- Thread starter CptCrunch
- Start date
Yea it can, it's a bit of a pain but it can. I had to adjust mine (again) just today. You have to angle the back of the trem up rather than having the bridge parallel to the guitar body. If your trem sits enough above the body top, perhaps you can adjust it to be parallel, but for me with my guitar and my action the front of the trem is almost on the body so the back has to be angled up a bit to get it to float.
I can't stand a trem that rests on the guitar. IMO using a trem is HAS to float. And these Axis guitars are great guitars, I really can't believe they don't make 'em with a cavity I gotta get someone to mod mine.
Good luck.
I can't stand a trem that rests on the guitar. IMO using a trem is HAS to float. And these Axis guitars are great guitars, I really can't believe they don't make 'em with a cavity I gotta get someone to mod mine.
Good luck.
DrKev
Moderator
Some indentations may occur over time, yes. The floyds on an axis could leave marks too. On my Silhouette Special it's two small marks under the back corners of the trem plate.
Remember, if you set up any trem so it doesn't move when you bend a string, then you necessarily have some excess backward force from the trem springs. Over time the harder metal will leave indentations in the softer finish. The only way you can minimise any pressure on the top from the trem is to set the claw springs to almost barely float the trem. And of course if we depress the trem and let go and let it fly back into normal position on it's own, it will probably hit the surface and leave marks that way.
Fortunately, I doubt that these unavoidable marks under the trem have any significant effect on resale value for the majority of people on the market. Personally, I don't see a good reason to worry about it but that's just me.
Remember, if you set up any trem so it doesn't move when you bend a string, then you necessarily have some excess backward force from the trem springs. Over time the harder metal will leave indentations in the softer finish. The only way you can minimise any pressure on the top from the trem is to set the claw springs to almost barely float the trem. And of course if we depress the trem and let go and let it fly back into normal position on it's own, it will probably hit the surface and leave marks that way.
Fortunately, I doubt that these unavoidable marks under the trem have any significant effect on resale value for the majority of people on the market. Personally, I don't see a good reason to worry about it but that's just me.
ok Dr...thanks a TON. big decision here for me.
is it possible to make the FLOYD float on an axis by simply loosening the trem springs a tad along with a few other fine-tuning adjustments- stud height etc? or do you have to shim the neck?
i am close to buying an axis and can't make up my freaking mind, cant find any to play in person arrgghhhh!!!
but a floating trem is important to my playing style...any more insight would be welcome.
is it possible to make the FLOYD float on an axis by simply loosening the trem springs a tad along with a few other fine-tuning adjustments- stud height etc? or do you have to shim the neck?
i am close to buying an axis and can't make up my freaking mind, cant find any to play in person arrgghhhh!!!
but a floating trem is important to my playing style...any more insight would be welcome.
beej
Moderator
The vintage trem works well when it's set up to float. The Luke, for example, comes from the factory so you can pull up a minor third on the G string.
nobozos
Well-known member
I wouldn't advise it on a Floyd. On a vintage trem, you can adjust the saddle height to compensate for the different angle of the trem. This allows you to maintain the correct string radius with the angled trem configuration. Bridge saddles on a Floyd don't have the height adjustment, so adjusting the intonation will actually change the string height, and throw off your string radius.
I know you can buy saddle shims for a Floyd, but they won't help you with this problem. A saddle shim will raise the entire bridge saddle level with the base plate. On a vintage trem, the height adjustment screws are in the front of the trem, and the pivot point is the intonation screw at the back of the trem. This configuration allows you to basically keep the saddles level with the strings while the base plate is angled. If you use the saddle shims on the Floyd, the saddles will be level with the base plate, and not with the strings.
The best way to float your Floyd is to raise it with the pivot bolts, and shim the neck to compensate. For the best tuning stability, playability and operation, the Floyd should always be parallel to the body.
