whitestrat
Well-known member
Do I have to adjust the saddles one by one? or can I lower the bridge by tweaking those 2 trem posts ala Ibanez Edge bridges?
Anyone?
Anyone?
Question Adjusting Action on a JP6
- Thread starter whitestrat
- Start date
PeteDuBaldo
Well-known member
Lionel,
Give the truss rod a tweak first! Tightening it by 1 hole at a time will lower the action, while loosening it 1 hole at a time will raise it.
If that doesn't get you right about where you want to be, then turn the saddle screws small amounts. Make sure you turn them the same amount keeps them at the same radius as the fretboard. If the top of the tremolo plate is pretty much flush with the face of the body, and even from side to side, then do not touch the two big screws!
If all else fails, call EB CS or swing on over to your local tech
Give the truss rod a tweak first! Tightening it by 1 hole at a time will lower the action, while loosening it 1 hole at a time will raise it.
If that doesn't get you right about where you want to be, then turn the saddle screws small amounts. Make sure you turn them the same amount keeps them at the same radius as the fretboard. If the top of the tremolo plate is pretty much flush with the face of the body, and even from side to side, then do not touch the two big screws!
If all else fails, call EB CS or swing on over to your local tech
whitestrat
Well-known member
My neck is pretty straight. I've never adjusted the action after I first straightened the neck when I first got the guitar back in 06. I've never really looked at it much since then. But after playing with my preferred set up on my Silo Specs, Iv'e found the action on the JP6 a bit high. So I was wondering... Heh.
Spudmurphy
Well-known member
There is another way to look at it. To get a low action commonly means making two adjustments,
One of which is the truss rod as Pete says, another is the saddle heights.
Think of it this way, if you start with a dead flat neck and then start lowering the saddle heights to reduce the action, you will get to a stage when the string starts touching the frets giving you fret buzz. When a string vibrates it looks like this and as you can see the greatest part of the movement in the string (vibration) is towards the centre and it gets less towards the nut or saddle end.
So if you have lowered the saddle and the string starts fret buzz in the center of the string you can then loosen the truss rod, the strings will now pull against the neck and introduce a bow (concave) in the neck which will accommodate the extra string vibration mentioned above.
So in a nut shell,
low action = tweak to saddles only if you still want a straight neck.
low action =tweak to saddles and truss rod if you don't mind relief(concave bow) in the neck.
One of which is the truss rod as Pete says, another is the saddle heights.
Think of it this way, if you start with a dead flat neck and then start lowering the saddle heights to reduce the action, you will get to a stage when the string starts touching the frets giving you fret buzz. When a string vibrates it looks like this and as you can see the greatest part of the movement in the string (vibration) is towards the centre and it gets less towards the nut or saddle end.
So if you have lowered the saddle and the string starts fret buzz in the center of the string you can then loosen the truss rod, the strings will now pull against the neck and introduce a bow (concave) in the neck which will accommodate the extra string vibration mentioned above.
So in a nut shell,
low action = tweak to saddles only if you still want a straight neck.
low action =tweak to saddles and truss rod if you don't mind relief(concave bow) in the neck.
