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Thread: Saddle height vs. tremolo height (JP trem)

  1. #1

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    Question Saddle height vs. tremolo height (JP trem)

    On a JP model, there are two places where you can adjust the string action:

    1. raise or lower the tremolo posts;
    2. raise or lower the 2 screws of the saddle.


    I understand that the saddles height must match the radius of the fretboard.

    My question is: what's the correct way to balance these two adjustments? The saddles should be as low as possible, or the saddles should be as high as possible?

    Also: the tremolo plate must be 100% parallel with the body, or I can have a side higher than the other?

  2. #2

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    There's a third place: the truss rod. Changing the relief in the neck will effectively raise or lower the action.

    If your guitar is already well set up and it changes, 99% of the time you just need to adjust the truss rod and you're back where you started.

  3. #3

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    My setup is OK, both string action and neck relief, it needs no further adjustment.
    My question is somewhat conceptual, I guess.

  4. #4

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    For a 1st setup:
    1) The trem height shouldnt be used to adjust action. The trem must be flush with the body.
    2) Then adjust neck relief to the point that you have a verry slight bow.
    3) The last thing to adjust action is the sadles to achieve the action you want. (If you run out of tread on the sadle height adjustment then a shim might be in order.)

    For anny later adjustements for action height, use the trus rod. If your first setup is spot on, the neck relief is the only variable and the only thing that needs to be adjusted. Never use the height of the trem itself to do a setup.

    Just my opinion....
    1977 stingray II guitar--walnut------------maple fb
    1994 stingray 4H---------natural------------rosewood fb
    1998 sterling 4H----------trans red---------birdseye maple/rw
    2006 Jp6---------------------mystic dream--birdseye maple/rw
    2010 Classic sr4----------coral red---------birdseye maple
    2013 Luke III HSS--------olive gold--------rosewood neck
    2014 stingray 4 HH-----neptune blue---flamed maple
    2014 Luke III HSS--------bodhi blue-------birdseye maple/rw

  5. #5

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    I feel I have to interject....


    The term "You Must" should never be uttered when dealing with personal preference or art. Your personal preference is yours and yours alone. So is your art... Anyone who tells you "you must" do something just might be holding you back.



    I know the OP and responses were not trying to be disrespectful... I'm just saying.... IM JUST SAYIN!
    -Spike
    @blueavngr

    2017 Valentine- Starry Night
    2015 JP15 Blueberry (63/300)

    2019 Cutlass SSS Vintage Sunburst

    "I don't sell my guitars-- they are like ex-girlfriends. You get tired with them and toss them to the side... but then, every once in a while… Damn! You really want to play with them again."

  6. #6

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    I agree with spike.
    It's all a balance thing there is a sweet spot from the combination of trem plate height, saddle height, and neck relief. Adjust what needs adjusting to accomplish it. My jp 15 bridge Is flush with the body my jp13 is a few mm higher. They both play and feel basically the same. However the jp13 was impossible to get the action properly low with just the saddle height and neck relief. The only thing I must say is that the bridge saddles should probably not be so high that they hit the bridge cover. That's why I had to raise the baseplate. Am I the world's best tech? Absolutely not. But the best setup for every guitar is slightly different. And in the end if it functions properly and feels right when you play it that's all that matters. It's important that the trem is level with the body for function and tuning stability. But the height is adjustable for a reason.

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by scooby61 View Post
    the bridge saddles should probably not be so high that they hit the bridge cover.
    I was not paying attention to that detail, very important.

    Quote Originally Posted by scooby61 View Post
    It's important that the trem is level with the body for function and tuning stability. But the height is adjustable for a reason.
    Well said, thank you.

  8. #8

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    FWIW my saddles don't follow the radius of the neck. I adjusted the saddles to individual string height as per my preference. This may be technically 'wrong', but I see no drawbacks personally and I like how it plays.

  9. #9

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    Once you have a setup you like subsequent adjustments will probably only be neck relief because of temp changes. Unless something else changes ie.. string gauge etc.

  10. #10

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    I do set mine to match the fretboard radius your method is basically the same. I purchased some radius gauges off eBay for ar I understand 10 bucks.

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