• Ernie Ball
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nervous

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 9, 2014
Messages
354
Location
Central NY
One of my favorite features of my Luke 3 was the onboard push/push boost option. Had never had the before and found it very useful playing live. So I set off to find a similar option for my Axis Sport(s) and came upon the BECOS FX Micro Booster MK4 Onboard Guitar Preamp with Push-Push Switch-Pot, uBST4 (w/ 500k pot in my dual humbucker application).

Micro Booster MK4 Onboard Guitar Preamp with Push-Push Switch-Pot

They indicate that they are normally available in the USA from Guitar Hero but because of parts shortages, namely the 500k pot/switch, they remain unavailable.

BECOS FX Micro Booster MK4 Onboard Guitar Preamp with Push-Push Switch-Pot, 250K (for Single Coil)

In my searching and research there are limited discussions on this forum of the item but info is generally scarce. I started chatting with the company a few months ago and with no other equivalent options available I decided to wait it out. They recently became available again so I direct ordered one from the mfg in Austria. My experience with them from the start has been exceptional, very communicative with fast, detailed responses and very helpful overall. And very patient with a hack like me. From order to international delivery I was kept informed of every step of the build and shipping process. Very professional.

This is the unit:
IMG_5038.jpg
IMG_5039.jpg

And the connectors:
IMG_5041.jpg

I really had no idea about the size, fit, wiring, etc but decided to give it a try. First thing I notice is the unit is a bit bigger than I expected, not a lot but enough to initially give me concerns about fitting it into the control cavity. Second were the large "EMG" style pin and socket connectors, which I have a love/hate relationship with. And in this case that was the same. They are long and spindly with pretty limited grip so while they connect fine when stationary they are very fiddly and like to slide apart when being moved. So during installation when wrangling a multitude of various wires, many with delicate and tenuous connections already, it's just an added degree of frustration.

During the initial dry fit I immediately discovered there are two install options. 1) as you will see my final choice, or 2) turned the opposite direction with the label side parallel with the selector/super switch. Both present challenges in wire routing due to the size of the aforementioned pin connectors. In my selected position the pot hole is just a bit too close to the cavity wall for the booster to slide in at the correct 90* angle. So that required some wood removal in that area to allow sufficient space. A bit tricky with the pickup wiring in place but I had no desire to do a full disassembly to do this work.

I know that it's not the prettiest woodworking effort but this is the result:
IMG_5079.jpg

And the fit.
IMG_5080.jpg

The wires, as expected, are fine, tricky to strip and solder, much like the pickup wires. I liken this type of wire to soldering hair. Just a generally unhappy experience for me every time. And if you don't immobilize them before moving on those new connections do not tolerate or survive very much repeated motion or flexing before failing. This one fought me on many fronts. I did as much pre-installation testing off the guitar to insure I had my connection plan sorted but even then my first try into the guitar yielded me an always on volume control. After more testing the second try, with some substantial disconnecting, rewiring and coaxing the entire bundle of uncooperative connections into something sensible, I had a successful installation. I was also able to splice in my usual treble bleed.

This is the result:
IMG_5094.jpg
IMG_5095.jpg

I'll report back after I tweak the internals to my liking and test on a couple jobs. The unit offers up to 25db of onboard boost, and has onboard boost or cut bass and treble controls that are zeroed at 12 o'clock and it's true bypass, not battery dependent with the boost circuit disengaged which is a nice peace of mind. I am optimistic.
 

PeteDuBaldo

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 16, 2004
Messages
10,183
Location
Central Connecticut (Manchester) USA
Great job!

Having a true bypass boost is ideal, and you are dead on with those connectors - they loosen or fall off at the drop of a hat!

Back in November I installed an EMG boost in my Dargie 2 Gold Roller. Fortunately no wood-working was required, and I was able to fit the battery inside the control cavity.

I added the boost because of the noticeably lower output of the GR compared to my JP guitars while gigging. The GR is most commonly used for drop-D and as a backup if a string breaks on the JP. There are a few drop-D songs where I utilize feedback for sustain, and in these songs I also incorporate volume swells with delays. This was difficult to accomplish with the GR in factory configuration.

The adjustable boost has allowed me to make a more transparent change between the JP and GR guitars. I have it set to "always on" with the switch also hidden in the control cavity because I hate adding holes that might not be necessary.
 
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