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Thread: Need help on setting trem on Albert Lee to float

  1. #1

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    Need help on setting trem on Albert Lee to float

    So I want to set my albertlee trem to float similar to how my luke III is. I removed a spring to leave me with two springs but in doing so the back of the bridge is high. Looks like this:

    Even if I tighten the trem claw screws the pitch is still way off. What am I missing here?

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2

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    The two posts on which the trem balances are height-adjustable. You need to raise them in order to raise the 'front' end of the tremolo.

    To compensate, you will likely have to lower the saddle heights in order to maintain a similar string height to the non-floating setup.

  3. #3

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    The number of springs is a feel thing, along with what gauge strings you use.
    I've got 3 springs on mine with 9's.
    It's just a matter of -BALANCE-. Expect to take 20 to 40 minutes to achieve the amount of float you want with the strings tuned to pitch. Keep adjusting the claw and re-tuning the strings until you get there.
    Also, when tuning strings, start in the middle (D & G) and work your way out, then back in....over and over. Be patient....
    Balls are Best!!

  4. #4

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    What string guages do you use? You may still need 3 springs, but back off the claw to float the bridge.

    As far as the two pivot posts, the really only need to be set to the point there is approximately the space of a business card between the bottom of the bridge plate and the surface of the guitar.
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  5. #5

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    I use 9's. I'll give it a shot. Thanks!!!

  6. #6

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    "Be patient"; wise words! I replaced the stock regular slinky strings (1-46) with extra slinky (8-38) on my Majesty a week ago and it did take about an hour for the guitar to settle down. I had to remove one tremolo spring from 3 to 2, and adjust the two tremolo spring screws that secure the little bar to which one end of the the springs attach just to get the tremolo flat again with the body of the guitar. Then it took another 20 minutes playing with the saddle heights to get the action just right.

    It really helps to be able to tune by ear; same procedure for tuning 12 string guitars; bounce all over the place until it finally settles down and is in tune.

    '16 EBMM Majesty 6 Arctic Dream

  7. #7

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    Try adding the third spring back in and put a set of hybrid 9's on. I set my silo special to float and the hybrids have made a massive difference to the feel. Better tension overall.

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  8. #8

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    I was able to set the bridge to slightly float so I could do some nice flutters on it.

    Thanks everyone.

  9. #9

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    Hi all, sorry to reopen old post. Actually solving same issue while re-setting trem. I've got 10's on my AL and I'm not able to get right pitch, saddles are at the end. I'm tuning G string to 3 half steps up with trem fully up. And I've 3 springs. I also noticed high action. And I don't see much space to lower the saddles to get the right action.
    Before I had hybrid 10's and it was much better.

    Are you using 10's with same settings on G string and lower action (like with non-floating trem)?
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  10. #10

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    As Rick C said earlier in this thread: Be patient. Changing gauges on a trem bridge throws off the entire ecosystem of your trem. Especially if you want some float. In my non professional experience this is the checklist you need to use, and some things need to be checked off more than once and in changing order, and you'll need to tune at and in between every step:

    -Change strings (duh)
    -adjust spring tension to the trem
    -examine action and change saddle height. Don't get too overzealous here, don't try to get it perfect in one go, it will keep adjusting.
    -adjust intonation on the saddles

    When you change the spring tension, it will change the action. When you adjust the saddles, they will throw off the spring tension. When you tune, it can change both of those. Usually I will go back and forth between those two steps until I am satisfied, always always tune every time you finish one of those adjustments.

    Move on to saddle intonation after that point, and if you're getting buzz at the lower frets adjust the truss rod slightly. Every movement of one piece of hardware affects all of the others. Once you do that it will change all the other stuff you worked on all over again.

    Patience, grasshopper.
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  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by CaseyBall View Post
    Changing gauges on a trem bridge throws off the entire ecosystem of your trem. ... Patience, grasshopper.
    Man, I wish I'd been able to read all of that from Casey in one shot before the first time I (naively) decided on a whim to change string gauge on a floating trem! (I also didn't know about this forum at the time.) Very useful summation.
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  12. #12

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    Hi Everyone: Just got my first EB yesterday and it's a beauty. Luke II. However, the bridge does not float like I thought it would. The seller told me to "just pop off the middle of three springs, and it should float". Is that really all there is to it, and if not, how badly can I mess this guitar up by trying it and other things to get the float I want? Thank you, and glad ya'll are here to ask.

  13. #13

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    There may be some FAQs about this, and also there are definitely youtube videos about setting the bridge to float.

    If it's still setup for .009 strings, they come from the factory with two springs angled from the outer two holes in the block to fingers 2 and 4 on the claw. But, it's not quite as simple as just popping off a spring. Once the spring is off, you still may need to adjust the claw for the proper float.
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  14. #14

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    That's basically it. Remove a spring, then you'll have to tune, and adjust the claw so the trem floats at the desired angle. It's a bit of an iterative process to get it right. You might also have to adjust the saddle height, depending.

    Btw, the Luke was initially set up so you could pull up three semitones on the G string.

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