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Gunstock oil on Axis unfinished neck?

This is a discussion on Gunstock oil on Axis unfinished neck? within the Music Man Guitars forums, part of the Gear Talk category; Hey guys, Got 2 quick questions here. 1. Where the ernie ball faq says to use gunstock oil to clean ...

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    Courageux is offline Registered User Newbie
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    Lightbulb Gunstock oil on Axis unfinished neck?

    Hey guys,
    Got 2 quick questions here.
    1. Where the ernie ball faq says to use gunstock oil to clean the unfinished neck, is it referring to the fretboard and neck, or just the back of the neck?

    2. I've notice a small insignificant line on the back of my axis neck, almost like possibly a belt buckle line, Impossible to see unless looking for it, but i can feel it ever so slightly when i slide my hand up and down he neck, Is there a method to filling or buffing this out? It's not affecting my playing in any way but i guess i'm a little protective of my baby and want to have her in tip top condition.

    Thanks

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    Colin's Avatar
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    answer to question 1. just the back.
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    Courageux is offline Registered User Newbie
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    ok,
    Thanks Colin

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    lenny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Colin
    answer to question 1. just the back.
    You mean on a rosewood board Colin?........Cause my Axis looks unfinshed on the top of the maple board as well as the back of the neck!so i would assume i could clean the front with it(oil) as well then go over the whole thing with the wax and buff..... am i wrong?
    Last edited by lenny; 07-03-2006 at 07:02 AM.
    Lonney B
    08/13/08 EB/MM "Luke" LAVA PEARL w/Piezo 1 of 2 made
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    MCBTunes's Avatar
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    about the line....i doubt it, if it were a large dent you could use a drip of water, a towel and a clothes iron to heat up the dent and let the moistureexpand the wood.
    Mike....mmmmm...............

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    Spudmurphy's Avatar
    Spudmurphy is offline Registered User Senior Member
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    re question 2 - difficult one to call without seeing it.
    However if you are intent on rubbing some Gun stock oil on the neck, you could use
    800
    1000
    1600
    2000
    grit, wet and dry papers then seal with the oil.
    If as you say that the "insignificant line" isn't that bad, then you should get most or all of it out using the wet and dry method above.
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    jplacson is offline Registered User Newbie
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    when you guys say rub with "wet" sandpaper... what do you mean by this? wet with water? or the oil?

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    Spudmurphy's Avatar
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    wet and dry paper is what the automotive industry use to get filler/body repairs to a state which will take a top coat paint repair.
    They use it wet to stop the paper clogging and scratching the surface.
    I would not use it wet, on a guitar as the wood will soak the moisture up!!

    Basically you need to start using a not too abbrasive medium on the wood and then work up to the finest medium - thats why I quote 800 being coarser than 1000 which is coarser than 1600 which is coarser than 2000.
    You can get wood specific abbrasive paper in similar grades which is used dry.

    Another form of abbrasive material are 3M scotch pads - again using a coarse grade first and finishing off with a super fine pad.

    Yet another form of abbrasive material is wire wool starting with a coarse grade and finishing with fine (0000) grade.

    Whatever abbrasive material you use, you shouldn't be making clouds of sawdust - if you are you know the abbrasive material is too coarse.
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    jplacson is offline Registered User Newbie
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    Ok... thanks! So never use the "wet" kind?

    Then just wipe the oil on the neck? Is there a special way of applying it or just lightly rub it evenly all over the neck?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jplacson
    Ok... thanks! So never use the "wet" kind?

    Then just wipe the oil on the neck? Is there a special way of applying it or just lightly rub it evenly all over the neck?
    In the factory they apply the oil with a paper towel, leave it on for 10 - 15 SECONDS
    then apply the wax in the same way.

    If you put too much wax on you will buff it to a high sheen which is not how the neck came from the factory.

    If you leave the oil on for too long it goes all "gloopy" .

    I use the wet and dry automotive paper but I use it dry.
    Black Cherry Burst Albert Lee , SSS,Trem & Piezo 2005
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    I realize there is a FAQ regarding this topic, the FAQ however, seems to not provide enough information for most of us. This comes up in the forum all the time. Would it not be a good idea for an Ernie Ball tech to redo that part of the FAQ in detail with very specific instuctions on neck care. I really don't think there needs to be as much voodoo involved in cleaning and maintaing a neck, but all the 'experts' seem to have their own minor points of difference between each other and therefore we're left to experiment and see what works and what doesn't.

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    Quote Originally Posted by blackspy
    I realize there is a FAQ regarding this topic, the FAQ however, seems to not provide enough information for most of us. This comes up in the forum all the time. Would it not be a good idea for an Ernie Ball tech to redo that part of the FAQ in detail with very specific instuctions on neck care. I really don't think there needs to be as much voodoo involved in cleaning and maintaing a neck, but all the 'experts' seem to have their own minor points of difference between each other and therefore we're left to experiment and see what works and what doesn't.
    Exactly i have 6 threads of info saved and not one is the same ....some say never use lemon oil on maple and right on the lemon oil bottle it says rosewood or ebony "not for use on maple fretboards" BUT people still insist on telling us to use lemon oil i would like to know how each of the 2 are applied and how it is removed they way the factory does it My silo needs it bad but im a little to confused right now
    Last edited by lenny; 07-03-2006 at 12:57 PM.
    Lonney B
    08/13/08 EB/MM "Luke" LAVA PEARL w/Piezo 1 of 2 made
    12/27/01 EB/MM "Albert Lee" SILVER SPARKLEw/Matching Headstock HARDTAIL (1 of 1)
    5/16/02 EB/MM "Sterling Bass" MIDNIGHT BLUE SPARKLE Single H Maple Neck
    1961 Fender Bandmaster "piggyback" Blonde and Oxblood
    1977 Fender 70w Super Reverb 4x10
    Zinky 2x12 Cab W/Vintage Blackbacks

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    Our Forumite fsmith was at the EB open day at Slo and he said that he spent quite some time watching an employee apply the finish to the necks. This is what he said...

    "Yep, it's not a big secret. It's been documented elsewhere. I was very curious because I've been doing my own necks and wanted to see if I was doing it correctly. I spent about 20 minutes at that station and actually talked to the woman who was doing the finish on the necks.


    She applied the oil to the neck wiping a coat over the entire neck and I'd say within 15 seconds she grabbed a paper towel and wiped it off. Then she applied the wax, let it sit for 10 seconds or so and with fresh paper towels wiped it clean and then with another paper towel she did a final wipe down and moved to the next neck. If you blinked she was moving on... I was surprised by how fast she was doing it and asked is that all there is to sealing the necks and she said yes that's it."


    I followed those instructions which resulted in the "factory finish".
    You may think "let's just rub that in a bit more or let's leave it on a bit longer 'cos it's bound to produce better results - no need!!

    Spudo

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    lenny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spudmurphy
    Our Forumite fsmith was at the EB open day at Slo and he said that he spent quite some time watching an employee apply the finish to the necks. This is what he said...

    "Yep, it's not a big secret. It's been documented elsewhere. I was very curious because I've been doing my own necks and wanted to see if I was doing it correctly. I spent about 20 minutes at that station and actually talked to the woman who was doing the finish on the necks.


    She applied the oil to the neck wiping a coat over the entire neck and I'd say within 15 seconds she grabbed a paper towel and wiped it off. Then she applied the wax, let it sit for 10 seconds or so and with fresh paper towels wiped it clean and then with another paper towel she did a final wipe down and moved to the next neck. If you blinked she was moving on... I was surprised by how fast she was doing it and asked is that all there is to sealing the necks and she said yes that's it."


    I followed those instructions which resulted in the "factory finish".
    You may think "let's just rub that in a bit more or let's leave it on a bit longer 'cos it's bound to produce better results - no need!!

    Spudo
    Perfect Spud Thats it thats what ill go by Thats all i wanted to know JUST how they do it at the factory and now i know .....a million thank you's!!!!
    And like i siad right on the Dunlaps Lemon oil and others i have seen NOT FOR USE ON MAPLE FRETBOARDS! there had/has to be a reason!
    Lonney B
    08/13/08 EB/MM "Luke" LAVA PEARL w/Piezo 1 of 2 made
    12/27/01 EB/MM "Albert Lee" SILVER SPARKLEw/Matching Headstock HARDTAIL (1 of 1)
    5/16/02 EB/MM "Sterling Bass" MIDNIGHT BLUE SPARKLE Single H Maple Neck
    1961 Fender Bandmaster "piggyback" Blonde and Oxblood
    1977 Fender 70w Super Reverb 4x10
    Zinky 2x12 Cab W/Vintage Blackbacks

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    Colin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lenny
    You mean on a rosewood board Colin?........?
    My apologies, I was thinking of only rosewood when I replied.
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