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Truss Rod Question?

This is a discussion on Truss Rod Question? within the Music Man Basses forums, part of the Gear Talk category; If you turn the truss clockwise enough is it supposed to eventually lay the strings directly on the frets? How ...

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    kmk42019 is offline Registered User Junior Member
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    Truss Rod Question?

    If you turn the truss clockwise enough is it supposed to eventually lay the strings directly on the frets? How much is too much? I want to set the action on my bass low but dont want to turn the truss rod too much.

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    Colin's Avatar
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    which way are you facing when you say clockwise? My advice is to make 1/4 turns at a time, you'll notice a difference fairly quickly.
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    Clockwise will make the fingerboard flat or can even give a backwards curve, counter-clockwise allows it to have a forward curve. Whether the strings will lay on the frets depends on how high your bridge saddles are.

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    kmk42019 is offline Registered User Junior Member
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    Ok...I lowered the G string on the bridge as low as it can go and it still doesnt even buzz...

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    kmk42019 is offline Registered User Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin View Post
    which way are you facing when you say clockwise? My advice is to make 1/4 turns at a time, you'll notice a difference fairly quickly.
    im facing the bridge to the neck...

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    marsguitars is offline Registered User Junior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmk42019 View Post
    If you turn the truss clockwise enough is it supposed to eventually lay the strings directly on the frets? How much is too much? I want to set the action on my bass low but dont want to turn the truss rod too much.
    If the strings are laying on the frets... it's too much!

    Just do it little by little and you'll soon see the difference
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    Jazzbassman23 is offline Registered User Senior Member
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    I think it would be much easier to understand if we said to turn the wheel towards the G-string or towards the E-string since cw/ccw depends on your viewing angle.
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    I think clockwise means turning the truss wheel toward the G string, counter clockwise means turning the truss wheel toward the E string.

    Not to hijack the thread ... I'm also trying to lower my strings but at a point where the truss wheel is fairly difficult to turn ... is it OK to keep going or should the truss wheel be fairly easy to turn. Normally I would think that if it requires some "elbow grease" to turn, I should stop (?)
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    Should be fairly easy. At least it is on my 'Rays.
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    Quote Originally Posted by nashman View Post
    I'm also trying to lower my strings but at a point where the truss wheel is fairly difficult to turn ... is it OK to keep going or should the truss wheel be fairly easy to turn. Normally I would think that if it requires some "elbow grease" to turn, I should stop (?)
    If it turns easily at first, but then becomes suddenly hard to turn, it sounds like you've reached the max adjustment. If you force it any further, you might snap the trussrod. Remember, "lowering the strings" using the truss rod means you are tightening the truss rod - in other words, increasing the tension in the truss rod to remove the natural bow of the neck.

    On the other hand, if it is hard to turn from the get go, you might need to spray some WD40 in there and let it sit for a while (make sure you wipe off overspray from your finish and hardware immediately).
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    Reviving an old thread:

    I just put flats on my SR5 Blue Dawn, and noticed the action has raised a little bit. I would think this was because the string tension was more than the stock strings that came with the bass. I am a newbie to doing my own adjustments, but I wanted to know:

    1. Do I need to decrease or increase the stress on the neck? I mean to raise the fretboard I would assume that I need to increase the neck tension right?
    2. So would that mean I need to turn the wheel to the right? (bass is in the position with the bridge at 6 o'clock and the wheel at 12 o'clock)
    3. What tool do I use to turn the wheel?
    Sorry for all the questions, but I love my balls and don't want to screw things up.
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    Moving the wheel to the right (with the bass in the position that you described), or toward the G-string, will tighten the truss rod. This will counter the effect of the strings pulling on the neck, moving the nut in the opposite direction that the strings are trying to pull it. So if your action is high, then this is what you want to do...raise the fretboard by lowering the nut...tightening the truss rod.

    I use an allen wrench to turn the wheel...as large as the hole will allow...too many stories about screwdrivers breaking. I've never heard of a good allen wrench breaking.
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    jasper383 is offline Registered User Junior Member
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    I question using the truss rod to adjust string height. Isn't that what the bridge saddles are for?

    I use the truss rod to set relief. Then go to string height with the saddles. Fretting at the 1st and 15th fret, I check to see that there is a little relief at the 8th fret (a credit card's thickness or a little less). Once that is established using the truss rod, then I check the string height and adjust with the saddles.

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    John's situation is due to changing the type of string that he's using, so it's probably due to a change in neck tension. In any case, I always adjust the truss rod before adjusting the bridge height because adjusting the truss rod has a big affect on the string height.
    ...Bryan

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    Quote Originally Posted by mynan View Post
    John's situation is due to changing the type of string that he's using, so it's probably due to a change in neck tension. In any case, I always adjust the truss rod before adjusting the bridge height because adjusting the truss rod has a big affect on the string height.
    I agree. I did this when changing to Flatwounds and it worked fine. I would just state that a little goes a long way when adjusting the truss rod. I like to turn it an eighth or quarter turn and then give it a little time to adjust.

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