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Thread: L3 Setup Help After Change Of String Gauge And Adding Trem Spring

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    UK
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    18

    L3 Setup Help After Change Of String Gauge And Adding Trem Spring

    I'm after a bit of setup help if possible.

    I picked up a 2nd L3 a while back - the Tumescent one, love it.

    Anyway, a couple of weeks back I had my first gig with it so swapped out the 9s for 10s, added a spring to keep the trem decked on the body (my preference) tweaked the action sightly, went and played the gig...superb - although it didn't feel as resonant as my standard L3 on the night

    Went to pick it up this morning having not touched it since and the action's dropped on every string to the point they all buzz and choke. There's as the strings are virtually on the frets there's no relief. It's been on a stand in the room and we've had a mixture of hot and humid days and a few breezy nights. The window is open most of the time.

    My guess is that this is the result of the string gauge change, adding a spring and not adjusting the truss rod?

    My question is what order should I set it up in?

    Raise the action to my preferred height and then adjust the relief?

    Or should I be adjusting the truss rod first?

    Also which way should I be adjusting? Adding or removing relief?

    Any help greatly appreciated

    David

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
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    10,249
    Relief first! Get the neck where you want it, then check everything else after.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    923
    Sounds more like a change in temp/moisture than the increased tension. Usually a string gauge change causes more relief with higher action, not less.
    2007 Stingray 5 HS Cherry Burst / Maple fretboard / 3 Band EQ / Ceramic Pickups
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    14
    Capo the strings at the first fret, Hold down the first string at the last fret. While holding down the string at both ends, check to see if there is any relief between the first string and the eighth fret... if there’s no relief then the neck is back bowed and the truss rod will need to be relieved

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    UK
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    18
    Quote Originally Posted by moozak View Post
    Capo the strings at the first fret, Hold down the first string at the last fret. While holding down the string at both ends, check to see if there is any relief between the first string and the eighth fret... if there’s no relief then the neck is back bowed and the truss rod will need to be relieved
    Yup this is indeed the case.

    To add relief it's lefty loosely when looking at the headstock from the bridge, correct?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    14
    Yes left will relieve the truss rod... I would use small increments, maybe 1/8 of a turn at a time... allow it to settle a bit and check it again and if need be adjust again.
    Last edited by moozak; 06-15-2018 at 04:55 PM.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Posts
    94
    Quote Originally Posted by moozak View Post
    Yes left will relieve the truss rod... I would use small increments, maybe 1/8 of a turn at a time... allow it to settle a bit and check it again and if need be adjust again.
    Always make sure to retune after your adjustments!
    Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they're not after you.

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