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Jaspergretsch

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Jul 5, 2014
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30
I acquired a used Sterling Fretless from 2001 a few months back and I noticed the other day that the G is completely dead when using the piezo. I'm guessing that the saddle is bad.

Is this something customer service can help with or because the bass is so old and the piezo option isn't available at this point, am I out of luck?
 

Bert

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Oct 16, 2011
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434
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(FenderOli) Hessen Germany
I acquired a used Sterling Fretless from 2001 a few months back and I noticed the other day that the G is completely dead when using the piezo. I'm guessing that the saddle is bad.

Is this something customer service can help with or because the bass is so old and the piezo option isn't available at this point, am I out of luck?

First thing I would do is contact them, they will surely help you.
Have you already removed the back plate?
I don't know how a piezo exactly works.
B29.jpg
Contact | Ernie Ball
 

Edmang

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Mar 13, 2016
Messages
453
Opening the back allows you to adjust the volume of the individual strings. See attached diagram. Try adjusting the pot for the string and see if that helps
 

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Jaspergretsch

Active member
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
30
Opening the back allows you to adjust the volume of the individual strings. See attached diagram. Try adjusting the pot for the string and see if that helps


You know what, that's why I originally opened it. But didn't see how I could turn it. I guess a screw driver?
 

Golem

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Is your G-saddle verrrry low ... and maybe
pretty far forward ? This can invoke a design
flaw in most Fishman bridges ... shearing off
the tiny wire when adjusting intonation.

Loosen the G-string, lift the saddle and check
that connection. If broken, replace the saddle
at any very COMPETENT shop. It's a standard
Fishman bridge. No special advantage sending
an out-of-warranty ax to SLO, unless acoarst
you don't know where else to find a competent
repair shop !

-----------------------------------------------------

Due to the risk in the design, I never set the
saddle really low, regardless of action height
preferences. Also I set it at the forward limit
OF THE SLOT beneath it
cuz it's the G-string.
Whatever the resulting intonation, que sera
sera
.... which is no problem for FL. If yours
is fretted be aware of the risk and find a safe
compromise intonation setting [per that tiny
wire] and then never fuss with it again. It's
wise to follow this precautionary advice even
if your dead saddle is due to something else.
It's just how one plays safe with a Fishman
piezo bridge regardless of the brand of bass.
 
Last edited:

Paco Maraca

Active member
Joined
Mar 5, 2014
Messages
39
Location
Germany
I acquired a used Sterling Fretless from 2001 a few months back and I noticed the other day that the G is completely dead when using the piezo. I'm guessing that the saddle is bad.

Is this something customer service can help with or because the bass is so old and the piezo option isn't available at this point, am I out of luck?
Do you use flatwounds? If the silk at the end of the string touches the saddle it will kill the piezo tone. In that case try to remove a bit of the silk, this helped me restoring my E-string after changing to TI flats (after trying unsuccessfully to increase the string volume).

Gesendet von meinem SGP511 mit Tapatalk
 

Jaspergretsch

Active member
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
30
Do you use flatwounds? If the silk at the end of the string touches the saddle it will kill the piezo tone. In that case try to remove a bit of the silk, this helped me restoring my E-string after changing to TI flats (after trying unsuccessfully to increase the string volume).

Gesendet von meinem SGP511 mit Tapatalk


No I'm good there, but the saddle doesn't even make noise when you tap on it.
 

Jaspergretsch

Active member
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
30
Is your G-saddle verrrry low ... and maybe
pretty far forward ? This can invoke a design
flaw in most Fishman bridges ... shearing off
the tiny wire when adjusting intonation.

Loosen the G-string, lift the saddle and check
that connection. If broken, replace the saddle
at any very COMPETENT shop. It's a standard
Fishman bridge. No special advantage sending
an out-of-warranty ax to SLO, unless acoarst
you don't know where else to find a competent
repair shop !

-----------------------------------------------------

Due to the risk in the design, I never set the
saddle really low, regardless of action height
preferences. Also I set it at the forward limit
OF THE SLOT beneath it
cuz it's the G-string.
Whatever the resulting intonation, que sera
sera
.... which is no problem for FL. If yours
is fretted be aware of the risk and find a safe
compromise intonation setting [per that tiny
wire] and then never fuss with it again. It's
wise to follow this precautionary advice even
if your dead saddle is due to something else.
It's just how one plays safe with a Fishman
piezo bridge regardless of the brand of bass.


If the connection is broken, it can't be fixed? Can individual saddles be bought easily?
 

Golem

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
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If the connection is broken, it can't be fixed?
Can individual saddles be bought easily?

The wire usually lets go right at the saddle,
so you cannot re-attach it. It's a standard
Fishman part. You replace the whole saddle.

Cannot recall the brand of bass, but I had
such a repair covered by warranty even tho
it was my own actions that broke the wire.

I pointed out that it's design flaw, that you
should not be able to shear off the wire just
by doing normal routine adjustments.

We don't know that you have a broken wire
until you take a look, which takes 2 minutes.
Loose the string, gently lift the saddle. Only
reason for "gently" is just in case the wire is
fully intact and the problem is elsewhere.
 
Last edited:

Jaspergretsch

Active member
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
30
The wire usually lets go right at the saddle,
so you cannot re-attach it. It's a standard
Fishman part. You replace the whole saddle.

Caannot recall the brand of bass but I had
such a repair covered by warranty even tho
it was my own actions that broke the wire.

I pointed out that it's design flaw, that you
should not be able to shear of the wire just
by doing normal routine adjustments.

We don't know that you have a broken wire
until you take a look, which takes 2 minutes.
Loose the string, gently lift the saddle. Only
reason for "gently" is just in case the wire is
fully intact and the problem is elsewhere.

I'll do that tonight and report back.

I don't use the Piezo usually, so I don't really miss it, but I'd still like to get it fixed.
 

Golem

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Messages
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Location
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The wire looks kinda squashed though.

Agreed. Hard to judge from the picture whether
it is functionally intact.

If you access the trim pots and adjust the G-pot
with the volume cranked, you should get a sound
similar to a dirty volume pot. If you get silence,
tweak one of the others,to confirm that you get
the noise from the intact E A and D.

Assuming ALL the pots make the scratchy sound,
then all your circuits are OK, including the G, but
that one saddle is not connected.


It's normal for TRIM pots to sound scratchy during
adjustments. They are a very different design than
the quiet pots intended to be adjusted while you're
actually playing. Trim pots are built for occasional
tweaks, not for continuous use.
 

Jaspergretsch

Active member
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
30
Agreed. Hard to judge from the picture whether
it is functionally intact.

If you access the trim pots and adjust the G-pot
with the volume cranked, you should get a sound
similar to a dirty volume pot. If you get silence,
tweak one of the others,to confirm that you get
the noise from the intact E A and D.

Assuming ALL the pots make the scratchy sound,
then all your circuits are OK, including the G, but
that one saddle is not connected.


It's normal for TRIM pots to sound scratchy during
adjustments. They are a very different design than
the quiet pots intended to be adjusted while you're
actually playing. Trim pots are built for occasional
tweaks, not for continuous use.

I did check the pots and all of them including the G were cranked. But I can try it again. Like I said I don't even get noise when I tap on the saddle.
 

Jaspergretsch

Active member
Joined
Jul 5, 2014
Messages
30
Ok, good news. I took it to my tech who at first looked at it and wasn't honest and said that he wanted nothing to do with it. But, he adjusted the saddle slightly, and bing. It started working again. I'm guess the wire was just getting too squashed, as was noted above.
 

Golem

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Joined
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Messages
2,214
Location
My Place
Ok, good news. I took it to my tech who at first
looked at it and wasn't honest and said that he
wanted nothing to do with it. But, he adjusted
the saddle slightly, and bing. It started working
again. I'm guess the wire was just getting too
squashed, as was noted above.

Prolly that squashed wire is merely a cosmetic issue.
"Adjusting" the saddle is something I've done from
time to time when I have a problem with a Fishman
bridge. It seems as if the piezos are just press fitted
into the saddles and sometimes they need an "extra
press". No clue how they get slightly loose.

So, if the problem recurs, firmly but carefully press
the piezo into the saddle, or tap it in gently with a
sort of "lightweight soft mallet", such as a piece of
dowel or a pencil with its eraser.
 
Last edited:
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