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telemike

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Oct 8, 2009
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Greensboro, NC
I am going to change my SUB-1 from .009 to .010 strings very soon. Which way should turn the neck adjustment wheel to compensate for the change in neck tension? I know I'll have to change the spring tension on the vintage trem. Thanks.
 

Jack FFR1846

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You likely won't have to do much adjusting....but if you have too much bow, turn like you're screwing it in.....so from low E towards high e. I think you'll like it with 10's. I run them on everything but my floyded guitar.
 

telemike

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Thanks! I never know which way to turn the truss rod. Going to swap out the 'buckers and all I have laying around are some .010's for new strings.
 

TNT

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Yeah, as Jack said, it should be very very little (micro) tweaking. Also, be sure to gently "tap" the back of the neck (up and down), if you adjust the truss rod. This simply allows the rod to "seat" nice, firm & snug.
 

DrKev

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be sure to gently "tap" the back of the neck (up and down), if you adjust the truss rod. This simply allows the rod to "seat" nice, firm & snug.

Personally, I don't get the 'seating' argument. If there is any tension at all, the truss rod is already very snug in there. But wood is not a very elastic material and can be slow to react to the changes. That's where a little manipulation can be helpful. I put one hand behind the nut and one hand on the middle of the finger board and give a good bend (push or pulling the middle of the neck depending on what we need)! Personally, I don't think tapping can do anything useful at all (but that's just my little theory).

Of course, EBMM necks and truss rods are most excellent and I find that even small adjustments take full effect almost immediately. No need for additional manipulation at all.
 
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TNT

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DK,

Actually, it's an "excellent" little tip. It allows the wood to quickly set up its "new" profile (be it very little), rather than down the road when you hear almost an undescernable little "tick". I got this tip from a very well known and reputable San Luis Obispoian.:)
 
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