• Ernie Ball
  • MusicMan
  • Sterling by MusicMan

danny-79

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
2,507
Location
England U.K
Just a quick question regarding the compensated nut.
In short what size string gauge are they cut for ?
I know that from factory they are shipped with a 100-45 gauge set.
I currently use a 105-50 set with no problems.

What is the maximum gauge possible to use before the files need to come out ? (Not that I plan on messing with it just curious to know as never tried anything heavier than stated)
My second Stingray with a standard nut handles the BEAD 130-65 set
 

96brigadier

Active member
Joined
Apr 25, 2015
Messages
26
Location
Canada
Just a quick question regarding the compensated nut.
In short what size string gauge are they cut for ?
I know that from factory they are shipped with a 100-45 gauge set.
I currently use a 105-50 set with no problems.

What is the maximum gauge possible to use before the files need to come out ? (Not that I plan on messing with it just curious to know as never tried anything heavier than stated)
My second Stingray with a standard nut handles the BEAD 130-65 set

Looking for the same answer, but in the mean time I've put a 110 E string on mine for drop d and it seems to be fine.
 

danny-79

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
2,507
Location
England U.K
Looking for the same answer, but in the mean time I've put a 110 E string on mine for drop d and it seems to be fine.

Thanks for reply. That’s the conclusion I’m coming to. It’s currently got a 110-55 gauge set on it for D standard so I’m guessing not much more than that. Just interested to hear others experiences
 

danny-79

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
2,507
Location
England U.K
Thought I’d dig this up rather than start anew (and couldn’t find what I was looking for in the faq)
So the question is... when was the compensated nut first introduced and is a standard nut even an opinion on anything EBMM anymore?
I’ve got two StingRays with very close birthdays in 2005 one is standard one is compensated. (Guessing that’s a clue to the change over area)
 

PeteDuBaldo

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2004
Messages
10,155
Location
Central Connecticut (Manchester) USA
Thought I’d dig this up rather than start anew (and couldn’t find what I was looking for in the faq)
So the question is... when was the compensated nut first introduced and is a standard nut even an opinion on anything EBMM anymore?
I’ve got two StingRays with very close birthdays in 2005 one is standard one is compensated. (Guessing that’s a clue to the change over area)

The compensated nut made its first appearance on the Bongo Bass in 2003ish.
It arrived on other instruments with the 2005 Limited Edition Buttercream package.
The compensated nut is found on all of the guitars (without locking nuts) and the fretted basses.

The StingRay Classic basses still come with a non-compensated nut
 
Last edited:

danny-79

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
2,507
Location
England U.K
The compensated nut made its first appearance on the Bongo Bass in 2003ish.
It arrived on other instruments with the 2005 Limited Edition Buttercream package.
The compensated nut is found on all of the guitars (without locking nuts) and the fretted basses.

The StingRay Classic basses still come with a non-compensated nut

Thank you ! That clears it up for me. It did have me guessing why both were 2005.
Excellent, cheers !
 

danny-79

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
2,507
Location
England U.K
I've got several fretless that came with it, as well. Folks might argue it's not strictly needed on a fretless, but i figured they did it to standardize their builds.

I’m pretty sure thinking about it this has been brought up before around the forum (compensated nuts on a FL)
Intonation still needs to be right on one so don’t see why they wouldn’t have them
 

Golem

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
2,214
Location
My Place
Hey Michael.. Any pics. Never seen it before.

Well OK, here's one of mine:

SR4 HP FL 0142 WM.jpg SR4 HP FL 0146 WM.jpg SR4 HP FL 0148 WM.jpg

IIRC it's about 5 yr old. In case you
choose to look it up, it came to me
[used] with a white PG. This is the
youngest of my FLs. All [or most?]
of the others have an ordinary nut.

I play nearly all FL and I can assure
you the compensated nut is really
pointless. Gotta believe it's just to
standardize production. Any subtle
correction it provides is of far less
influence on pitch than tiny, nearly
invisible, little "rocking" shifts of
finger pressure on the string.

FL intonation does NOT need to be
"right on". Most notes sound better
when "well tempered". The notes
on fretted necks are not all "right
on" either, despite fancy nuts and
careful set-ups.
 
Last edited:

Rod Trussbroken

Moderator
Joined
Jul 25, 2002
Messages
5,130
Location
Bris Vegas. AUSTRALIA.
Well OK, here's one of mine:

View attachment 35715 View attachment 35716 View attachment 35717

IIRC it's about 5 yr old. In case you
choose to look it up, it came to me
[used] with a white PG. This is the
youngest of my FLs. All [or most?]
of the others have an ordinary nut.

I play nearly all FL and I can assure
you the compensated nut is really
pointless. Gotta believe it's just to
standardize production. Any subtle
correction it provides is of far less
influence on pitch than tiny, nearly
invisible, little "rocking" shifts of
finger pressure on the string.

FL intonation does NOT need to be
"right on". Most notes sound better
when "well tempered". The notes
on fretted necks are not all "right
on" either, despite fancy nuts and
careful set-ups.

Thanks Golem. Never seen it before!
 

danny-79

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
2,507
Location
England U.K
Ok so it’s looking like the compensated nut is coming as standard on newer models ?

(Michele Murphy, nice looking Bongo’s. The six string FL. ........ scary looking finger board)
 

Golem

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
2,214
Location
My Place
Golem, what’s going on with the tuner on
the D string ?
Look at the OTHER end of the bass. You
will see a pair of little black rubber "feet"
that allow leaning the bass against a wall
without it tipping over sideways. Soooo ...
there's also a rubber bumper on the tuner
peg so the hardware doesn't mark up the
wall, plus that bit more friction adds even
more resistance against tipping sideways.

Acoarst, that adds an extra step to string
changes, something I can easily tolerate
every 15 to 20 years, give or take ;-)

If you're viewing the image with the "+"
option, you'll see the rear strap button is
now on one of the bridge-plate screws.

============================

The white "fuzzy rope" is in its storage
location. It can be woven into the strings
for extra damping. The blue damper is
always in play.

If your next question is about the fifth
knob [well, really the second knob ... ]
that's for the piezo PUs. If you read my
sig, you'll find eight basses with the "p"
in their model designation :)
 
Last edited:

danny-79

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 6, 2009
Messages
2,507
Location
England U.K
Golem, how are the rubber feet attached to the body ? Never seen that done before! Or the strap button mod ! That’s interesting to say the least :cool:
 

Golem

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 30, 2005
Messages
2,214
Location
My Place
Golem, how are the rubber feet attached to
the body ? Never seen that done before! Or
the strap button mod ! That’s interesting to
say the least :cool:

First a warning:

Any reader squeamish about
offenses to original-ness can
preserve their well-being by
NOT reading any further.

OK now. The rubber feet are
attached by the usual means
of attaching stuff to a piece
of wood ... IOW, screwed on.

To retain the original strap
button location would need
taller feet, or else the strap
button hits the floor first :-(

Since you didn't ask ... yet:

The foot or bumper on the
tuner peg is secured by a
skinny screw which shares
the same hole that the end
of the string goes into. The
leader's windings provide
enuf grip for the screw.

++++++++++++++++++++

If you want to have rubber
feet but worry about resale
value, here's the dope. Just
replace the feet with strap
buttons ... and neatly plug
the factory original hole. In
my experience, no one gets
freaked out over dual strap
buttons but the rubber feet
are seen as blasphemy. And
acoarst you should replace
the original bridge screw so
you don't end up with three
rear straps buttons !
 
Last edited:
Top Bottom