way to deal with it is add an extra tremolo spring and then block the tremolo to only allow divebombs.

    Thanks again for the input!
    http://www.youtube.com/user/Earnhardt12345

    '11 EBMM JP6 BFR Cherryburst
    '11 Gibson Ace Frehley Budokan LP
    '11 Gibson R8 LP
    '10 Gibson Trad+ LP
    '10 Warmoth
    '11 Fender Strat
    Taylor, Jackson RR24M, Dean ML
    Marshall DSL100, Vintage Modern
    Avid 11 Rack, Kemper Profiling Amp

  11. #26

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    I replaced the strings and stayed with EB 9's. Pulled the string through the tuner all the way before tightening. Tightened (lower) the bridge height screws so the blade is on a fresh part of the stud. Adjusted the springs so that the bridge is parallel to the top..

    I use the tremolo now and no issues with tuning.. I could see some wear on the studs and most likely the bridge was not rotating freely... Thanks for everyone's input..
    http://www.youtube.com/user/Earnhardt12345

    '11 EBMM JP6 BFR Cherryburst
    '11 Gibson Ace Frehley Budokan LP
    '11 Gibson R8 LP
    '10 Gibson Trad+ LP
    '10 Warmoth
    '11 Fender Strat
    Taylor, Jackson RR24M, Dean ML
    Marshall DSL100, Vintage Modern
    Avid 11 Rack, Kemper Profiling Amp

  12. #27

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    Ace, I'm glad to hear the issue is resolved. Hope the others are too. Sorry I didnt think of the pull straight through on the locking tuners. I overtightened mine the first time and stripped/snapped a new low e on a Cobalt set

  13. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by BCMCMoose View Post
    I overtightened mine the first time and stripped/snapped a new low e on a Cobalt set
    Holy cow, that's tight!!
    Silhouette Special (2005 Buttercream Limited Edition)
    Cutlass HSS (2018 Roasted Special, Ivory White)

    Forum Rules and Useful MM Guitar Info

    Required reading - Forum Decorum

    Ernie Ball Customer Service
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    An Irishman in Paris, guitar teacher and tech, folder of underpants, stubber of toes.

  14. #29

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    Yeah, I have always had a problem with overtightening things, (stripped many a bolt working on engines). That coupled with a good grip strength and unfamialarity with those tuners, and I waaayyy overdid it! in retrospect I am lucky i didnt damage the tuner. I tightned it so much, that as I tried to tune it, the winding sprung back off the tuner and the tunner still held the core! And of course my GC didnt have just a 46 Cobalt, so now I have a set of spares for the 1-5 strings. I have had the high e set break before, but not the low e, (more accurately in my case i guess it's the low e flat)

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