Question Any JP owners block their trem?

[fjk1138]

Hello Everyone,

I have a new JPXI-6 and I am considering blocking the trem because I am finding myself not
using it that much, probably because all of my previous guitars had fixed bridges - I think it's just what I am used to.

Have any of you JP model owners blocked your trem? Were you happy with the result(s)?

I've watched some videos on You Tube but I've never done it and would like your thoughts and opinions before I try anything.

Thanks.

 

[beej]

I've done it with most of my guitars that had a floating trem (though never a JP) so they'd be dive only. Easy & cheap way is to put a block of wood in the trem cavity between the trem block and the front wall. Or you could go to something like the Tremol-no, etc. (I always opted for the wood block.)

 

[fjk1138]

When you put the block in, did you secure it with anything (glue, etc) or just wedge it in there and then adjust the trem springs to retain the pressure against it? Also, was the block an exact fit into the space, or did you slightly oversize it to allow for pressure from the bridge to "sink" into the wood a bit?

 

[Kenji20022]

I plan on leaving one of mine unlocked, but I may just block 3 out of the 4. Just because I don't use the trem enough to warrant having 4 Trems floating, and recording with a Trem is a bit of a pain in the ass haha.

Depending on how far I lean forward or back it makes the tuning go sharp or flat, so it sucks no matter what Trem you have unless it's Dive-Only.

I have a Tremol-no and 3 more just sitting in my parts drawer, but I'm going to just install wood blocks again since you can always vary what kind of wood you use. And it increases sustain a bit more having the trem make contact with actual parts touching the body. I also use Double sided tape to hold it in place, in the front of the trem block to make it Dive-Only, or on both sides to really make it a rock solid would be hardtail.

When you're cutting the wood block make sure to just take it as it goes and make it fit a bit snuggly but don't make it's absurdly tight so it doesn't take force to fit in it.

 

[Tollywood]

When you put the block in, did you secure it with anything (glue, etc) or just wedge it in there and then adjust the trem springs to retain the pressure against it? Also, was the block an exact fit into the space, or did you slightly oversize it to allow for pressure from the bridge to "sink" into the wood a bit?

I've used a wood block in the past, but I had to use one tiny dot of Elmer's wood glue to hold it in place. Without the dot of glue, the block would fall out when I dumped the trem. When I eventually sold the guitar, I popped the block out easily, since the glue dot was tiny.

 

[fjk1138]

I have a Tremol-no and 3 more just sitting in my parts drawer, but I'm going to just install wood blocks again since you can always vary what kind of wood you use.

I was considering one of those also, and I see a lot of mixed feelings about them online. How did using it work out for you? I would assume the block is much simpler and actually better for all the reasons you describe.

 

[beej]

I've secured the blocks several different ways- screws, glue, tape, etc. If it's the right size, it'll naturally sit in the cavity and a bit a double-sided tape does wonders to hold it in place.

 

[Kenji20022]

I was considering one of those also, and I see a lot of mixed feelings about them online. How did using it work out for you? I would assume the block is much simpler and actually better for all the reasons you describe.

It does it's job well, it's good for a person who likes using the Trem but enjoys going to Drop D and DADGAD, etc. My only issue is that it doesn't completely immobilize the trem, it still reacts like a hardtail but ESPECIALLY on 7 strings when I go from B Standard to Drop A or my own tuning CEADGBE, the large change in tension by tuning the low string lower or higher causes the other strings to go slightly out. So for live use, it isn't a big deal at all, but when I'm recording it can be more annoying dealing with having to fine tune a lot.

The block is more definite and solid in that regard, once I use a wood block I don't really have to worry about my tuning shifting at all. I just lube the nut and start tracking!

 

[shredfactory]

I installed the Tremel-no this week on one of my JP6s because I haven't been taking a back up to some of my worship gigs. When playing in front of 1000+ people, you don't want to deal with a broken string. I do however use the trem for vibrato and other effects so I have it in dive mode only. Easy install.

 

[fjk1138]

Thanks Guys, I appreciate all the responses.

One final thought - I have 10s on it now with 3 springs. If I added one more spring will that help stabilize the trem more, or is it not even worth it? Personally, I would think that would be a lot of tension for that string gauge and may only have a mild effect on the stability of the bridge versus outright blocking it.

 

[joe web]

i have a blackbox in my MD JP, which is setup to keep the guitar in tune by tuning from standard to drop-d.
i can move it up as well, but it needs a bit more strenght to do this.

 

[beej]

A floating bridge is a balance between string tension and spring tension. If you increase the pull from the springs, the bridge will pull back on it's own and you'll have to loosen the claw to make up for it, ending up roughly where you are.

I'd say it's worth trying the blocking solution. And it's easy to try at home- stuff something handy in there- wood, plastic, whatever fits and is solid. If you like how it feels, you can fashion something that's a better fit.

 

[fjk1138]

I'd say it's worth trying the blocking solution. And it's easy to try at home- stuff something handy in there- wood, plastic, whatever fits and is solid. If you like how it feels, you can fashion something that's a better fit.

Agreed.

Thanks again everyone!

 

[jptortor]

I recently did this... Two blocks of wood. One in front of, and one in back of the trem block. The bridge still sits parallel, or real close anyway, and the bridge can't move at all. I am extremely pleased with the results!

 

[mnwst]

I have mine blocked on my 2010 BFR JP6. I had a tech glue a piece of rosewood to the trem block. But at some point it came lose and fell off. I also tried the Tremel-no, but it wasn't for me. So I installed the brass trem stop from FU-TONE.com, formerly Floyd Rose Upgrades. It involved screwing into the trem cavity, so I understand if this turns off a lot folks!! I gig and rehearse with this guitar 99% of the time, so I needed this to happen. I used it on my Ibanez Jem with ok results. It was just ok because it could slip a little if I leaned on the bridge too hard, or accidentally pulled up on the trem. So on my JP6, I positioned the it upside down, so the "L" goes inside between the trem cavity and trem block. Here's a pic:



With 9's, I set up the trem as even with the body like normal, then moved the trem stop to sit flush against the trem block. Then I drilled two little holes between two of the springs, and tightened the two screws to hold the trem stop. Because I drilled and used screws, it doesn't budge. It definitely resonates more, because its brass against brass I believe. The funny thing about that is as soon as you dive, you lose that sustain once contact is lost between the trem block and trem stop, but the rest of the time it sounds great. And of course, I can get through a song if a string breaks, I can do drop or alternate tunings, and string changes are faster to tune back up.

The JP6 trem is one of the best I've ever used. One of the items on my "wish list" is to have a JP6 with its trem flush against a recessed cavity, like the EVH Wolfgang. If they could do that with a few other minor changes, it would be the perfect guitar for me.