EBMM string saddles setup

[Gromit22]

Looking at the bridge of this used EBMM i recently got, it`s clear that the saddles do not follow the curve of the neck (see image). Is this a problem? it might have been set up this way to allow for lowest possible string action without buzzing. Whats the easiest way for me to restore it to a factory setup?

 

[Gromit22]

Im guessing I should propably get a radius gauge of ebay, if I want to do it properly. Are all Sillhouettes 10" radius?

 

[Mordimer]

It's not a problem at all. It's good as long as it feels good to you and suits your picking style and technique.

 

[beej]

You don't really need a radius gauge, just a good ruler with small increments and the right size hex key for the saddle screw. Good opportunity to learn to set the guitar up yourself.

Once you have the neck straight (via the truss rod), put a capo on the first fret (or fret it yourself), and adjust the height so it's where you like it at the 12th fret of each string. It'll be somewhere in the neighbourhood of 3/64" - 4/64".

Then play the guitar- if it buzzes on the low frets you probably haven't set the truss rod right. If it buzzes on the higher frets, raise the saddle of the offending string. Repeat until you like how it plays vs. any fret buzz. When you're all done you may need to check the intonation as well. If you can't get it where you like it, take it to a shop- could be the frets need levelling, etc.

Lots of good advice on the net if you search as well.

 

[Gromit22]

Thanks for the answers. The frets are a bit worn, so I am thinking maybe its best its stays this way - as long as it does not cause any problems. I´v tried adjusting individual strings, and did not really feel any major difference. When I got it, the E string was very low, I did not like how that felt so I adjusted it so it felt right.

I´v tried adjusting a bit on it, if I lower the Bass E string for example to match the radius it buzzes - since I dont want to to have the frets leveled, I think I will just let it stay this way. If I want the strings to follow the radius I´ll have to increase the string height, which I dont want to.

My main question was if it causes any playability issues having the saddles set up like this, I don`t have another Musicman to compare to, so I don`t really know.

I usually adjust the bridge/saddle heights after I´v adjusted the truss rod, Cause I like it at around 0.10 gap at the 8th fret, and no more than 0.15.

 

[beej]

If it feels good, do it

 

[DrKev]

I´v tried adjusting a bit on it, if I lower the Bass E string for example to match the radius it buzzes - since I dont want to to have the frets leveled, I think I will just let it stay this way. If I want the strings to follow the radius I´ll have to increase the string height, which I dont want to.

You can follow the radius to start (yes, 10" on the Silhouettes) and then adjust as necessary. Usually, the bass strings are a little higher than the treble strings. Personally, I like to set the high E and low E first and the use a radius gauge to set the others in between. But like Beej said, you dont need a radius gauge. A steel engineers rule or string height gauge will do fine.

My main question was if it causes any playability issues having the saddles set up like this, I don`t have another Musicman to compare to, so I don`t really know.

No. Playability is in the hands of the player.

I usually adjust the bridge/saddle heights after I´v adjusted the truss rod, Cause I like it at around 0.10 gap at the 8th fret, and no more than 0.15.

Correct order to do things in and good numbers. 0.08" to 0.12" (0.2 mm to 0.3 mm) is my preferred range but it all depends on the individual player and what they like. If you want more or less than those numbers, that's fine too provided you are happy with the fret buzz vs action trade off.

If it feels good, do it

Yep!