Question about Murphy's Oil Soap vs Gunstock Tru-oil

[Tanax]

Hello!

I'm curious, are the 2 oils both meant to be used in compliment to each other?
Or is it more like .. either you use the Myrphy's oil or you use the Gunstock Tru-oil?

The reason I'm asking is because I can get the Gunstock Tru-oil(aswell as the Wax) pretty easially, however since I'm living in Europe, I can not get Murphy's oil(since they're not sold here) so if you're meant to use both the Murphy and the Tru-oil, I'll need to find some supplement instead of Murphy's.

If it's of any importance, I have the guitar in the signature and will use these on an unfinished maple-neck(NOT the fretboard).

-Marcus

 

[DrKev]

Murphy oil soap is a soap, not an oil.

Any diluted mild soap that is recommended for unfinished woods will do fine. Similarly any good quality gunstock oil and/or wax will do just fine too.

 

[Tanax]

Murphy oil soap is a soap, not an oil.

Any diluted mild soap that is recommended for unfinished woods will do fine. Similarly any good quality gunstock oil and/or wax will do just fine too.

Cheers for replying!
So if I understood it correctly, I could use the Murphy's(or a supplement instead of it) + Tru-oil + Wax, or I could just go with the Tru-oil + Wax and skip the soap?

Just want to make sure before I buy all of these stuff ^_^

 

[ozzyrules]

Cheers for replying!
So if I understood it correctly, I could use the Murphy's(or a supplement instead of it) + Tru-oil + Wax, or I could just go with the Tru-oil + Wax and skip the soap?

Just want to make sure before I buy all of these stuff ^_^

The oil-soap is a cleaning agent and should be used first, followed by the tru oil(used to treat the wood), followed by the wax(sort of a protective layer).

 

[Spudmurphy]

Hi
This is identical to Murphy's Soap Oil

Here is an Amazon link
151 Oil Soap, floors, furniture,wood, hard surfaces: Amazon.co.uk: Kitchen & Home
it's called 151 love your wood oil soap

 

[Tanax]

The oil-soap is a cleaning agent and should be used first, followed by the tru oil(used to treat the wood), followed by the wax(sort of a protective layer).

Ohh! Right. Thanks for clearing that up

Hi
This is identical to Murphy's Soap Oil

Here is an Amazon link
151 Oil Soap, floors, furniture,wood, hard surfaces: Amazon.co.uk: Kitchen & Home
it's called 151 love your wood oil soap

I was just about to ask about which soaps can be used that are available here in EU!
Have anyone used the 151 love~ soap?

Also, does the 1:3 diluted formula apply to that soap as well?

 

[kimonostereo]

I only use a cleaner (Murphy's Oil Soap) if the fret board is so dirty that it needs it.

There are other ways to clean a maple fretboard but most of them strip the oil finish off. Understand that using any type of oil (tru-oil, tung oil, linseed oil) on bare wood acts as a type of finish once it's dried. Depending on how much you use, it can seal in any dirt left on the neck.

Basically what you are doing when applying the tru-oil to the neck is sealing it, allowing the oil to harden, then using a wax (carnuba or other) to polish and seal it a bit more.

Has anyone noticed that EBMM guitars in the last 10 years probably have a lighter coating on the necks compared to the older early-mid 90's guitars like the EVH, Luke I and Pinky Al? All of those necks were very dark colored compared to more recent models. Of course, it could just be aging of the oil finish, however I've never seen the maple necks that golden, darker color that they used to be when first bought.

 

[ozzyrules]

The oil-soap is a cleaning agent and should be used first, followed by the tru oil(used to treat the wood), followed by the wax(sort of a protective layer).

I've only used the above treatment method when I'm totally re-conditioning a really "poorly maintained " neck. If it's not in bad shape, Ernie Ball wonder wipes fret board conditioner works fine.

 

[Tanax]

I only use a cleaner (Murphy's Oil Soap) if the fret board is so dirty that it needs it.

There are other ways to clean a maple fretboard but most of them strip the oil finish off. Understand that using any type of oil (tru-oil, tung oil, linseed oil) on bare wood acts as a type of finish once it's dried. Depending on how much you use, it can seal in any dirt left on the neck.

Basically what you are doing when applying the tru-oil to the neck is sealing it, allowing the oil to harden, then using a wax (carnuba or other) to polish and seal it a bit more.

Has anyone noticed that EBMM guitars in the last 10 years probably have a lighter coating on the necks compared to the older early-mid 90's guitars like the EVH, Luke I and Pinky Al? All of those necks were very dark colored compared to more recent models. Of course, it could just be aging of the oil finish, however I've never seen the maple necks that golden, darker color that they used to be when first bought.

I haven't cleaned my guitar neck in 2 years. It's definitely not THAT dirty, not by a long shot. I'm not touring or gigging, I'm only playing at home in my spare time. But due to the long time since it's been cleaned, I definitely want to give her the "royal treatment". And I'm confused because you talk about fretboard when I'm talking about the neck(the backside, e.g. *not* the fretboard). Perhaps we're talking about the same thing, just making sure..

But I totally understand what you mean. Tru-oil is to be applied only after it's been cleaned. And wax at the end.

I've only used the above treatment method when I'm totally re-conditioning a really "poorly maintained " neck. If it's not in bad shapes, Ernie Ball wonder wipes fret board conditioner works fine.

Fretboard conditioner on the backside of the neck?
Unfortunately, the Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes are quite difficult to get a hold of here in EU as well so I can't use those. Know anything else that I can use instead of those?

 

[Spudmurphy]

I've used the 151 oil soap. I also have Murphys. There really is nothing between them. They sell it down the road from me for about a £1 !!!!

 

[Tanax]

I've used the 151 oil soap. I also have Murphys. There really is nothing between them. They sell it down the road from me for about a £1 !!!!

Very cool(and really cheap! ). Will definitely check them out! Thanks for the tip
You don't happen to know a supplement to the Wonder Wipes while you're at it?

Or if someone knows a place in EU where you can buy the WW would be even more awesome.

 

[DrKev]

I just looked at Thomann, who don't have 'em, but they're listing Cobalt strings as IN STOCK!

 

[Tanax]

I just looked at Thomann, who don't have 'em, but they're listing Cobalt strings as IN STOCK!

Lol. That's Thomann for ya'
Found these: 6 X ERNIE BALL 4247 WONDER WIPES FRETBOARD CONDITIONER|eBay

But I mean.. the question is if that user restocks them. Otherwise, it's those 7 packages, and that's it.

 

[ozzyrules]

Wonder wipes(fret board conditioner) on the back & fret board. let it soak in for a few minutes(5-10). Then wipe residue with dry cotton rag. It cleans & lubricates and works "wonders".

 

[Defender2000]

Murphy's is different than the Birchwood-Casey tru oil. Murphy's (or whatever EU equivalent you have) is a cleaner. Tru oil is a light finish to condition the wood.

This is what I do on a very dirty neck. I remove all the strings. Make sure you block and support the bridge so it doesn't pop out. Dilute the Murphy's oil soap and use a soft toothbrush to work in the soap and scrub all the gunk off the neck and fretboard and wipe it down clean. Then I'll use #0000 steel wool and lightly go over the neck and fingerboard to kinda smooth any raised wood grain and polish the frets. Always try to go along the grain of the wood and not across. Be careful around the pickups because the magnets will attract any metal shavings. Masking tape over the polepieces will help.

Once that's all done its time for the tru oil and wax treatment. Use a paper towel and wipe the oil onto the neck and fretboard and work it into the wood. Wipe off any excess right away because it will get sticky and harder to work with. Depending on how dry the neck feels, I'll apply the oil in the same manner a second time.

Some people find that the oil treatment is enough and they'll stop at this point and there is nothing wrong with that. You'll still end up with a nice smooth finish. But I feel that the wax treatment is essential for finalizing the process. You apply it in the same manner as the oil. The wax kinda seals in the tru oil on the neck and provides a nice smooth and fast finish. To me the wax smooths out the stickier feeling oil. After everything, I'll wipe everything down with a clean microfiber towel.

In the end, you'll end up with a nice clean, smooth, and fast neck with the figuring of the wood really popping out. Almost 3d looking. Other people have different procedures for doing all this. This just happens to be the way I do it and it works for me.

 

[behrens]

This is what I do on a very dirty neck...

Holy awesome tutorial! Thank you! It's been hard to find a straightforward walk through like this.

 

[Defender2000]

You're welcome. Glad to help!!! It took a me a little while to refine my method. A lot of trial and error and a lot of reading of what other people have been doing. But i agree, it can be tough to find a full walkthrough on how to do this. There seems to be a lot of mystery behind the tru oil and wax treatment and there really shouldn't be. It's not difficult at all. I've been doing it this way for quite a few years with great results.

 

[Tanax]

Wonder wipes(fret board conditioner) on the back & fret board. let it soak in for a few minutes(5-10). Then wipe residue with dry cotton rag. It cleans & lubricates and works "wonders".

That might work if you're doing it on a regular basis, which is what I will try to do after I've given her a royal treatment

Murphy's is different than the Birchwood-Casey tru oil. Murphy's (or whatever EU equivalent you have) is a cleaner. Tru oil is a light finish to condition the wood.

This is what I do on a very dirty neck. I remove all the strings. Make sure you block and support the bridge so it doesn't pop out. Dilute the Murphy's oil soap and use a soft toothbrush to work in the soap and scrub all the gunk off the neck and fretboard and wipe it down clean. Then I'll use #0000 steel wool and lightly go over the neck and fingerboard to kinda smooth any raised wood grain and polish the frets. Always try to go along the grain of the wood and not across. Be careful around the pickups because the magnets will attract any metal shavings. Masking tape over the polepieces will help.

Once that's all done its time for the tru oil and wax treatment. Use a paper towel and wipe the oil onto the neck and fretboard and work it into the wood. Wipe off any excess right away because it will get sticky and harder to work with. Depending on how dry the neck feels, I'll apply the oil in the same manner a second time.

Some people find that the oil treatment is enough and they'll stop at this point and there is nothing wrong with that. You'll still end up with a nice smooth finish. But I feel that the wax treatment is essential for finalizing the process. You apply it in the same manner as the oil. The wax kinda seals in the tru oil on the neck and provides a nice smooth and fast finish. To me the wax smooths out the stickier feeling oil. After everything, I'll wipe everything down with a clean microfiber towel.

In the end, you'll end up with a nice clean, smooth, and fast neck with the figuring of the wood really popping out. Almost 3d looking. Other people have different procedures for doing all this. This just happens to be the way I do it and it works for me.

Very nice guide, thanks a bunch!
I will most likely skip the steel wool as I don't think it's THAT dirty. I merely just want to restore the guitar into the natural shine and glory as it was when I got it but I can't say that it's that dirty. I only play perhaps 7 hours a week at home and it is stored in its case at all times when it's not being played so definitely not that dirty.

What I'll most likely do is:

Neck(backside, not fretboard):
- 151 oil soap to clean it from smudges, body-fat, etc: 151 Oil Soap, floors, furniture,wood, hard surfaces: Amazon.co.uk: Kitchen & Home
- Birchwood Casey Gunstock Tru-oil to get some conditioner and natural finish into the wood: BIRCHWOOD casey Tru-Oil Gun Stock Finish - Vapenvårdsbutiken
- Birchwood Casey Gunstock Wax to seal the Tru-oil and make it shine: Birchwood Casey - Kolvvård - Vapenvårdsbutiken

That's it for the backside of the neck.
As for the fretboard, I don't think it's that dirty either and I don't even think I would have to use some soap.

Fretboard:
- Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes Fretboard Conditioner, yes I did find a dealer in EU who restocks them regularly: 6 X ERNIE BALL 4247 WONDER WIPES FRETBOARD CONDITIONER | eBay

As for the body, I've heard some mixed reactions about different body-treatments. I've heard that some people don't like the Ernie Ball Guitar Polish AT ALL and says that it merely just smears out the smudges and doesn't work and that the Dunlop Formula 65 is a lot better. Other people says that the Dunlop Formula 65 makes the guitar clean but that it leaves a layer of "fat" thickness so that each time you use it, it gets worse or something like that. I guess it's kind of preferential. I'm going to try the Dunlop Formula 65, only because I already have a bottle of that so we'll see if I like that.

Body:
- Dunlop Formula 65 Guitar Polish & Cleaner
- Dunlop Formula 65 Cream of Carnauba

All of it will be wiped on and used along with the Ernie Ball Guitar Cloth: Ernie Ball | Instrument Care - Ernie Ball Microfiber Polish Cloth

You're welcome. Glad to help!!! It took a me a little while to refine my method. A lot of trial and error and a lot of reading of what other people have been doing. But i agree, it can be tough to find a full walkthrough on how to do this. There seems to be a lot of mystery behind the tru oil and wax treatment and there really shouldn't be. It's not difficult at all. I've been doing it this way for quite a few years with great results.

I definitely think you are right in that it is a lot of unnecessary mystery with this. I think it's mainly because of the fact that it's wood and different wood requires different things. Add to that the fact that these instruments costs a great deal of money, you don't really want to f*ck it up by applying something that will destroy the wood XD It's also because of the fact that the manufacturers are really bad at describing in the product-description of their cleaning-product of what it can be used on, what types of wood and things like that.

 

[lukather101]

I've used the 151 oil soap. I also have Murphys. There really is nothing between them. They sell it down the road from me for about a £1 !!!!

Where

 

[DrKev]

The only thing I would add to the above is not to use too much oil or wax when applying. Just a dab on a paper towel is enough, then a thorough wipe down with fresh paper towels. Remember, you can always do a second pass if you need to and anyone who ever had a problem applied a lot.