Attn: Rod Trussbroken and others who know how to setup a SR

[Kennyhoe]

I was happily playing my Stingray until a few weeks ago, when i noticed a small fretbuzz beginning to develop. Since then, the fretbuzz has increased, and now it's almost impossible to play regularly without fretbuzz. How would I go about solving this problem? THe buzz does occur all over the neck, and I haven't changed my action or anything. Is it possible to fix without cranking up the action? Thx in advance.

Ken

 

[Evil_Ernie_Ball]

I also have some buzz (sometimes) when i play the E string on my sterling sometimes I hear a light buzzing sound but its not fret buzz (I think) cuz when I press on the string where it's in the nut It doesn't buzz anymore (for a while that is...)
what to do ??

 

[Disquieter]

I was happily playing my Stingray until a few weeks ago, when i noticed a small fretbuzz beginning to develop. Since then, the fretbuzz has increased, and now it's almost impossible to play regularly without fretbuzz. How would I go about solving this problem? THe buzz does occur all over the neck, and I haven't changed my action or anything. Is it possible to fix without cranking up the action? Thx in advance.

Ken

let me restate your question.

[QOUTE=Kennyhoe]I was happily driving my 1974 Datsun 280Z until a few weeks ago when i noticed a small veer towards the left beginning to develop. Since then, the veer has increased, and now it's impossible to drive regularly without veering to the left. How would I go about solving this problem? The veer occurs on all roads, and I haven't adjusted the alignment or anything. Is it possible to fix this without cranking on the alignment? Thx in advance.[/QOUTE]

sorry, that was fun for some reason.

in answer, yes and/or no.

try heavier strings, try finding the sweet spot between the saddles and the neck (adjustment wise).

the later takes some time and patience.

now, questions:

1) wheres does the fretbuzz stop, or does it literally go all the way up the neck to the very end (or what I like to call the salad frets)?

2) does it occur on the treble side of the fretboard as well as the bass, or vice versa?

3) is this a new bass?

4) have you checked for a warp in the neck?



it's possible you've developed a hump around the 15th fret or so, which would give you fret buzz all over the neck.

k.
joel D.

 

[Disquieter]

I also have some buzz (sometimes) when i play the E string on my sterling sometimes I hear a light buzzing sound but its not fret buzz (I think) cuz when I press on the string where it's in the nut It doesn't buzz anymore (for a while that is...)
what to do ??

fer you, i'd say it sounds like the problem is string tension and/or breakangle.

if this happens when playing the open string, you could be rattling in your nut.

try wrapping the string so it ends up as close to the post as possible. this will increse your breakangle over the nut and give you a more solid connection to the neck (better sustain/"tone") and more string tension, help to fit string buzz, detuning and the gum disease gingivitis (sic).

joel d.

 

[Kennyhoe]

You know what Joel, I think that might be it, the break angle thing that is, not my 1974 Datsun 280Z hahaha.

It does occur over pretty much every fret on the fretboard, it's disgusting. The open D and G don't buzz much. The bass was made in March of last year (2003, if I recall correctly ), and how do I check for warp in the neck? Thx again.

 

[Kennyhoe]

Ok, nevermind, it's not the break angle. it still rattles and buzzes and yea.

 

[Aussie Mark]

I don't believe the 280Z was on the market in 1974. Back then, it would have been the early days of the 240Z.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

>>>>>It does occur over pretty much every fret on the fretboard

Being made of wood, the neck's going to move around a bit (weather, temp etc). That will result in a change of neck relielf and, in turn, string height.

My guess is that the neck has become straighter and consequently, the strings are now closer to the fret board than they were previously.

By coincidence, it appears to have moved to where it should be, as the buzz is all over the neck.

I'd be turning my attention to string height.

With the Bass in the play position, and using a 6" steel rule, measure the height of each string at around the 17th fret (between bottom of strings and top of the fret). Aim for around 3/32" on each, consistent with no buzz up and down the neck (from around the 4th fret to the end of the neck). The string height might have to be raised more or perhaps lowered further...depending on how hard you play. Don't worry about any buzz at the first few frets at this stage (if any).

Optional: What I do at this stage is now lower the G string saddle screws 1/4 turn each and lower the A and D proportionately to meet the G (for smoother transition ascross the strings).

Finally, if there's buzz at the first few frets (normally with the D and G strings) slowly add a little relief to the neck untill eliminated. Move the truss wheel to the left, one hole at a time, as you look from the heel towards the headstock. Tune to pitch after each truss wheel adjustment.

Finally, what Mark said about cars is absolutely correct

.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

>>>>I also have some buzz (sometimes) when i play the E string on my sterling sometimes I hear a light buzzing sound but its not fret buzz (I think) cuz when I press on the string where it's in the nut It doesn't buzz anymore (for a while that is...)


Are you talking about the buzz that sometimes appears between the fretted note and the nut...as opposed to normal buzz between the fretted note and the bridge?

.

 

[Disquieter]

I don't believe the 280Z was on the market in 1974. Back then, it would have been the early days of the 240Z.

that's probably why the alignment is off.


I don't know cars, my friends got a Z that gives him no end of trouble and I thought he said it was a 74 280z, but alas, i misheard and in turn, misrepresented.

I apologize.


ok, now that that's done...

who wants a moustache ride?!
joel D.

 

[Evil_Ernie_Ball]

>>>>I also have some buzz (sometimes) when i play the E string on my sterling sometimes I hear a light buzzing sound but its not fret buzz (I think) cuz when I press on the string where it's in the nut It doesn't buzz anymore (for a while that is...)


Are you talking about the buzz that sometimes appears between the fretted note and the nut...as opposed to normal buzz between the fretted note and the bridge?

.

It sometimes buzz when a play an open E and only when I play it open...not when I frett it
Also the E string is the only one that has the problem ..

 

[Kennyhoe]

Thanks Gav,

I remember reading somewhere that your saddles should somehow relate to string width. Like, the difference b/t the E and A saddles should be the difference b/t the diameter of the E and A strings. Can anybody clarify this?

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

>>>I remember reading somewhere that your saddles should somehow relate to string width. Like, the difference b/t the E and A saddles should be the difference b/t the diameter of the E and A strings. Can anybody clarify this?


That's in relation to setting up intonation for the first time...rough positioning of the string saddles to put you in the ballpark...you may or may not need it.

Set the G string saddle to the scale length of your Bass. Measure from inside of the nut to where the G string makes contact with the saddle ie 34 inches for a 34 inch scale Bass. Move the D saddle back from the G saddle (towards the bridge) at a distance equal to the gauge of the D string. If the D has a gauge of .65 inches then move its saddle .65 inches back from the G saddle. Repeat likewise for the A and E saddles.

At first, the saddles will have a "stepped" appearance about them. In actual fact, after the intonation adjustments are complete, the saddles may, or may not look that way at all...depending on the brand and gauge of the strings.

With the strings I use, the D saddle ends up being well ahead of the G (in the direction of the headstock). The A and E end up being together and a fraction back from the G (in the direction of the bridge).

Saddles stepped.​

This is how mine ends up.​

.

 

[Kennyhoe]

Alright, thanks a million gav! Just one more question however

I also experience this open string buzzing on E and A. It occurs around the nut/first fret. How would I go about solving this? I've tried rewinding the E, but that didn't seem to work.

Ken

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Any buzz on E and A if they are depressed at the first fret???

.

 

[Kennyhoe]

Yes, but then again, so is the whole fretboard. (I haven't set it up yet, as this problem is much more "complex" than other problems I've had). I'll try and set it up, and give you a reply ASAP.

Ken

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Evil EB ...odd that you and Ken seem to have a similar prob!

If the open string buzzes but ceases to do so if depressed at the first fret then, IMO, that would indicate that either the nut groove is a bit too low or there's not enough downward pressure on the string over the nut.

If you depress the offending string at the 3rd fret, there should be a clearance between the bottom of the string and the top of the fret at the 1st fret. If not, then the nut groove is too low.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

>>>>Yes, but then again, so is the whole fretboard. (I haven't set it up yet, as this problem is much more "complex" than other problems I've had). I'll try and set it up, and give you a reply ASAP.

I'd assumed that you'd raised the strings but was still having probs. As I said above, IMO, your strings are too low. I would concentrate on this aspect first. Once that's done, I'm sure your probs will be solved.

.

 

[Kennyhoe]

Alright, so I raised the action (a bit higher than what I would like, but I guess it means I have to improve) set the intonation, double checked the truss rod. The open string rattles slightly now when I hit the notes hard. But any fret rattles when you hit it hard enough I guess.

Anyways, I'd like to thank you once again Gav and Disquieter for helping me solve my problems.

Ken

 

[Bluesbob]

Also thank you

for the information about intonation. I always thought that the saddles should look "stepped" when properly set. My Fenders and my Sterling all wind up with an appearance like the second shot of the bridge. In the case of my '71 Jazz, the saddle for the low E is ahead (more towards the neck) of the A. I was losing my cool and doubting my Peterson VS1! Thanks for letting me know I'm not crazy. (Or at least that my basses aren't.)