Stingray nut slots too shallow?

LanceManyon

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Feb 28, 2016
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Does anyone else think that the nut slots on the Stingray bass are cut shallow? The gaps between string bottoms and top of first fret are noticeably larger than those on my other, non-EBMM basses. Anyone do any nut filing to deepen the slots for lower action?
 
Interesting, I have found this to be the case on my Bongos. I've had to had them all adjusted. Unfortunately I think the downside of that is it may mess with the minor changes in intonation caused by the compensated nut, and tuning has been a little interesting. But I prefer the action.

My 1994 'Ray (no compensated nut) is perfect, though.

Tom
 
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In my experience the compensated nuts get sent out a tad higher than the regular ones. I really do prefer regular nut for bass.... seems that with the compensted, to intonate properly the sadles need to move all the way towards the neck....
 
Thank you both. And interesting about having to move saddles way forward for intonation. I found the same, but then found my pickups were high. Once I lowered them to ebmm spec, I intonated again and found the saddles needed to be put back more, putting string lengths at a nominal 34".
 
Thank you both. And interesting about having to move saddles way forward for intonation. I found the same, but then found my pickups were high. Once I lowered them to ebmm spec, I intonated again and found the saddles needed to be put back more, putting string lengths at a nominal 34".

So you are saying that a high pickup could mess with your intonation?
 
I've seen it discussed several times in several sources (e.g., message boards, instrument manuals) and found the same in my own experience. It's not limited to one brand of instrument either. I have found that if my pickups were too close, just doing the intonation was difficult. The needle on my digital tuner would not sit in the "sweet spot," i.e., zero cents deviation from center. One needs to find the sweet spot of pickup height so that you're far enough for proper intonation, yet close enough for the output you want. I find that I can usually go a bit closer than vendor spec.
 
The g slot on my bongo was a little too deep, built it up with super glue. Worked and haven't had to do it again.
 
If your PUs are MUCH too high, the magnetic
pull of the PUs drags on the strings, and this
will noticeably affect your intonation.
 
In my experience the compensated nuts get sent out a tad higher than the regular ones. I really do prefer regular nut for bass.... seems that with the compensted, to intonate properly the sadles need to move all the way towards the neck....

I have had no height issues with my compensated nut, its been perfect straight out of the box for 10years now, the saddles to look a little strange, all being moved forward and pretty much all level with each other but im guessing that's the point of the compensated nut.
My other stingray has a standard nut and to be honest I cant tell them apart sound wise.
Nut height, saddle height, neck relief, pick up height, intonation, its all something you need to be able to set yourself to how you want it as its you who has to play it. Set it up to factory speck and go from there
 
I have had no height issues with my compensated nut, its been perfect straight out of the box for 10years now, the saddles to look a little strange, all being moved forward and pretty much all level with each other but im guessing that's the point of the compensated nut.
My other stingray has a standard nut and to be honest I cant tell them apart sound wise.
Nut height, saddle height, neck relief, pick up height, intonation, its all something you need to be able to set yourself to how you want it as its you who has to play it. Set it up to factory speck and go from there
My point was just that the intonation screws on the sadless are too short, if i set the intonation on my ray with compensated nut, the screws are only just grabbing the sadless. There is absolutely no room for further adjustement, 1 extra turn and the sadles would fall off....
The bridge doesnt really seem to be adjusted to work with the compensated nut. Well it does work, but its verry close on my bass
 
My point was just that the intonation screws on the sadless are too short, if i set the intonation on my ray with compensated nut, the screws are only just grabbing the sadless. There is absolutely no room for further adjustement, 1 extra turn and the sadles would fall off....
The bridge doesnt really seem to be adjusted to work with the compensated nut. Well it does work, but its verry close on my bass

Oh I got it now :)
On mine they are all forward (a lot more forward and closer in line with each other than on none compensated) but there is plenty of thread left on the screws for further adjustment forwards
 
Compensated nut for what? neither my guitars or basses have compensated nut and never had any problem.
 
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