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Birchwood Casey oil/wax?

kn38ms

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 27, 2004
Messages
121
Location
NW FL
Just oiled the neck per FAQ.
Should I wait 2hrs before waxing to ensure total absorption of the oil
The maple board looks nice with the Formby's Lemon Oil applied. :p
New xtra Slinks will top off the job!
 
kn38ms said:
Just oiled the neck per FAQ.
Should I wait 2hrs before waxing to ensure total absorption of the oil
The maple board looks nice with the Formby's Lemon Oil applied. :p
New xtra Slinks will top off the job!


I Have been Using Birchwood Casey Gunstock Oil since 1985 i'd have too say
Then i use four zero steel wool, then 2000 grit sandpaper and the finish gets very glossy but NO STICKING like a finish does, even looks like it's finished but it's the natural wood. I Love it.
Dave J
 
I know a lot of you guys mention using the 0000 steel wool, but I'm a bit squeamish about doing that to my beloved Sterling and SR4. Suppose all I do is apply the gunstock oil. Am I going to be okay? Neither neck is very dirty because I'm obsessive about washing my hands.
 
0000 steel wool is probably just slightly more abrasive than the palm of your hand. We use 00 steel wool in the detail section of our body shop to clean paint off of glass. If 00 won't hurt glass, I can guarantee that you can't rub hard enough or long enough with 0000 to damage wood. All it will do is make it slicker than a baby's butt.

Remember that Musicman Nut only has something like 79 MM basses to take care of!
 
Jazzbassman23 said:
I know a lot of you guys mention using the 0000 steel wool, but I'm a bit squeamish about doing that to my beloved Sterling and SR4. Suppose all I do is apply the gunstock oil. Am I going to be okay? Neither neck is very dirty because I'm obsessive about washing my hands.

four oooo steel wool will not hurt your guitar, I've been using that on old fender basses since 1968, You'll need to use it because your neck will feel ruff if you just use the oil. Also, let that oil dry real good like 24 hours would be perfect.
Hope this helps
 
Just used the 0000 steel wool between waxes.
4 coats are on the Sterling neck and new Xtra slinkies too. Zinnnggg! :p
 
hi all, someone could tell me in italian what means 0000 steeal wool?
thanks a lot
 
Kinda OT: In a recent BassPlayer magazine, Dan Erlewine wrote that he likes to use Liberson steel wool, as it doesn't have oil on it like other 0000 steel wools do. Does it matter?
 
I doubt it matters, but I spose it's a personal thing.

I've not actually done any of this with my basses, yet.....
 
midopa said:
Kinda OT: In a recent BassPlayer magazine, Dan Erlewine wrote that he likes to use Liberson steel wool, as it doesn't have oil on it like other 0000 steel wools do. Does it matter?


dan likes the stuff with no oil when polishing frets.......cause that takes alot of rubbing....& the oil gets all over yer fingers . but for just a quick smoothing of the back of the neck.....the easier found 0000 stuff w/ oil is just fine. the oil stops the steel wool from rusting.....
i actually prefer the oil stuff for cleaning rosewood fingerboards..... thats all the oiling my boards seem to need.....
i use a magnet to clean up the dust.... :rolleyes:
 
bassbara said:
can I ask you how to use the steel wool?
thanks

As you see everybody has different ways of doing things, As for me, i'd suggest rubbing the steel wool with the grain of the wood, never cross the grain, you'll get scratches that will be hard to remove.

As for myself i prefer the Birchwood Casey Oil to dry for a good 24 hours, then steel wool and after that i use 2000 grit sand paper.

It'll be as smooth as glass but wood feel with no stickeyness
 
+1 ..

the oil has to dry hard to seal & smooth out w/out taking too much off.....a lot of people don't wait enough time between coats. i like using 0000 steel wool...

.
Musicman Nut said:
As you see everybody has different ways of doing things, As for me, i'd suggest rubbing the steel wool with the grain of the wood, never cross the grain, you'll get scratches that will be hard to remove.

As for myself i prefer the Birchwood Casey Oil to dry for a good 24 hours, then steel wool and after that i use 2000 grit sand paper.

It'll be as smooth as glass but wood feel with no stickeyness
 
Musicman Nut said:
As you see everybody has different ways of doing things, As for me, i'd suggest rubbing the steel wool with the grain of the wood, never cross the grain, you'll get scratches that will be hard to remove.

As for myself i prefer the Birchwood Casey Oil to dry for a good 24 hours, then steel wool and after that i use 2000 grit sand paper.

It'll be as smooth as glass but wood feel with no stickeyness

sorry but I'm italian.
Well, passages are:
1) pass the neck with the oil (how much?)
2) wait for 24 hours (ok :p )
3) rub the neck with steel wool along the grain
4) for finishing use the 2000 grit sand paper.
Is it right?
 
Barbara:

1) pass the neck with the oil (how much?)

There are many different ways to apply the oil, but I use my fingers. DO NOT USE A LOT OF OIL and make sure it's applied as evenly as possible. The reason I use my fingers? If you use a cloth, make sure you put the cloth in water (outside, preferably) because the oil can make the cloth spontaneously catch fire. This is why I use my fingers - they won't burst into flames, I think.

2) wait for 24 hours (ok )

It will probably be dry within 24 hours but I always wait 48 hours just to be sure. Put the bass backwards on a guitar stand in a place that doesn't have dust, dirt, etc.


3) rub the neck with steel wool along the grain

Right.

4) for finishing use the 2000 grit sand paper.

You may find that you don't need the sandpaper.

Hope that helps!

Jack
 
Jack - you kidding about the combustion thing?

Am I more gullible than I thought?
 
I don't think I'm kidding.

"I worked for a fire training agency where we used boiled linseed oil to finish the wooden handles on the fire axes. Polyurethane or shellac finishes would bubble and/or melt when exposed to the heat of a fire. When using boiled linseed oil (or any oil and petroleum based finish) be cautious about saturating piles of sawdust or rags with it. It is subject to spontaneous combustion. If you use rags, make sure to hand wash them good with soap and water then air dry outside, or store them in sealed metal containers."

Better safe than sorry.
 
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