Just Retreated my Neck

[Butch Snyder]

Now, it plays like brand new. I know there have been several threads by players who wondered how to go about doing this. I know the FAQ's section of the Ernie Ball website answers this but I thought I'd give a personal account as well as the steps of what I did.

First, I went to Wal-Mart and bought a bottle of Murphy's Oil Soap ($2.50) for a huge bottle. I then went to the Bass Pro Shop and bought bottles of Birchwood-Casey's True Oil and wax. Both bottles cost me less than $4.00 each and will last for years.

I got home and unstrung the guitar and took the neck off. I fixed a place where I could work and I took the Murphy's Oil Soap and diluted 1 part to 3 parts water (about 1/8 cup of oil soap). I mixed it and the water together. Then I "washed" the neck with the solution and a paper towel.

I then dried the neck with a softy cotton cloth. I took the gunstock oil and a paper towel and folded the paper towel and put a "little" amount of the gunstock oil on the paper towel. I then proceeded to wipe down the neck with the oil. I layered the neck in a thin, even layer of oil. After I felt I had gotten enough oil and and did an even job I wiped the excess with a soft cotton cloth. I then took the wax and shook it up in the bottle. I put a little on my finger tips and proceeded to hand rub the neck. I did this until I had a thin, even layer of wax on the neck. I rubbed until the neck was dry. Yes, it does dry. While you're doing this you'll be asking yourself, "Did I put too much on? Is it going to be okay?" The answer is yes to both questions. If you get too much oil on the neck just wipe of the excess with a soft cotten cloth. A diaper works very well.

After I knew the wax was dry, I reattached the neck to the guitar. I strung it up with a new set of Ernie Ball Regular Slinkies and proceeded to stretch the strings and tune as normal.

The result? The neck is just like brand new. I feels just fantastic!! I'm even tempted to use this method on my Telecaster's neck by sanding off the finish and doing the gunstock oil and wax method.

Cheers,

 

[Jimi D]

Thanks for the great step-by-step, Butch! I've been thinking it's time I re-did a couple of my necks as they're starting to show the amount of play time they get, but the FAQ is kind of clinical, and sparse on the details. Your account makes me feel comfortable with the whole process. I'm going to go out and find the necessary supplies this week!

 

[dwf1004]

Butch, you're so cool! Can I have your autograph?

Seriously, thanks for the info on this. I was actually waiting for someone to do this and report their results...you have done well, grasshopper.

I have done the 3:1 Murphy's step on both of my EVH's so far, and that alone is an improvement in itself, getting all of the grime and the like off of the neck (and quite a nice treatment to the finished parts, might I add).

I've been hesitant of the Tru-oil/wax part of it, not because of the agents in question (EBMM recommends them, how can that be wrong?), moreover my chance of "overdoing" it, and taking the chance of ruining my neck(s). The information that you have supplied has some good guidelines/instructions to follow.

Thanks so much for the insight regarding your experience with this process.

 

[Butch Snyder]

I had the exact same fears, if you will, as everyone else here; but being that my neck was over 5 years old and had never been cleaned nor treated, I knew I had to do something and now.

Cheers,

 

[dwf1004]

Just to let ya'll know, I got these items today, though I had to go to FOUR different places during rush hour to find this stuff...they either didn't have it, had one but not the other, and one guy tried to sell me "Bob's Wood Oil and Super Glue" or some crap. Hell no, Birchwood-Casey all the way, that's what EBMM recommended, and that's all I'm settling for.

Anyhows, if the fourth place hadn't had the wax, someone was going to lose their life. But I have them, and either tonight or tomorrow, one of my babies will get the treatment! I'll let you know the outcome, though you can obviously assume good from Butch's input (pardon the pun).

Next time, though, I'm saving myself the hassle, and just ordering it from the website.

(www.birchwoodcasey.com -- did they ever remove the dash from that link on the FAQ?)

 

[dwf1004]

OK, so I did it too...it's a great improvement to the feel, but to top it off, my necks look SO much better after it also.

So, if you decide to follow suit, follow the instructions that Butch laid down above, as I did (the only exception is that I used a cloth to apply and rub the wax, but I was very thorough and made sure that I covered every bit of unfinished wood with it).

You'll be pleased.

 

[Lou]

Did you guys treat the fingerboard or just the back of the neck?

 

[dwf1004]

I did both...I also Q-tipped my frets about 2 hours later with a light amount of alcohol to remove any oil/wax residue that might be on them.

Mmmm...plays so sweet.

 

[magentaplacenta]

Why did you take the neck off? Can't you do this with the neck still attached?

 

[dwf1004]

I took the neck of simply following Butch's lead, but I would have anyways. I would venture that the combination of gunstock oil, as well as the wax on a finished part of the guitar does not a happy combination make.

 

[Butch Snyder]

Why did you take the neck off? Can't you do this with the neck still attached?

You could clean and treat it while still attached to the body; but, think about it. You already have all the strings off. All you have to do is loosen 5 screws. Then you have all access to every part of the neck. Also, it's very light and easy to turn over without the body attached.

As an addendum to the treatment, I called and spoke with Kevin with EB Customer Service. I needed to know how to clean the neck after every performance. I told him about me just retreating the neck and asked him about general "wiping down" after you have sweated on it. He said to use a soft, clean cotton cloth and that would be fine.

Cheers,

 

[magentaplacenta]

Taking the neck off just to clean it seems a bit drastic to me, I mean it isn't like you're submerging the neck in a vat of oil, you're wiping it on, then off, how is the body going to get covered in it? Granted, I've also never removed a bolt-on, but are there any alignment/setup/trussrod adjustments you need to do once you put it back on? Seems like there would some difference just in the fact you're taking it off then putting it back on, I dunno....

It seems overkill to me - what am I missing?

 

[Butch Snyder]

Technically, you're missing the heel. I realize that no part of your hand touches it as it's covered by the body; but, I wanted to get all of the neck; plus, removing it from the body makes it easier to manipulate as I said earlier.


No, you don't have to remove it. And if you just don't se my reasoning then by all means don't remove it.

Cheers,

 

[Jimi D]

I'm with Butch - taking a neck off to clean it makes it much easier to do properly. Plus, you can twist and turn the neck to make sure you get at every little nook and cranny, and you don't have to worry about banging your guitar on the coffee table and putting a big, fat ding in it down near the output jack (never happened to me, of course ) It's really no big deal. I've pulled the neck on most of the bolt-ons I've owned over the years, shimmed a few, left most alone, and never had problems with it. Of course, I long ago realized that the way I tweak and fiddle with my guitars would require some fearlessness on my part if I didn't want to be indebted to the local guitar techs for the rest of my natural life, so there you go...

 

[ZigiStar]

I went for a drive and finally found the BirchwoodCasey oil and wax .... Yippy! I just can not imagine not removing the neck to re-oil and wax it as you really do man-handle the neck alot!

NOTEThis is a Tech Tip ... Always after removing the neck screws hold the neck to the body firmly with your hands... then LOOK closely at the neck pocket for any SHIMS the factory may have put in and REMEMBER where they go!) So far I have yet to see a Music Man with a shim but this is for all the other guitars or the slim chance you do see one. AND last Never overtighten the neck screws when you re-assemble it.

After doing my new SS Axis (yes I did it, I wanted that broken new feel right away, the new neck felt great but it also felt kinda like raw wood) I'm so happy I did. You can see the grain of the wood better now and it feels alittle more not so new.

For those of you who have endured my babblings about the new guitar, here's a very short update. I also am a sound tech, last night the lead guitar player put the Axis SS threw about 9 songs in a row live... He used the tremolo very much and the guitar passed with flying colors! I saw him check the tuning several times (he hits a footswitch while playing looking down at the meter) I never saw him touch a tuning peg once and this morning the guitar was still in tune!

Well time to put the SS back together the Wax should be dry by now. The neck looks so good!!!

ZigiStar

 

[kd8ux]

semi chrome

When I do a treatment for my guitar necks,I use BORE oil.It's used on claranets and such.But first I use a fret guard and polish the frets with a product called semi chrome.Just a little dab on your finger and rub it in and wipe it off with a soft rag.It'll make your frets smooth and shining.
Then I clean the neck and put a drop of BORE oil on each fret and rub it in by hand.Let it sit for a few minutes,wipe it off and do it again.Sometimes I will leave the neck over night if the oil is really soaking in.After I'm happy with the oil treatment,I wipe the neck off again with a clean soft cloth,go over the frets again,put the new strings on and away we go.It looks great feels great and your guitar will love you for another 6 months.
It works for all guitar necks and frets.
Phil

 

[ratter]

Just did two necks...so far so good!

Thanks to all the pioneers for posting their how-to's.

I really like how my relatively new Axis neck now has more of that golden sheen to it. It used to look like raw wood from Lowe's or something. My old EVH neck looks basically the same, but I'm happier knowing that it is protected from the "elements" now.

 

[the_g_man]

Technically, you're missing the heel. I realize that no part of your hand touches it as it's covered by the body; but, I wanted to get all of the neck; plus, removing it from the body makes it easier to manipulate as I said earlier.


No, you don't have to remove it. And if you just don't se my reasoning then by all means don't remove it.

Cheers,

I WILL NEVER REMOVE THE NECK OF MY LUKE!!!

Here's why. In a metal on wood collision, metal wins. Every time you remove the neck, you degrade the neck wood. I do alot of pickup replacements, and I constantly have to stick toothepicks into pickguard holes to make the screws hold. You think a neck screw works any different? For a bolt-on neck guitar, this might be a pretty serious consideration? As for why "getting all of the neck" and "technically, I'm missing the heel"... are important...please state why. The heel of a bolt-on neck is "technically" sealed by the body wood. By unscrewing it, you expose the virgin neck wood to untold tragedy.

I don't think I'll ever see your reasoning, and I will never remove the neck on my Luke.

Gary

 

[Butch Snyder]

I WILL NEVER REMOVE THE NECK OF MY LUKE!!!

Here's why. In a metal on wood collision, metal wins. Every time you remove the neck, you degrade the neck wood. I do alot of pickup replacements, and I constantly have to stick toothepicks into pickguard holes to make the screws hold. You think a neck screw works any different? For a bolt-on neck guitar, this might be a pretty serious consideration?

Physically speaking, you're correct. If I remove the neck from the body every day, sure, sooner or later the screw holes will be stripped out. But, I retreat the neck 2x a year. I really don't think there's a problem. I have owned 40+ guitars over a period of about 30 years and 75% of those were bolt-on necks. I've never had a problem.

As for why "getting all of the neck" and "technically, I'm missing the heel"... are important...please state why. The heel of a bolt-on neck is "technically" sealed by the body wood. By unscrewing it, you expose the virgin neck wood to untold tragedy.

I don't think I'll ever see your reasoning, and I will never remove the neck on my Luke.

There is no virgin part of the neck. The headstock is finished and the heel is oiled and waxed; at least mine was.

I don't think I'll ever see your reasoning, and I will never remove the neck on my Luke.

Suits me...

I posted what I did as a better tutorial for players who have wanted or needed to do this to their necks but were possibly afraid to due to the nondetail of the FAQ's section of the Ernie Ball website. You do what you want. As I have said before, you can remove the neck as I and others did, or you can choose not to.

 

[the_g_man]

Hey Butch,

I'm sorry if my original post came off as being smart-@$$. After re-reading it, I'm kind of embarrassed. Thanks for being civil in your reply.

Gary

PS- I still won't take the neck off my Luke though ;-)