Detuning trial- easy string guage selection

[dannymusic]

I have a JP6 that I haven't disturbed the factory setup at all. Why? it's perfect.
I would LOVE to try a shot at detuning WITHOUT screwing up my setup.
So, if I have perfect action w/.010-.046, what guage strings would take me down to C without changing anything?

[beej]

I think you're going to have to tweak the guitar once you change guage/tension. At the very least, the trem is going to require leveling.

No easy way around that. But if this is temporary, you might want to try blocking your trem with a piece of wood or something.

[tommyindelaware]

I think you're going to have to tweak the guitar once you change guage/tension. At the very least, the trem is going to require leveling.

No easy way around that. But if this is temporary, you might want to try blocking your trem with a piece of wood or something.

down ta c ??????? w/o a tweek ????????? wake up.........cuz yer dreamin....
guage wise........prob ebmm 11-48.......purple pack will suite ya.

[Sigmunds Couch]

Skinny Top Heavy Bottom's worked pretty well but you will defintely need to tweek the setup.

[Chad]

It's possible that you wouldn't have to tweak your setup if you get the exact same tension for all strings. Here is a scientific method I have used before:

Go to daddario.com and download their "String Tension Guide":

http://www.daddario.com/Resources/JD...sion_chart.pdf

Using the info in that guide, compute the string tension for all strings currently on your guitar. Then backwards compute what gauges would give you that same tension in C tuning. Brand to brand, tension for certain styles/gauges of strings can vary and the data in that guide is only for D'Addario strings, but it should at least get you in the ballpark.

One thing is that the extra thickness of the heavier strings will cause the action to be a VERY small (actually 1/2 the difference in the gauge between the old and new strings) amount lower compared to the prior strings.

[tommyindelaware]

woe

[Larry]

what a math problem

[PeteDuBaldo]

One thing is that the extra thickness of the heavier strings will cause the action to be a VERY small (actually 1/2 the difference in the gauge between the old and new strings) amount lower compared to the prior strings.

This also depends on how the nut is cut... if it's cut in more of a "U" than a "V" then you may not have any change at all, directly dependent upon the slope of the slot and final gauge. If it's cut in a U shape and is perfectly round at the bottom, and is wide enough for a fatter string, then the lowest edge of the string (closest to the frets) won't change, but the center of the string's diameter will be "higher" with a heavier gauge string.

[Chad]

This also depends on how the nut is cut... if it's cut in more of a "U" than a "V" then you may not have any change at all, directly dependent upon the slope of the slot and final gauge. If it's cut in a U shape and is perfectly round at the bottom, and is wide enough for a fatter string, then the lowest edge of the string (closest to the frets) won't change, but the center of the string's diameter will be "higher" with a heavier gauge string.

True, but we're talking really small amounts of difference typically.

BTW, I can do the math for the original poster if you want me to, but I need this info:

1. Scale length of your guitar. 25.5", right?
2. Are you currently in standard tuning?
3. What are the exact string gauges of all 6 of your current strings? Brand?
4. For C tuning, do you mean low to high C, F, A#, D#, G, C?
5. Would you prefer a wound or plain 3rd string?

[tommyindelaware]

it's ALOT easier to just use the truss rod.........
it's only the best one in the business....
u trussrophobic ????

[Chad]

it's ALOT easier to just use the truss rod.........
it's only the best one in the business....

Adjusting the truss rod will affect the action as well, but its primary purpose is for setting relief. Just adjusting the truss rod may get the string height good in some areas, but undesirable in other areas of the fretboard. Part of any setup is getting the interplay between action and truss rod adjustments correct. BOTH need to be adjusted if striving for an optimum setup.

[tommyindelaware]

ok.....i think i can get it.......
just don't make me do math after all these years....

[Polaris]

I tune down to C in my band.

Buy some Ernie Ball Beefy Slinky's and do the following:

Swap the unwound 'G' string (20 guage I think) for a 24 wound string - reason: an unwound string will just go completely out of tune all the time and I wouldn't recommend anything thinner than a 24 wound as the core is that little bit thicker so it won't break as easy - you could try 22 but it won't last as long, especially if you bend this string a lot.

Apart from that, I like a 56 on my lowest string as it provides a bit more tension.

You will need to file down the nut in places to compensate for the thicker strings. If you don't, be prepared to be on a tuner every two minutes!

Make sure you stretch the wound strings before playing and also try winding more onto the tuning peg - once the string is stretched this will give more tension and stay in tune easier. BB King used to do that on his Lucille - works a charm!

[Random Hero]

Like Tommy said, it's alot easier just to adjust the truss rod. If you say the factory setup is perfect, how can you know if you haven't messed with it yourself? You might be able to set it up to be *even more* perfect for your playing style!