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Tanax

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May 22, 2010
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553
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Stockholm, Sweden
Hi!

With the removal of the JP Baritone models/variants, which one of the JP models is best suited for lower tunings like drop C or even as far down as drop A?

Thanks in advance :)
 

johnnyboogie

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Jan 27, 2017
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Despite not being long-scale guitars, the 25.5" scale length guitars would allow for a 2 whole-step down-tuning (maybe more, not sure). You might need to install an extra spring in order to balance the tension of the larger-gauge strings, but it should be do-able. You could setup your JP7 a whole-step lower, in order to achieve the A tuning.
 
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ohbugger

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Nov 16, 2014
Messages
113
I keep my JPXI in D standard (one whole step down) and JP12 in C standard (two whole steps down). For D standard I'm running 10 gauge strings; C standard 11 gauge. Still even running only two tremolo springs in both. I just adjusted the claw screws appropriately to keep the bridge level.

The strings definitely have more of an elastic feel than they did in standard turning with a set of 9's, so my setup may not be comfortable for everybody. I don't hit the strings hard, and bends are definitely easier on the fingers this way!

On point with your question, I believe any of the current JP models would behave as such, all being 25.5 inch scale.
 
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Ishmun

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Dec 26, 2002
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85
Location
Sydney
I keep my JP6 in C standard tuning with 12-60 strings on it - works a treat, no issues at all
 

damo_512

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Sep 30, 2015
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Sydney, Australia
How do you guys go with the nut for the lower tunings? I generally play in standard with 9-46's but want to do some recording in C standard with some thicker gauge strings but I dont want to affect the nut on my JP15.
 

ohbugger

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Nov 16, 2014
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113
I did have to sand the slots a bit wider to accommodate the thicker strings.
 

Tanax

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May 22, 2010
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553
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Stockholm, Sweden
Alright so I should be fairly safe then to tune my JP6 down to even C but should probably change strings to thicker ones (I got the standard strings that came with it, I think that's 9s) to at least 10s?

As I understood it I should probably also install a third spring? How do I do that and what's the reason for it? :)

Thank you all for your replies!
 

johnnyboogie

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Jan 27, 2017
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Location
ATHENS, HELLAS
Setting up the guitar with a thicker gauge string-set, thus higher tension, will cause the bridge to elevate. The extra spring will pull the bridge back. Of course, you will need to do all the fine-tuning to bring the bridge into its original position and in perfect alignment with the body.

PS. For the 2 whole-steps down-tuning you should go with Power Slinkies, Beefy Slinkies or Not-Even Slinkies. Beefy and Not-Even are recommended.
 
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Mordimer

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Nov 25, 2010
Messages
207
Location
Nysa, Poland
I tune my JP7 to drop G#. I use Slinky Cobalt 10-62. The only problem I got was the 7th string intonation – to set it properly I had to move the saddle far back what caused another problem - the "break angle" reached ~90°. In this situation the pressure of the string on the saddle was to small and the string was buzzing (on saddle). I had to file the saddle a little so that the string goes from bridge to the saddle at <90° angle. In fact I just did what EBMM guys did when redesigning saddles few years ago:

attachment.php

s-l1600_10_ac84bf69-0a4b-4e44-87a2-3f8db4ebe637_grande.jpg
 
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