Action / truss rod adjustment on new Sterling 5H (Question)

[Marine57]

Hi,

I set my action with a .015 sparkplug gauge and like my strings around 2mm off the frets around 17th fret. I got a new Sterling 5H today. It was shipped from NY to PA and we have had a nice cold winter. Everyone one of my basses needs a 1/4 turn or so of adjustment between summer and winter, to keep the action listed above. No biggie. So I needed to drop the action a little on this new Sterling as well. Went to make the adjustment and truss rod wheel was already turned as far as it could go clockwise. I can back it off without issue so I know the truss rod should be OK. I found the saddle height was too high so I adjusted that and I was able to match my usual action. So my question is: should my truss rod have any adjustment left in it or do you think this is normal for a Sterling? I have a Sterling 4HS and the truss rod has a little clockwise adjustment left in it. My Stingray 4H has a lot left. I just want the piece of mind that my new 5H is OK.

Helpful thoughts anyone?

 

[Ray Salamon]

My Sterling is no where near maxed out. But, I don't think you can say an entire line of bass (any bass) has a "usual" for how much adjustment there should be in the truss rod - it's an instrument by instrument case. That bass's particular neck needed it adjusted to be maxed out, so that's what you're left with. If you ever need more than that, you're options are pretty limited.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

.

Customer Service is your friend:

[email protected]

 

[Golem]

.

Customer Service is your friend:

[email protected]

Absolutely ! A new MM with factory supplied strings
should always have enuf reserve in the truss rod as
to allow over-flattening the neck into a reverse bow
[opposite of the relief bow]. Make that call or email.

 

[Marine57]

Thank you my friends!

 

[ArtR]

I have a Sterling and I'd like flatten the neck a little. If I put the guitar on my bench with the neck pointing to my left when facing it, which way do I turn the nut? I too thought it was just a saddle height adjustment, but still too bowed. Any help appreciated!!! Also how much should I adjust and how long should I allow to settle before making another adjustment, if necessary?

 

[nervous]

I have a Sterling and I'd like flatten the neck a little. If I put the guitar on my bench with the neck pointing to my left when facing it, which way do I turn the nut? I too thought it was just a saddle height adjustment, but still too bowed. Any help appreciated!!! Also how much should I adjust and how long should I allow to settle before making another adjustment, if necessary?

In your scenario turning the wheel away from you will tighten the rod and flatten the neck. Clockwise to tighten, counter clockwise to loosen. Pretty sensitive and a quarter turn will have a noticeable impact. And do read and understand the relief setting. Very important to keeping the "clank" factor minimized and clear solid note production.

Go slow. Always

Don't force. Ever

 

[ArtR]

Thank you! Most appeciated.

 

[ArtR]

Actually... One more question. Should the saddles be set so they match the curve of the neck or be at the same height? Mine is setup with all being at same height which does give the effect of the E strings being high off the fretboard and middle strings closer.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

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The saddles should match the curve of the neck.

Also for truss adjustment:

 

[sanderhermans]

I would say dont mess around to much. Or take it to a good guitar shop for a proper setup. Or do it yourself but read up first.... be gentle on trus rod adjustments. Do them a quarter turn at a time and be carefull if you dont really know what you are doing. Youll get the hang of setting up basses and guitars by doing it but take your time and do research when its your first time.

 

[ArtR]

Thanks! I did make a quarter turn to the truss Rod. However, i may back that off a bit and adjust the saddles to match the curve of the neck. Then see where things settle. Neck seems a little too flat after the adjustment, so may be a little bit of both. Previously I has a les paul with the tune-o-matic bridge. Flatter neck and idiotic proof bridge (perfect for me lol).

 

[ArtR]

One more question. Should the neck have any bow whatsoever? I popped into the local music store and was surprised at how many of the guitars I checked had dead straight necks. Mine had a considerable now where the string height at the 8th to 12 fret range was well above the recommended height, which I was told is 25mm or .10 inch. I have room to play to get my neck absolutely straight but let a bit of bow because I thought some was necessary...

 

[nervous]

Relief is a very important part of how a guitar or bass is designed and works. Especially from the first to 12th fret. Some fretted bass may play fine with a flatter neck but in my experience it's rare. I also fine, as a general experience, that the flatter a neck is the more likely one is to induce 'clank' or something I refer to as 'back buzz' where the string behind the fretted note can impart a certain nastiness if you don't have impeccable fretting technique.

Proper relief setup is critical in solid note production. Learn first how to do this. On MM basses it's a simple technique of left hand fretting a string at the 1st fret and right hand, try with your pinky, fretting the same string at the same time, at the 12th fret. Then take your right thumb and gently press that string somewhere in between. Generally speaking there should some space between the string and frets. Some measur but just think paper to business card thickness.

Set that distance with the truss rod wheel. After that you work with the saddles, following the radius of the fretboard and measure at the 12th fret using the EBMM spec as a starting point.

 

[ArtR]

Hi. Thanks. I am setting up my SBMM guitar and will work with that as my guideline!

 

[Golem]

`

NOOB ALERT:

Spray a bit of penetrating oil into the adjuster.
Most MMs adjust smoothly without it altho now
and again there's a more stickier example ....

But ... for a truss rod nooby, I recommend the
extra lube anyway, cuz the smoother the thing
works, the more very obvious it will be when/if
you get to the limit of the adjuster, where you
must stop, cease, and desist !!! Thus the lube
serves as a safety measure, to protect the rod
from a less experienced person adjusting it.

 

[nervous]

Hi. Thanks. I am setting up my SBMM guitar and will work with that as my guideline!

EBMM, SBMM, LMNOP, doesn't matter. It is the principal and understanding of the purpose and general necessity of what relief is and does, and it's place in the overall 'set-up' scheme, that you need to grasp first. There's a reason that thing is adjustable.

And they will break if mishandled. I know all too well. Which now circles me to the neck through discussion thread...

 

[jlepre]

I have to put in my 2 cents here. I have been playing Musicman 5ers now for over 8 years, and these are the ONLY basses where I can feel comfortable/confident to perform my own adjustments. With ever changing temperatures in the northeast, I can make truss adjustments just minutes before taking the stage to get my action just to where I like it. I keep an allen wrench in my gig bag for just such occasions.

Oh plus I have had my current SR5 for over 5 years, and I have yet to bring it in for a professional setup. No need to.

 

[five7]

Same here, always have an allen with me and only takes seconds to adjust. When I flew to Florida this year had to adjust it. Luckily they let me take a tool set in the prison I was playing at.

 

[tbonesullivan]

I have a sticky truss rod on my 2012 stingray. I think it's more to do with the plastic washer and the wood than the actual rod. It just needs a bunch of effort to get it moving, but then it "jumps". I think maybe graphite might help... maybe?