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chrismilne

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So i just got another brand new Axis because i love the body, the pickups, the neck....but the one downside is it seems difficult to get the action completely straight. My other Axis (mid 90's i bought used 20 years ago), i took in to try to fix a year or so ago and they had to add a shim but i think it was too much and their way to "fix" that was to angle the bridge backwards. I dont want to go down the same path with this one. It's great up until the 12th fret and then the action starts to rise a bit...will a truss rod tweak likely fix something like that or it cant be done without more shimming (i'm not great at setting up guitars, but will give the truss rod a try if that might be all it takes).

Thanks!
 

Spudmurphy

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It sounds like the shim needs to be altered. I had the same problem with a taylor acoustic and had the neck reset with a shim. Common practice on guitars with bolt on necks..
Its now as it should be.
 

Iperfungus

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I would check the neck.
Maybe you just need to tighten the trussrod, because the neck's too much in upbow and this can affect action as well.
 

GoKart Mozart

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What is the relief like on the neck? It definitely sounds like it has too much. Since it is a decked Floyd, pretty much all adjustments to the action are done with the truss rod and shimming the neck pocket.

I'll echo tbone's statement; with a decked Floyd you're very limited on action adjustments since the individual string height isn't adjustable (well, aside from aftermarket metal shims on the saddles but in my experience those aren't always necessary). The saddles are machined to match a specific radius, so you're sort of stuck with that when it comes to string height adjustments at the bridge.

A lot of people will mistakenly tell you to not use the truss rod for action adjustments but you just about have to on this type guitar. I usually start with a piece of business card in the heel end for a shim and then use the truss rod to fine tune the action. However, since this is a new guitar and was likely shimmed at the factory, you probably just need a minor truss rod tweak to get your action "better".

Best thing you can do is get a machinist's rule that's divided into 64th increments and measure the string height at the 17th fret; that'll help better convey what the actual action is.
 

Iperfungus

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I'll echo tbone's statement; with a decked Floyd you're very limited on action adjustments since the individual string height isn't adjustable (well, aside from aftermarket metal shims on the saddles but in my experience those aren't always necessary). The saddles are machined to match a specific radius, so you're sort of stuck with that when it comes to string height adjustments at the bridge.

A lot of people will mistakenly tell you to not use the truss rod for action adjustments but you just about have to on this type guitar. I usually start with a piece of business card in the heel end for a shim and then use the truss rod to fine tune the action. However, since this is a new guitar and was likely shimmed at the factory, you probably just need a minor truss rod tweak to get your action "better".

Best thing you can do is get a machinist's rule that's divided into 64th increments and measure the string height at the 17th fret; that'll help better convey what the actual action is.
I ALWAYS work on saddles AND trussrod when I do setup a guitar or bass. They are different sides of the same medal.
 

GoKart Mozart

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I ALWAYS work on saddles AND trussrod when I do setup a guitar or bass. They are different sides of the same medal.

Good for you, and I expect most would also do the same. But given that the OP has stated that he isn’t great at setting up guitars, I don’t believe that going down the road of trying to adjust the individual Floyd Rose saddles via trial and error with metal saddle shims is going to be of much benefit to him at this point since it’s a lot more complicated than just turning grub screws on a regular bridge with adjustable saddles.
 

Iperfungus

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Good for you, and I expect most would also do the same. But given that the OP has stated that he isn’t great at setting up guitars, I don’t believe that going down the road of trying to adjust the individual Floyd Rose saddles via trial and error with metal saddle shims is going to be of much benefit to him at this point since it’s a lot more complicated than just turning grub screws on a regular bridge with adjustable saddles.
Of course! I wouldn't state anything different.
I meant, instead, that in that case I would work on neck's curvature adjustment (eventually, adding a shim under neck's heel, as suggested as well), before starting messin' up with saddles! :)
In any case, if he feels not confident with trussrod adjustment, I would ask a good luthier/guitar tech.
 

chrismilne

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Thanks so much everyone for the advice and info! I did tighten the truss rod and it made some improvements, though not dead straight like my Suhr (or even Silhouette Special). I will try to measure later and let you know those measurements! Thanks.

I would think if it were shim related it would come from the factory correct, though this guitar was built a year or two ago i believe and has sat in a case.

IMG_3259 (1).jpg
 

Iperfungus

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Thanks so much everyone for the advice and info! I did tighten the truss rod and it made some improvements, though not dead straight like my Suhr (or even Silhouette Special). I will try to measure later and let you know those measurements! Thanks.

I would think if it were shim related it would come from the factory correct, though this guitar was built a year or two ago i believe and has sat in a case.

View attachment 43193
What an awesome top there!!!
Does the trussrod came to the end of its run? Or do you have some more to give it another 1/4 or 1/2 of a turn?
If there's some more to tigthen the trussrod a little more, I would let the neck have some rest for a couple of hours and then give another 1/2 of a turn.
Trussrod adjustment it's an easy operation on EBMM necks, thank God and The Ball Family!
 
Last edited:

chrismilne

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What an awesome top there!!!
Does the trussrod came to the end of its run? Or do you have some more to give it another 1/4 or 1/2 of a turn?
If there's some more to tigthen the trussrod a little more, I would let the neck have some rest for a couple of hours and then give another 1/2 of a turn.
Trussrod adjustment it's an easy operation on EBMM necks, thank God and The Ball Family!
It could probably go more but felt a little tight there...safe to push another 1/4 to 1/2?
 

nervous

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It could probably go more but felt a little tight there...safe to push another 1/4 to 1/2?
A half is a lot, and a quarter at this stage may be too much. The Axis rods move pretty easily so if it is currently mong easily in both directions I'd recommend you stop when you hit any significant resistance. Much of this is moot if you don't have relief measurement references to see what your changes are doing.

This is how I do a quick and easy no tool check



That will at least let you quickly know if you have too much, too little or in the ballpark, and the ballpark is around a business card gap when you tap.
 

DrKev

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Yes, you can tighten the truss rod a little more but you should never have to use a lot of force that you start worrying about bending tools. And of course reducing neck relief will increase chances of fret buzz so that may not work out. But feel free to shim, it's not a difficult job and something you can happily do yourself. To avoid taking the strings off, I detune them to almost slack and then put a capo on the guitar neck at the 5th fret, which keeps the strings in place and stops them tangling or flopping around. Just make sure you use the right size screw driver in good condition for the neck screws, and don't over tighten them when doing it all back up.

You can buy a set of Music Man shims here.
 

chrismilne

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Thanks. For some reason that terrifies me, usually when i do things like that it doesnt end well
 
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