Stingray 4 tuned BEAD?

[BullHorn]

Has anyone here tried doing that? I have a beautiful and extraordinary 3.8kg Transparent Teal Stingray 4H which I love. A few days ago I had the opportunity to trade it for a Stingray 5 for an extra $200, but I don't think it can be as amazing as mine. The 5-er weighs 4.5kg and is the standard sunburst finish that doesn't really get me excited anymore.

So I thought I could save some money and keep my awesome bass by converting it to BEAD.

Can this be done without having to adjust/file the nut? What strings are recommended for such tuning?

 

[tbonesullivan]

Do the SR4 and SR5 use the same preamp? If the controls are optimized for a standard tuned 4 string bass, you might not get optimal sound from an SR4. I have an SR4 and an SR5, and they are definitely different beasts altogether.

The 2008 redesign made them closer, but they are still not the same in terms of sound and feel.

 

[BullHorn]

Oh, I completely forgot about the pre-amp and the frequencies it affects. It will probably not sound 'right' this way.

Issue solved, I guess. I have 2 Precisions, I'll just try to convert one of those to BEAD.

 

[tbonesullivan]

well, I would wait for someone "In the know" to chime in. For all I know, they are using the same preamp. I honestly have no idea.

 

[Golem]

`
Just about ANY bass 4 can be strung BEAD ... no reason why
MM should be an exception. All of my 4's [various brands] are
tuned DGCF, except for those few that are CFBbEb ... which is
damnt close to BEAD [1 semitone up]. However, if you use a
BEADG string set [minus the G] you WILL hafta re-do the nut,
unless mebbe you use a 110 set [which is a rare-ish 'in limbo'
guage, not specifically 4 or 5-string].

Anywho, I've never had any 'frequency problems' with active
or passive 4-strings playing my low and more lower tunings.
Sounds like urban myth to me ....


`

 

[Golem]

well, I would wait for someone "In the know" to chime in. For all
I know, they are using the same preamp. I honestly have no idea.

Not claiming knowledge of proprietary EBMM design stuff, but ...
can you show me one, just one, preamp, from any maker, who
specs their products as differentiated into 4-string and 5-string
models or versions ? I think thaz the whole answer right there.


`

 

[supadave]

I currently tune my Stingray 4 in drop B. Its low as all hell. Its dirty and grumpy and it moves walls. I love it and would struggle to go back to standard tuning.
I go into a compressor (which I've raved about in here before now) and then a fuzz box dialled way back so that it adds some power and breaks up the signal a little without getting all snotty and spitting itself everywhere.
I wind my preamp to about 70percent and go through a big 2 x 15 bin.
All up my rig cost me $900 and its better than any SWR or GK rig I've ever spent thousands on. In fact I sold my SWR rig with a goliath 4 x 10 bin for this set up and put 2k in the bank.
Back to the tuning. I did nothing to my intonation or action or nut. There was absolutely no need to. Theres a tiny bit of string rattle against the fretboard at fret 3 and 4 on the E and A strings when its played wihout an amp but, plugged in, its perfect. I'm using EB medium gauge coated strings .50/.70/.85/.105

AND MY BAND IS SUPPORTING THE ATOMIC BITCHWAX IN AUCKLAND TONIGHT!!!!!!!! HAIL THE DOOMSDAY FESTIVAL!!!!!

 

[jlepre]

Please call EBMM Customer Service with product questions. This has been said by Sterling himself, that us knuckleheads should know when to keep our mouths shut, and leave it to the pros.

 

[BullHorn]

I'm using EB medium gauge coated strings .50/.70/.85/.105

How does drop tuning work with nearly-standard strings? It would seem like they'd get extremely floppy?..

 

[supadave]

How does drop tuning work with nearly-standard strings? It would seem like they'd get extremely floppy?..

Theres a little bit of 'looseness' but its not out of control or difficult to deal with. Its definitely not 'extremely floppy'. I tune them to Eflat for a week then drop them over two or three days. Once set , they never go out of tune either! I know people are buying 5 string sets and throwing the lightest string away. I could do that but I want to play normal strings rather than something really haevy and I didn't want to alter the nut then find I had to replace it completely to go back to normal strings again. Just experiment to find what works. If you're not playing something a little heavy (musically) then my plan may not be what you're after. I'm going for the dirty, growling fat-as hell sound. Oh I also suffer chronic flatulence when faced with 5 strings so just can't go there.

 

[Golem]

`

I just string up a set and tune up to DGCF.
No magik, no special tricks. Acoarst, these
are flatwounds, so maybe in the real [RW]
world, special procedures are needed ?

`

 

[Resolute]

I run all my EBMM basses B-E-A-D.
I played 5'ers for several years, but decided with my play style, to try the BEAD stringing. Never went back.
I generally run a lighter gauge string on my Rays', and I have flats on my Bongo.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Oh, I completely forgot about the pre-amp and the frequencies it affects. It will probably not sound 'right' this way.

You don't say whether your pre-amp is a 2EQ or 3EQ. Either way it shouldn't be a problem. The 2EQ is presently used for the Classic SR5 and the 3EQ is the same as originially used for the earlier SR5 Basses.

 

[dukeplaysbass]

I've strung several Rays BEAD - maybe 15? Some sound better than others (just like every other type of bass) but it works just fine. On occasion, you will need widen the nut slots, usually just the B string, but sometimes the E as well. As long as you don't cut the slot any deeper, or make it insanely wider, you should be able to switch back and forth without issue.

I use three BEAD Rays exclusively for one of my bands (usually about 30 shows per year) and have tried a variety of string brands. I prefer a 130 B. The extra stiffness helps take away some of the floppiness that you can get with a 34" scale BEAD. But if you like the 130, look for one that has a tapered core since it gets a little difficult to get a non-taper core string through the bridge at the very end...

 

[Golem]

....... if you like the 130, look for one that has a tapered core
since it gets a little difficult to get a non-taper core string through
the bridge at the very end...

Most strings have more than enuf scale length to allow or require
a tubular spacer down by the brass ball. Allow ? Well, the goal is
to slip the spacer over the fat stuff [nearest the ball] so you don't
hafta try ramming that fat stuff thru the hole in the bridge. As to
Require ??? A spacer may be NEEDED, if the scale length of the B
string causes the main winding to wrap onto the tuner peg, which
is something to avoid, and "Leo-type" basses [that includes MMs]
tend to locate the first tuning peg too close to the nut, which then
causes the main winding to wrap onto the peg.

BTW, it's OK to carefully use a pair of pliars to reshape/compress
the fat stuff near the brass ball. Often, the overall shape is not
very round. Massaging that bulk into something closer to round
will sometimes allow it to pass thru the bridge hole.


`

 

[Calaveras]

Has anyone here tried doing that? I have a beautiful and extraordinary 3.8kg Transparent Teal Stingray 4H which I love. A few days ago I had the opportunity to trade it for a Stingray 5 for an extra $200, but I don't think it can be as amazing as mine. The 5-er weighs 4.5kg and is the standard sunburst finish that doesn't really get me excited anymore.

So I thought I could save some money and keep my awesome bass by converting it to BEAD.

Can this be done without having to adjust/file the nut? What strings are recommended for such tuning?

I tune all my basses C-F-Bb-Eb.
I actually go the opposite direction than most and use medium light strings, as l like a deliberately wobbly/rattly C and D.
You can also go for a stiffer string as well.
The only change you MUST make is adjusting the intonation.
After that you also might need to loosen the truss rod depending on your string choice.

 

[SugarMaple]

Does anybody have a specific set of strings to recommend for switching a Stingray 4 to BEAD. I remember trying the low 4 from a set of Ernie Ball .130 5 String set and not having luck getting that .130 through the bridge hole. It's been a while since I tried that. I normally use Ernie Ball nickels on my basses. Should I try a set with .125, or would the B be too floppy?

If anybody has a set they have used for BEAD on a Stingray, I'd love a recommendation. Again, nickel rounds and EB would be my first choices.

I currently have a bass from another manufacturer set up as a BEAD and am using it a lot in my new band. I have an old Stingray that would be SO much better, if I can get it set up that way. Thanks!

 

[Calaveras]

Well I guess it's me up again.
Basically you have to file the nut to be wider, in order to fit a .130.
If you have a recent bass that features the EBMM compensated nut, and would rather not monkey with the EBMM compensated nut, you have to get a slimmer string set. A heavy set, like 110's might fit the bill.
I'm using Super Slinky 100's to play in C. So Power Slinky 110s for B are totally possible.
Pretty sure you can dig around and find another brand with a 115 set

 

[vates]

A friend of mine tunes his pre-eb fretless in BEAD and it sounds fantastic.

 

[delberthot]

I'm probably answering the thread from 2012 than the recent posts but I had an amazing Pearl Blue SR5 from 2002. A couple of years ago I had a shoulder problem which the bass was exacerbating so decided that I wanted something lighter but that sounded like my SR5. Plus I have carpal tunnel & trigger finger, which although causes me trouble from time to time, I've got it under control after physio and exercises I do at home.

Since my SR5 had the ceramic pickup, and after trying many Stingrays and not liking them, I decided to go for a Sterling. It doesn't sound like the SR5 100% but it's close enough

I fitted a set of Hipshot Ultralight HB6 tuners and an extender with the double stop on the E string. I don't need a 5 string all of the time so this was a great compromise and I've been able to incorporate changing between the 3 tunings during songs.

I was using D'addrio EXL 165 nickel plated strings but it was way too floppy when I dropped the E down to B so I bought a pile of 110 strings for a good price. When I played flats I was using Chromes. I bought those separately as well to get the gauge as closely tensioned as I could which was 45, 60, 80, 110 so I knew the 110 on the E would work.

I've been through over 130 basses in the 30 years I've been playing and this is the happiest I've been with my bass and my sound. I haven't been tempted by anything else since I got this, although I am keeping an eye out for word of a 25th anniversary Sterling.