Question Bridge Setup Question

[mikeller]

Note on the pictures (Cutlass RS HSS), the string saddle on the low E-string is very close to the bridge plate. I believe this is telling me I should lower the pivot post slightly to get some more height if I want to adjust the action lower than what it is, however I am reluctant because the bridge plate seems to be set at a very consistent height comparing it to my other EBMM guitars, and in particular my Cutlass SSS ? Suggestions on this?? THANKS!!!!

 

[DrKev]

You are correct. However If you lower the post too much the front of the bridge plate will make contact with the top of the guitar and that could cause problems with tuning stability or wear on the knife edges.

The best solution is to put a shim in the neck pocket. A piece cut from a standard business card will probably do the trick nicely.

 

[mikeller]

Thank you DrKev !!!

Quick question, would the use of a wedge have any effect on sound since its no longer wood on wood?

 

[Astrofreq]

It shouldn’t affect tone. The business card is pressed so tight, it doesn’t even know it is there. I have a shim in probably all my guitars. The EBMM factory specs are great, but I like my guitars with looser tension and lower action. I’m pretty sure I removed a spring as soon as my Cutlass arrived. I bend probably every other note. Haha

 

[DrKev]

Yup. No effect on tone. You can do before and after recordings if you like and check it out but there’ll not be much to hear! There are countless vehement opinions online that frequently contradict each other but ultimately every manufacturer of bolt-on neck guitars uses shims from time to time. It’s not an issue. My personal experience over the years bears that out too. When you can’t get quite enough saddle adjustment a shim is the appropriate solution.

 

[mikeller]

Thanks very much!! I appreciate the replies.

Cheers!

 

[tbonesullivan]

From what I have seen, the bridge posts are not really adjustable for the vintage tremolo. I couldn't get them to budge on my Luke III. Shimming is definitely the most effective way to get more travel in the saddles, and to get action lower. I went from the Brown to the Pink shim on my Luke III, and now I love the setup.

 

[mikeller]

From what I have seen, the bridge posts are not really adjustable for the vintage tremolo. I couldn't get them to budge on my Luke III. Shimming is definitely the most effective way to get more travel in the saddles, and to get action lower. I went from the Brown to the Pink shim on my Luke III, and now I love the setup.

Thank you - where did you get those?

 

[tbonesullivan]

Thank you - where did you get those?

I ordered a set of shims from Ernie Ball. They come in three sizes: .010" (brown), .015"(pink) and .020" (yellow). I would contact EBMM customer service. If it's a new guitar under warranty, they may just send out a set.

 

[mikeller]

That is a good tip!!! Thank you. Yes, it is under warranty, bought it in the spring this year.

 

[mikeller]

I was changing strings on this one today, and tweaking the setup etc.

I am generally good with setting up my own guitars, and having played Music Man guitars for 10+ years I have gotten familiar with setting them up. Aside from the discussion above, and this ties into it, I think the problem here is the neck angle is wrong. I was measuring the action from the bottom of the Low E string to the top of the fret, and what I am seeing is a steady increase all the way up the neck. From the 7th to the 12th fret a little, from the 12th to the 22nd fret, almost 2/64 different. I measured a few other of my EBMM models, and they are almost flat at that stage.

Anymore thoughts?

 

[DrKev]

Sounds like the truss rod is set differently to the other guitars. Can you actually measure your neck relief, like with feeler gauges or some sort of accurate measuring tool? If all your necks have the same gauge strings, and same neck relief, and you measure the same string height over the 12th fret, they should all be identical in every way.

This is a trcky one because it's tricky to see in your head conceptually but the neck angle thing is a red herring. If you have different guitars with the same brand and gauge strings, tuned identically, and you measure the same neck relief and string height (I choose the 12th fret but wherever is fine) then the profile of string height along the necks should be the same.

I have to take my little girl to the beach so I'll try to post again later this evening with a deeper explanation if need be.

 

[mikeller]

DrKev - yeah, using a feeler gauge, relief is about .010 at the 7th fret (capo on fret one, pressing around the 15th fret)....it is visible but slight when tapping. I try to set my guitars all up the same for similar action and feel. I use the same gauge strings on all (9.5-44)

As I measure the distance between the bottom of the low E and the top of the fret:

3rd fret: 3/64
7th fret: 4/64
12th fret: 5.5/64 (I normally set at 4/64 - can't lower this one more per post #1)
17th fret: 6/64
22nd fret: 6.5/64

Oddly, on the high E side, it stays more consistent up the neck. My eyes aren't skilled enough to visibly look at neck for bows, twists and so forth.

Thank you very much for your help - have fun at the beach!!!

Cheers!

 

[HSShane]

I’ve gotten a new EBMM St Vincent and noticed that the entire bridge is floating off the body - is this normal? I know that floating the back of the bridge is commonplace, but is the front of the bridge (i.e. where the knife edge is) supposed to come into contact with the body at all? Or should it float a few mm above the body as it’s currently set up? Thanks!

 

[mikeller]

You might double check with customer service - but that said, the front of the bridge should have a gap about the size of a business card to allow for the trem to work and not hit the body of the guitar.

 

[Astrofreq]

I think it really comes down to what feels the most comfortable for you. I don’t use measurements to make adjustments or do set ups. I just go by feel and can look to see where I need to tweak something. I like my guitars set up quite a bit different than the factory settings, mostly changes to the action and tremolo tension.