AXIS vs AXIS EX vs EVH taste test

[drop_d]

The latest addition to my EBMM family came today. A pretty natural flametop SLO (San Luis Obispo) Axis. I A/Bed it with my AXIS EX (assembled here in Japan) and EVH. The system I ran it through is my recording rig Soldano SP-77 preamp, G-Force, Gibson Echoplex, Groove Tubes Dual 75 Power Amp (w/KT88s) into speaker isolation (randall ripoff) cabs R/Eminence Swamp Thang L/Celestion G12T-75 miked with SM-57s fed into a mackie onyx 1220.

Here are the photos, with a bit of the rig showing behind the black EVH:

http://homepage.mac.com/drop_d/myebmms/PhotoAlbum12.html

There was very little difference in sound between the Axes. As I mentioned in other posts, the EVH needs some work before it can even consider competing (action is too high, thus strings too far from pickups, a shim under the neck (factory) which probably isn't helping things, floyd rose angled toward the neck--in an attempt to lower the action, but certainly not helping the sound), the Axes on the other hand are both set up with the same strings--9s (I'll have to set them both up with 10s before I can play them seriously). The only real differences in sound were the SLO Axis had a broader variation in sound between the front and rear pups. The front pup on the SLO sounded slightly more stratish (front pup) than the EX. The EX had slightly higher output (just a few dBs, but higher), and the rear pup, probably as a result, pushed the amp a little more, but the SLO was slightly brighter sounding in the rear pup.

I liked the sound of the rear pup of the EX a little better than the SLO, and the front pup of the SLO better than the EX. Very subjective. The SLO feels about slightly lighter than the EX, but I don't have any way to confirm this. They are both very good sounding guitars though, if I was forced to choose between the two, I'd keep the SLO (I paid more for it and I prefer natural to pink) but, I've got a lot of guitars I would get rid before I'd part with either of these (or the EVH, for that matter--I've got pretty high hopes for that one).

I don't know if this info was any help to the people who wanted a comparison. But those were my first impressions.

dd

 

[spkirby]

Thanks drop_d...I'll be doing my own comparison after christmas when my ones are finally in the same country! Does the EX have a "belly contour" on the top rear edge like the Axis does or is it flat like the EVH? Just interested

Steve

 

[drop_d]

The EX body is identical to the EVH. Same switch position, no contour, no recessed neck plate. If I didn't know any better (and I don't) I'd say that it looked like EBMM had a bunch of surplus EVH bodies shipped over to Japan to be assembled as EXs. Praps one of the EB people know the scoop. I haven't removed the EX neck, so I'm not 100% certain, but the maple top looks like it's the same thickness as the AXIS and the EVH.

dd

 

[hbucker]

On your EVH, drop the bridge back down to the face of the guitar. Then put a thicker (ever so slightly thicker) shim in the neck. That raises the bottom of the neck and exponentially drops the nut. Your action will improve greatly.

Neck relief is also a factor. Make sure you only have a slight bow in the neck.

Doing these steps should return your EVH to great playing shape. The shimming may take some experimentation but you'll get it right eventually. Guitar picks work well for shimming material. I've also used copper shielding tape with good results but these are certainly not the only options. The shim EBMM puts in at the factory is plastic.

good luck.

 

[Glassmoon]

just be aware that when you shim it you'll be working against the radius of the neck, which is very curved. so the d and g strings will be buzzing if you shim too much, since they're closer to the fretboard than the others. I used a business card for the neck pocket shim and adjusted the relief to counter the upper fret buzz. and, as long as you don't go too far, you won't get fretting out. I usually like a straight neck, but with the evh it just isn't possible since I use heavier strings than 8's or 9's like eddie used.

anyway, thx for the comparison. fun stuff!

 

[PurpleSport]

Thanks for the review...nicely done!

You forgot something though: how do the neck feels compare?

Know it's a little tough with the actions being a bit out of sorts, just wondering if the widths/thicknesses/fingerboard radii/backside contours have any noticeable variances...

 

[drop_d]

The guy at Kanda Shokai who does work on EBMMs locally (prolly Osaka's version of Jongitar) will be setting the EVH up for me. He'll be sanding down the pocket for me. Something I don't dare do myself.

As far as the necks go, I really couldn't feel a difference in the actual size thickness or radius. I can tell them apart with my eyes closed due to varying degrees of "greasiness," but that's all.

dd

 

[hbucker]

I'm wondering why you're having the neck pocket sanded down when the action is already too high?

Seems like a logical question.

 

[jongitarz]

Good question

 

[drop_d]

I wondered about that myself. When I pressed him for an explanation, he said that sanding the pocket slightly on the nut side would adjust the angle of the neck, bring more of the neck in solid contact with the body and bring the action down. Does that sound plausible?

dd

 

[Glassmoon]

i see what the guy's saying, it will bring the higher frets to lower action. it's basically like using the micro-tilt adjustment but can't be reversed without shimming. I personally wouldn't do it, but hey..I guess it makes sense. let us know how it goes, bud.

 

[hbucker]

Dude. I seriously would recommend shimming instead of permanently altering your neck pocket. Shims can always be changed as wood expands and contracts should that be necessary.

I also agree with the idea of creating more contact. But honestly, I doubt you'll be able to hear the difference. And if it were that big of a deal why would Music Man make shims a part of the guitar's design in the first place?

Do what you can to fix the problem by non permanent means before you let him sand anything. I don't think you'll regret it. Look at my previous post on how to fix your problem and ask us whatever questions you may have. It's not a hard thing to do. It just takes a little trial and error.

 

[Dodgeball]

Dude. I seriously would recommend shimming instead of permanently altering your neck pocket. Shims can always be changed as wood expands and contracts should that be necessary.

I also agree with the idea of creating more contact. But honestly, I doubt you'll be able to hear the difference. And if it were that big of a deal why would Music Man make shims a part of the guitar's design in the first place?

Do what you can to fix the problem by non permanent means before you let him sand anything. I don't think you'll regret it. Look at my previous post on how to fix your problem and ask us whatever questions you may have. It's not a hard thing to do. It just takes a little trial and error.

I agree.

 

[JFRICK]

A couple of years ago I noticed the action on my EVH was higher than it had been, so I took it the the local tech. I though it just needed some adjustments, set-up, but the shim that is under the neck had compressed and needed replaced. It was replaced and I got my low action back.

 

[drop_d]

Good point. I'll make some shims and see how they work as soon as I either get my trem back from the friend who is replating it or a replacement off ebay.

Very pretty EVH, by the way, hbucker. I checked out the bigger photos.

dd