I was discussing that with "radiotrib" at page 6 of the "sticky" serial thread.
In addition, when you loosen the tuners, there's no need to unwind the strings completely. Put a capo on the first fret first to hold them in place.
If you do want to remove the strings from the posts, just lift the wound portions off the posts. They'll come off as coils and can be replaced the same way when retuning latter.
The micro tilt wont present any problems and there's no need to touch it.
Perhaps the most important thing is the replacement of the neck bolts which I mentioned in the serial thread.
I got these tips from the G&L setup manual, which are good for 3-bolt necks especially.
When you are putting the neck back on, tighten all 3 bolts, put the strings back on and tune them up. Now that the strings have tension, loosen the 3 bolts slightly which should help the neck reseat into the pocket.
You also want to make sure the neck is straight in the pocket. To do this snug the bolts down a little so you can just barely move the neck from side-to-side. Turn the bass over so the strings are facing up, with the body towards you and the headstock away from you. Look down the neck and make sure there is even spacing between the two outermost strings (E and G) and the edge of the fingerboard. The way I do it is to hold the headstock between my feet, and move the body sideways each direction until the strings are centered. The tricky part for me is to try and keep that alignment while tightening the 3 bolts back down. It may take one or two attempts, but you will end up with a nice straight neck which is snug in the pocket.
You want to end up with the 3 neck bolts nice and snug, but be careful not to overtighten.
For those with 4 bolt necks, the straighting part isn't really necessary, but you may still want to loosen and retighten the bolts with the strings tuned to tension. For the 6 bolt necks, I just bolt it up once and go, nothing else required.