Question: EBMM JP7 String tension issue.

[ALDROJENA]

Hi there Folks!!! I'm kind of new into EBMM. Nonetheless I must agree with ya'll that they're the best guitars ever made. That's why I'm a little concerned about one or two things that are happening with my newest acquisition (EBMM JP7 string). The problem has to do with string tension. From the first time I played the guitar I've been having issues with bendings and action adjustment 'cause there's a lot o buzzing. I have a JP6 which I've already managed to properly set up, but with this one, that's another story. I've been working on action and I have acomplished good results with that. The only problem is that action is a little bit higher than what I'd like.
Anywho, I would be ok with a higher action, but the main concern to me is the string tension. Strings are almost unbendable, and if I manage to bend them not only would I Hurt my fingertips, but even worst than that I don´t acomplish that much of a pitch variation. I've been trying to get used to it and, I must say I have pretty strong fingers but despite that, I just can't get it to work like my JP6. My main question: IS THAT NORMAL? IS THIS GUITAR A MAINLY RYTHMIC GUITAR RATHER THAN A LEADING (shreding) GUITAR? I'm kind of doubtful 'cause I've seen Petrucci performances with both the JP6 and JP7 and he uses them for the same purposes indifferently. Well that's it in a nutshell. Please let me know your thoughts and experiences with the JP7. THANKS IN ADVANCE

ALDROJENA
2008 JP6 Fully Loaded Pearl Blue
2008 JP7 Fully Loaded Mystic Dream

[Lou]

Well, first question:

Do you have the same string gauge on the 6 and 7?

[roburado]

This is not normal. The JP7 should be able to be set-up as well as your JP6. Something is wrong somewhere in the set-up. JP plays with a fairly light touch. Your finger strength should not be an issue.

More information might help us. What string gauge are you using? can you show us pictures of the neck curvature/relief, the bridge, etc.?

This information is from the FAQ:
Q: What is the best way to adjust the action on my Music Man guitar?
A: The best and easiest way to adjust your action is to use the truss rod. To lower your action, turn the wheel clockwise. To raise your action, particularly if you have fret buzz, turn the wheel counter clockwise. It is always a good idea to make just one or two turns at a time, then play it and see if it needs more adjustment. It normally doesn't take many turns of the wheel to notice a difference.
A "turn" as defined here is inserting an adjustment tool and moving a spoke of the wheel from one side of the opening at the body at the neck to the other side.

Q: How do I set up my John Petrucci guitar?
A: When restringing, turn the tuner's holes toward the corresponding nut slots. This will keep the strings as short as possible for more stable tuning.
The next step is to check the relief in the neck by holding the lowest string down on the second fret with your fretting hand; then hold it down on the 12th fret with your right thumb and tap on the string on the middle of these two points to show how straight the neck is. It should be no more than the thickness of a thick business card, no more than that, though it can be less. If there is no relief a little pressure in the middle of the neck should take care of it. If it does not, feel free to contact us.
With the guitar tuned to pitch in the playing position and looking down the body, the top of the body, the top of the bridge should be parallel (both front to back, bass to treble side) to or slightly higher than the body with the bottom still recessed. The saddles should not come in contact with the cover and the intonation screws. If this occurs, lower the saddles and raise the bridge. After every adjustment, it is necessary to re-tune the guitar.
Factory string setting for standard tuning starts at the bass side 2/32" (0.0254m) to 5/64" (0.127m) and the treble side is 3/64" (0.0762m) to 2/32" (.254m) measured from the 12th fret to the bottom of the strings. The top of the strings should have the radius of the fretboard when you are looking at the strings in the playing position and by rotating the instrument while at the same time bringing strings into view one at a time. Remember, string height is ultimately determined by your preference and playing style, as well as the string gauge and tuning (if you you use an alternate tuning). Again, after every adjustment it is necessary to re-tune the guitar, to give you a starting reference.
Now, you are ready to play your guitar. If a string buzzes on an open string to the 5th fret and no higher, more relief is needed. If there is more buzz from the 5th to the 12th fret, the neck needs to be straighter. You should check the string height after every adjustment. If the buzzing happens throughout the neck, the string height needs to be increased.
When setting up, always consider all of the other changes that will occur with every adjustment, starting with step one, tuning up after each step you take.
For intonation, check the harmonics to the fretted note on the twelfth fret If the fretted note is sharp, you need to make the string longer by turning the intonation screw for that string (located on the tail end of the bridge) clockwise, counter-clockwise if the fretted note is flat.If you turn the screw counter-clockwise, always turn the screw clockwise afterwards. (If you don't play much above that fret, you can skip the next step). Also check the harmonics at the 19th fret after the twelfth fret is set, repeating the procedure above. Make sure that the string is coming off of the saddle straight and not at an arch.