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The correct way to string replacement for MM JP Tremolo?

K

Konstantin

Member
Joined
Dec 24, 2015
Messages
9
I need advises. I need to remove all the strings, and then to set back.
What is correct way to change the strings?
Is there something the correct sequence of removal of the springs and strings to avoid damaging the tremolo?
Do I have anything to enclose a tremolo to fix it?

PS. Sorry for my bad English.
 
I was worried about this also when I replaced my strings. I finally pulled the trem forward and put a polishing cloth under it and took off all the strings, polished the guitar, oiled the fretboard and replaced the strings. It worked great.

Vic
 
vic_loher said:
I was worried about this also when I replaced my strings. I finally pulled the trem forward and put a polishing cloth under it and took off all the strings, polished the guitar, oiled the fretboard and replaced the strings. It worked great.

Vic
Click to expand...

For maintenance that's the way to go. For regular string changes I just change the strings one by one, makes it easier to get it back into tune.
 
I am worry about extreme stress around the trem pole slots and increased wear at the pivot points when tremolo goes down and the angle at the point of contact is very large in a situation where the strings removed.

For example, should I remove all strings, and then remove all springs? Or I should remove two central strings then remove one central spring etc. Other ideas?
 
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If you really need to remove everything and are worried about wear, I would also do what Vic suggested above. "block off" your trem by stuffing a clean cloth underneath. You can then remove all of the strings, and the trem should stay in place due to the remaining spring tension keeping the cloth wedged in there. You can then remove the springs if need be.

Although, I was always under the impression that more wear can/will occur when adjusting the posts too aggressively while under full tension (as opposed to just having the bridge resting against the posts statically at an exaggerated angle). Correct me if I'm wrong.
 
Never take off all strings unless necessary. Tuning is not the issue, yes it could be harder, but the real issue is that you are removing anywhere between 50kg and 70kg of tension on the neck depending on your string gauge. If you must take them all off, don't wait long before replacing them. Otherwise you may need to adjust the truss rod.
 
JamieCrain said:
Never take off all strings unless necessary. Tuning is not the issue, yes it could be harder, but the real issue is that you are removing anywhere between 50kg and 70kg of tension on the neck depending on your string gauge. If you must take them all off, don't wait long before replacing them. Otherwise you may need to adjust the truss rod.
Click to expand...

If you know how to do it, a truss rod adjustment is extremely simple, especially on a MM guitar. I'd rather take all the strings off and have an easy time cleaning the instrument and do a truss rod adjustment if necessary than mess around with one string at a time. Kind of annoying to clean the instrument with the one string at a time method. Just take something really soft and place it under the bridge so that when you take all the strings off it isn't being pulled all the way up by the springs. It also helps if you keep the bridge level on MM guitars that have the locking system like a Luke or a JP model when you go to put the new string on. Pull the string pretty tight through the tuner slot and lock it down. Takes two seconds to tune up after that. Love the way MM guitars are designed.
 
Konstantin said:
I am worry about extreme stress around the trem pole slots and increased wear at the pivot points when tremolo goes down and the angle at the point of contact is very large in a situation where the strings removed.

For example, should I remove all strings, and then remove all springs? Or I should remove two central strings then remove one central spring etc. Other ideas?
Click to expand...

It's not a problem with a little care and difficult to make any significant damage. Order of the springs is not important (and the claw will move more than the bridge will anyway).

Start with a folded bath towel under the guitar.
Then I place cards or post-it notes under the back of the bridge, detune and remove the strings. The spring tension keeps the bridge quite nicely in place against the mounting posts.
Flip the guitar over face down onto the towel, holding the bridge in position with one hand as I do so.
Remove the springs, and then flip the guitar over, again holding the bridge in place with one hand. Then you can pull the bridge back and up to remove it from the body. Be careful on guitars with piezo saddles, you risk breaking wires from the piezo to the control cavity!

When re-assembling, place the bridge into place and hold it gently into the correct position on the bridge mounting posts. Place cards/post-its under the bridge in the same position as before. Hold bridge in place while turning the guitar over. Re-install springs, string up as usual.

JamieCrain said:
Never take off all strings unless necessary. Tuning is not the issue, yes it could be harder, but the real issue is that you are removing anywhere between 50kg and 70kg of tension on the neck depending on your string gauge. If you must take them all off, don't wait long before replacing them. Otherwise you may need to adjust the truss rod.
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with keeping all string on if you want but there is no danger or risk in taking them all off. It's an old myth that we need to kill off. I have never had to adjust truss rod after taking all the strings off. See myths number 3 and 4 here...

Truth About Truss Rods – Part 2 – Myth Busting! | DrKevGuitar.com
 
I take em all off. I place a folded up cardboard tube from a paper towel roll under the trem in the route before removing the strings. Then when it's restrung and tuned up almost to pitch, I remove the roll.
 
Good myth busting article; made sense to me. I also use the folded rag under the tremolo method to block it, pull all strings out, then restring with slinky RPS 10s.
 
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To add, tune, pull the string outwards 1 inch at the 12th fret for a slight string stretch, tune, should be good. Rarely a need to adjust the trust rod tension for me.
 
Would somebody want to clarify the exact question under examination? Given that this is a relatively old thread =D

Is it "Should I remove all strings at once, OR one at a time, when replacing strings on a JP model?", if I understand correctly?

Thanks guys and possibly gals
 
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