Re-Finishing Axis SS

**kylem** · 11-05-2009, 03:12 PM

I found that I have to re-finish my Axis SS. With the help of the family dog it took a header onto a tile floor (long sad story). Metalflake black paint started jumping off this guitar daily to reveal a decent flame top. I want it trans red. Any suggestions on re-doing the headstock from metalic black to Trans red with the proper logo back in place. Factory screen prints them, I can't do that. I'm a good painter but new at painting guitars (cars/motocyles etc) but I'll work through the paint stuff, its the logo I'm worried about. And yes, its an EBMMASS, not an OLP. Can always prove that. Looking at having a sign guy cut the vinyl to use as a "screen" to lightly paint over. Anyone try that? I know I'll need my reading glasses to set it in place and remove it but will it work? Or other suggestions?

Thanks...

PS, love that guitar, need to get it back togather.

**Jack FFR1846** · 11-05-2009, 04:00 PM

Boy, this is a tough one. I've observed that the accepted practice is that once the logo is gone, it's to never come back again.... At least that's my take on it. I can understand what you want to do, though.....good luck with the refinish.

**mbgreene** · 11-05-2009, 04:21 PM

I'd keep the headstock. Black can work with anything and is a traditional headstock color. Was even used by EBMM as a headstock color for the first 2 limited editions.

It's not like you've got a trans teal or sunburst that would obviously clash or indicate immediately something was changed. Plus, it is one less thing to go wrong - that Murphy guy often rears his head when you try and get too fine.

**kylem** · 11-05-2009, 06:31 PM

You make a good point. Red and Black, not a bad deal. I'll do some testing on my theory befoer I start sanding...Let ya know how I come out.

**RobW** · 11-05-2009, 10:42 PM

ya really, I'd say if the headstock paint isn't wrecked, keep it black sparkle - it would look sweet

**Stratty316** · 11-05-2009, 11:16 PM

Good luck on the refinish job... sounds like a very cool project. I would highly recommend reading Morbid's thread about the JP6 restoration project. There is a lot of useful info that may answer your question. I know BP is very protective about the Ernie Ball logo and what it is put on. He has asked (not demanded) that several people who have done major customization (crazy repaints, adding maple tops, etc) on their guitars to remove the logo because he didn't want the work (professional or otherwise) to reflect on EBMM. (good or bad) This also tends to be a very passionate debate here on the Forum and all I will say is that it is your guitar and you have to be happy with it at the end of the day. If you must have the logo I would say don't refinish the headstock as you can always go back to the factory black finish. If you want the headstock to be trans red then just sand it down and finish it... you will always know its a Ball even with out the logo. Remember, it is about playability and the music the guitar allows you to create that is most important.

PS. We love pics so keep us in the loop.

**Jason2112** · 11-05-2009, 11:57 PM

I understand your situation, and like others, I'm not one to encourage people to fake a logo (even if the guitar itself isn't a fake). So the headstock is black sparkle, I'm assuming you're not planning to refinish the back of the guitar, just the top? Why not just add some flakes to a clear coat and shoot the back/sides to match the headstock? That way you'll have the trans red top, black sparkle back/sides, then shoot the entire body in clear to cover everything?

Another option would be to trade your neck for one with a natural headstock....

**Slav123** · 11-06-2009, 02:20 PM

I really like Jason's suggestions. Have you also considered a Trans-Black top?

Slav

**radrock** · 11-06-2009, 07:24 PM

Make the headstock matching. Post some pics please.

**kylem** · 11-09-2009, 04:36 PM

Already sanded the back down. When I got this guitar it was pretty beat up. Two big cracks on the back of the guitar. Considered a replacement body which EBMM will do if I send the old one but the new body is 1/2 the price of a new ebmm. Besides this one plays great and sounds great, just want it to look better. So looking to see how to fix the cracks in the back of this body (2 pictures). I'm planning black on the back, cherry burst with black metal flake air brushed in around the edges of the top to cover a nasty ding in edge of the top which will be filled and won't stain well. Any suggestions on fixing the cracks in the back? One pic shows the guitar with the paint off the top. Pics of the cracks on the back shown after starting sanding. All paint gone off the back now, cracks are there but don't show up in pics of the raw wood.

Also, I think I understand about the logo, if I was EBMM, I'd want my logo protected either way. Maybe that's what that little circle R is all about

**kimonostereo** · 11-09-2009, 09:18 PM

Is it cracks in the paint or cracks in the wood? If it's the wood, you'll want to get a high quality wood filler then sealer. Make sure you let it cure for a while because the filler might shrink a bit.

Once thats done, a good primer, sand, primer, sand then paint! good luck and have fun. The axis body is nice and it was the first guitar body with binding I ever worked on (finishing) although I actually got mine from Warmoth back in the mid 90's. I had to apply the binding myself... HARD WORK!

**kylem** · 11-09-2009, 09:19 PM

Just to clarify, the headstock is in nice shape and I havn't touched it, looks like I won't. Each to his own but taking your advice I read through Morbids JP6 thread and learned a lot. One thing I learned is that I'm not a fake logo guy. I'd rather match the guitar to the existing headstock. Just my opinion. I'm sure there's lots of opinions out there but that's just right for me, I have a lot of respect for the EB company and their integrity, feel like I should following their wishes about their logo. Besides, that circle R means something right

With that decision behind me that discussion hopefully is done, so on with the plans...

As for Trans Black, like the idea but wanted something brighter this time. Its been black. I may put some progress pictures out here as I go. Should be interesting to see if my goal and the outcome match. Still thinking Piezo Bridge also, it would be useful for me. Can't decide about adding the Tremelo or staying hard tail or which Piezo to use? That should spark debate

Want it to look like a stock Piezo model as far as knobs and switches. But all in all its a player, not a show piece. Its going to take time to pull all this togather but I'll get it there.

Thanks again for the ideas and help. Think this forum has me moving in a better direction already.

**kylem** · 11-09-2009, 09:35 PM

Cracks are in the wood, as they roll over the edge I can tell some run up to a 1/4 inch deep.

Binding is broken in one spot but I was told I can repair that without changing it out but I'm prepared to put new binding on if need be. I was told to take a small piece of binding and soak it in acetone and then wet the broken area also with acetone until they were both gummy, then press the scrap piece into the broken area, let it harden and then sand it out. Boy that sounds easy

I'll give it a careful try.

thanks again

kylem

picture is the body now (after carefully sanding the back). paint came off the top with a razor blade. it flew off there...

**kimonostereo** · 11-09-2009, 09:45 PM

Yep that's the right way to do it but it's not as easy as it sounds. Maybe you'll get lucky on your first try though.

Binding was the hardest part. Scraping and glueing it was very hard. I give props to all those hard workers at EBMM for doing such a good job. I still don't know how they get it so seamless.

Luckily the part where the dents/cracks are will be painted a flat color. If you do a good job, no one will be able to tell but you.