This is a discussion on I love musicman guitars but........... within the Music Man Guitars forums, part of the Gear Talk category; Originally Posted by bkrumme There's no real way for us to help here, unfortunately. What you consider a "full bend" ...
tommy in delaware
(renegade redneck hillbilly geetar player )
life 's what happens while your busy makin plans
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i think he's just screwing with you. never every have i met a luthier who suggested a radius change as a solution to fret buzz. i study with a shredder teacher, most of the guys play fairly normal guitars. if a good setup doesn't do it, the Petrucci is an alternative AND THE STERLING JP50 HAS AN EVEN FLATTER FINGERBOARD.
reradiusing the neck will nuke the resale value btw.
Guitar Tabs - Bend 2
Full bend.
So, what distance across the fretboard is a whole tone? Do you use one finger to bend? two? three? The point I'm trying to make here is there are different ways to bend a string. Depending on how you do it, the physics will change. They all can result in a whole tone up from the original fretted note. Also, depending on the original fretted note, the distance of the bend to get a whole tone difference will change.
Why not ask me what I mean instead saying I'm giving up? Besides, the bend in the Floyd tune would be more than a full bend. It goes at least 2 whole tones up.
Nevertheless, listen to what Tommy says. It's not every day you get advice from Steve Morse's tech.
BFR JP7 - Amethyst Burst - 5/29/08
JP7 - Stealth - 3/22/10
***Coming Soon - Reflex Game Changer HSHP***
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Axe-Fx II, QSC K12 (x2)
Unless there is something else wrong (ie twisted neck or something like that), the truss rod is very likely not ok for that gauge of strings. If it doesn't buzz freely, the action is likely ok. Sometimes bigger gauges need to be higher because there is more mass so it will buzz a bit when vibrating freely. You are describing a fretting out when bending. Raising the action would probably fix this to some degree, but if you like the action where it is and it doesn't buzz when not bending, AND it didn't with 9s, I can't imagine that this is a problem that cannot be fixed by tweaking the trus rod.
I feel like a broken record, but I'm just not buying this radius argument that luthier made.
Kevin Wale
2010 Barolo JPX7 S/N F27478 DOB 9/30/10
2008 Amethest Burst BFR JP6 S/N G42261 DOB 4-21-08
2002 Desert Gold JP7 with piezo and matching headstock STOLEN S/N F07214(thought by police to be in Jaurez)
2007 Desert Gold JP7 with piezo and matching headstock STOLEN S/N F19939(sold by Guitar Center... now in Europe and not coming home)
www.reverbnation.com/bipolarecho
www.myspace.com/bipolarecho
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJ8BBQDQO3k
I started my reply and had to finish it later so I didn't even see Tommy's post until now... SO...
allow me to reemphasise the above quote... since you seem unwilling to hear what we have to say about it not being the radius and that you need to adjust things.... do listen to him. lol
Kevin Wale
2010 Barolo JPX7 S/N F27478 DOB 9/30/10
2008 Amethest Burst BFR JP6 S/N G42261 DOB 4-21-08
2002 Desert Gold JP7 with piezo and matching headstock STOLEN S/N F07214(thought by police to be in Jaurez)
2007 Desert Gold JP7 with piezo and matching headstock STOLEN S/N F19939(sold by Guitar Center... now in Europe and not coming home)
www.reverbnation.com/bipolarecho
www.myspace.com/bipolarecho
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJ8BBQDQO3k
22 replies in. I will say what was said in post #7 contact customer service for assistance. They are best equipped to help you actually resolve your issue. If you're into the discussion/conversation/speculation, then as you were.
My opinion:
Go to another 'luthier' for a second opinion. Just give him the guitar without explaining what you think and what issues you have. Ask what is it that he thinks about the instrument and what is it that he suggests and then depending on his 'conclusion'/'treatment' you could share your problem. I am not coaching you neither underestimating your intelligence but you 'never know until you find out'
My feeling is that the saddles of your bridge have never been adjusted properly to the radius of your neck and your 'thinner' strings weren't buzzing because of the wire's diameter so in a 'full' bend the string doesn't reach a different fret to create buzzing. Now you went to thicker strings and you encounter the problem.
1) I'd see whether all my frets are even on the fretboard (on my SUB1 they weren't) and have a fret job done (it runs between $20-$30) and includes set-up (at least around Chicago)
2) I'd check to see what my neck looks like (whether it's adjusted properly)
3) I'd see what my bridge saddles look like (whether they 'follow' the neck radius)
After that your luthier could jump to conclusions. Filing the fretboard is ridiculous! You are better off selling it and buying a different model EBMM.
Question: When you bend the string ('full' bend or 'half') do you encounter the tone of your guitar to be sounding like an octave (or a major interval) higher or it's just buzzing without sound? On which strings/frets do you encounter that? That would explain a lot! Good luck and I hope that helps. If it didn't - EBMM Customer Service But do not rush with modifications suggested by a World Unknown Luthiers. Best of luck!
sell the guitar.
how come Ive been in this business for 43 years and never heard this until this post. You know the saying "What do you call the guy who came in last9n class in med school? Doctor!" With techs it is a self annointed title...there is no school and the average does more harm than good......Please dont get me wrong there are some very good techs out there but how do you know?
Two requests, please
Please contact customer service prior to posting instrument issues
Please don't PM me
Thanks
Please dont add me as a friend on facebook....my life is an open book here as it is.
Jim,
I have an 04 Sub 1 and play "Can't Stop" by Red Hot Chili Peppers and in the lead, there's a full 2 tone bend (around the 12th fret....maybe 14th...16....I don't have my guitar at work) and I don't get buzzing. I will say that I love to figure out stuff (I'm an engineer) and do my own setups. Part of my requirement when doing the setup is that there can't be buzz in anything I play. I also am currently running 10's on the guitar.
Another thing to mention is that you can get buzzing when playing the guitar acoustically that will not come through an amp. If you want low action, you have to keep that in mind.
03/20/08 Natural Axis (sold to bmac)
8/17/04 EBMM Axis SS MM90 trans blue (spaceball 3000)
7/29/04 EBMM Sub1 X11376 oil/wax neck, gloss black body, faux binding, HSS w/5 way and silent circuit
07 Albert Lee SSS Black Cherry Burst
buncha non-ebmm guitars
keep in mind that you are talking about four pieces of wood two pots one switch a trem along with springs two pickups and some wire.....BP
Let me apologize in advance if your last post wasn't meant to be sarcastic.
Dude, all of us here are just trying to help you. We are providing advice to you based on our years of personal and collective experience. You can choose to trust this "luthier", who stands to gain financially by convincing you to alter your guitar's radius, or you can choose to listen to us, who stand to gain nothing with whatever you decide to do.
If you want to ruin your guitar, feel free. Just remember when you are paying the bill, we all told you that it was something that could have been fixed for under $60.
I would listen to tommyindelaware as said before. He is Steve mores's guitar tech. Need I say more. Better yet, listen to pops and sell it. I might buy it from you.![]()
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