How stiff should truss rod wheel turn?

**ZiggyDude** · 11-25-2009, 01:06 PM

I thought about this while posting to the truss rod post - but did not want to deflect the thread.

I noticed the wheel on the Bongo is very hard to turn. Much harder than the truss rod tensioners on other basses. I have bent some thick nails and currently use a tempered hole punch.

Is this normal?

**Sting** · 11-25-2009, 01:15 PM

Doesn't sound good to me.

I did a slight adjustment to my SR5 a few days ago using a small cheap screw driver. Wheel turned very easily.

**five7** · 11-25-2009, 01:53 PM

Of the 8 I have had, I had several that turned hard like you described. I would like to hear the reason for this also.

**nashman** · 11-25-2009, 02:48 PM

In my experience, the truss rod wheel can get very stiff when you are reaching adjustment limitations. If you backed the wheel off, is it easier to turn - or always stiff?

I have seen information that would suggest it's best to apply manual pressure to the neck, then turn the truss wheel - versus just turning the wheel/forcing it to do all the work - others may chime in and confirm or deny this process, but I think it makes some sense.

**Hellboy** · 11-25-2009, 03:12 PM

Originally Posted by nashman

I have seen information that would suggest it's best to apply manual pressure to the neck, then turn the truss wheel - versus just turning the wheel/forcing it to do all the work - others may chime in and confirm or deny this process, but I think it makes some sense.

Yes indeed. I forgot to mention this earlier. I don´t know how the trussrod is designed in detail on a Musicman but it´s often a good thing to release pressure on the rod when tightening in general. Some trussrods can dig into the wood when tightening if you are unlucky or tighten too much. Don´t really know how to describe this in english properly. Sorry for that. Hope you all understand. I usually place the bass standing up on the strap button on the floor and place my right foot in front of the bass by the strap button/below the bridge to stop it from sliding and then I place my left knee on the back of the neck. And then I press the neck slightly (not TOO much preasure) backwards with my left hand to release pressure from the trussrod and then I tighten the trussrod with my right hand. Again, hard to describe. But it´s a good idea to take some reassure off the trussrod when tightening. And no great adjustments. Do it alittle at a time and let everything settle for a of awhile.

//J

**ZiggyDude** · 11-25-2009, 10:12 PM

Well - now mine sounds really bad. Since I was going for less forward bow I actually had lessened the string tension. So - it was just the rod and the wood. Between this, a couple of dust spots in the paint, and an area that was not sanded between the fretboard and neck, I am wondering if I got B stock.

The wheel is large and gives a greater mechanical advantage. I would think it should be easier than other truss rods with just an allen wrench - especially since some of those basses have 5 piece necks and ebony fret borards - should they not offer more resistance?

The neck does move - but it is a fight. Is that right?

**RaginRog** · 11-25-2009, 10:35 PM

I understood you fine.

I usually lay it on my legs while sitting, then place my elbow on the body and apply very little pressure to the back of the neck with my leg/knee while I make the adjustment.

**keko** · 11-26-2009, 05:23 AM

Recently, when I was doing a first factory strings change, I've noticed to need some slight TR adjustment!

I did it next way:
Release all string tuners for a two full turns, than with steel 3 milimeter stick first release TR for a one hole movement, than stiff it back where it was, and finally stiff it for one hole more (about 5 milimeters aprox.).

Than tuned whole bass with my electronic piezo clip chromatic tuner, and now is better than was new! By the way I slightly adjusted octaves with bridge screws (flat string/12th fret).

I have now low action versatile settings without "zing" or "click" sounds!

**five7** · 11-26-2009, 07:38 AM

Got to love the design!

**spencer** · 11-26-2009, 08:02 AM

Originally Posted by ZiggyDude

Well - now mine sounds really bad. Since I was going for less forward bow I actually had lessened the string tension. So - it was just the rod and the wood. Between this, a couple of dust spots in the paint, and an area that was not sanded between the fretboard and neck, I am wondering if I got B stock.

The wheel is large and gives a greater mechanical advantage. I would think it should be easier than other truss rods with just an allen wrench - especially since some of those basses have 5 piece necks and ebony fret borards - should they not offer more resistance?

The neck does move - but it is a fight. Is that right?

it shouldn't be a fight. And I don't believe ernieball sells b stock.

I have owned. 4 ernieball basses with the new wheel and it's always given me the same experience. One might have been easier but overall I use the thickest Allen wrench I can fit in there and it seems like I'm almost going to bens the wrench but don't. This design might have more resistance than traditional ones because of the increased area of rub.

**GGK** · 11-26-2009, 08:39 AM

Have you tried to move it in the opposite direction, counterclockwise?
The first time I tried to lower the action, mine was very stiff. I turned it the opposite way, let it set for a few hours and then tried again clockwise, all good.. Make sure that you don't push your key/tool too deep into the wheel well as it may bottom out in the lower portion of the groove. I doubt EBMM sends anything out "B" related other than strings, it just probably has not been adjusted in some time, maybe never. Good Luck