Help! Best measurement tools for Stingray Special HH?

[LowFrequenC]

Hi all!

Trying to learn to make minor truss rod and saddle adjustments myself. Already own the Allen wrenches and what not.

My SR HH neck radius is 11” and they don’t seem to make under-string gauges in that size. Also, every ruler I’ve looked for doesn’t seem to have the increments I’d need to properly set string action.

Please help!

 

[five7]

I do it by feel on all of mine.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Welcome to the Forum.

The Ernie Ball Shop sells a zipped pouch tool kit for maintaining instruments. I can't see it in the EB Shop at the moment. Email Customer Service to see if they're still available and if you can purchase one:

[email protected]


For string height, you need to measure the distance from the bottom of the string to the top of the pickup magnets for each string. I use a good quality 6 inch steel ruler with mm and inch fraction increments. This is in the said tool kit. Otherwise, you should be able to get one from a hardware store.

I don't use a string gauge but if you can't find an 11 inch then I'd go for one close to it.

 

[DrKev]

My two cents...

Radius gauges are nice to have in the toolbox for a few rare occasions, but mine just don't get used. I'm faster and more accurate with a string action gauge or engineers rule. The Dunlop string action gauge is 40% off on Amazon right now, where you can also find quality steel rules with 64ths for $10. Also note that you really don't need super high rules and can happily read in between 32nds to approximate 64ths. (If you are working in metric, note that each 1/2 mm line on an engineers rule are about 1/4 mm wide so reading to that precision is easy).

The Ernie Ball toolkit is nice, there are many other out there too. I replaced the stock steel rule with an old favorite, added feeler gauges, a capo, string action gauge, folding headstock support, small brush, etc. It's amazing what you can fit in there!

 

[LowFrequenC]

Welcome to the Forum.

The Ernie Ball Shop sells a zipped pouch tool kit for maintaining instruments. I can't see it in the EB Shop at the moment. Email Customer Service to see if they're still available and if you can purchase one:

[email protected]


For string height, you need to measure the distance from the bottom of the string to the top of the pickup magnets for each string. I use a good quality 6 inch steel ruler with mm and inch fraction increments. This is in the said tool kit. Otherwise, you should be able to get one from a hardware store.

I don't use a string gauge but if you can't find an 11 inch then I'd go for one close to it.

My two cents...

Radius gauges are nice to have in the toolbox for a few rare occasions, but mine just don't get used. I'm faster and more accurate with a string action gauge or engineers rule. The Dunlop string action gauge is 40% off on Amazon right now, where you can also find quality steel rules with 64ths for $10. Also note that you really don't need super high rules and can happily read in between 32nds to approximate 64ths. (If you are working in metric, note that each 1/2 mm line on an engineers rule are about 1/4 mm wide so reading to that precision is easy).

The Ernie Ball toolkit is nice, there are many other out there too. I replaced the stock steel rule with an old favorite, added feeler gauges, a capo, string action gauge, folding headstock support, small brush, etc. It's amazing what you can fit in there!

Thank you both so much!

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Stick around!

You're asking the same questions I used to ask. Keep asking

 

[LowFrequenC]

Stick around!

You're asking the same questions I used to ask. Keep asking

Don’t worry! I’m a StingRay guy for life. Just waiting for Special HH in Sparkle White with ebony fingerboard and black HW. Too bad they don’t do custom commissions.

 

[N4860]

You can probably pretty easily just make your own radius gauge. I think you could just take a string, tie a pencil to the end, and then measure 11" and cut the string. Anchor the side opposite the pencil to a surface and then pull tight and draw a curve line with the pencil. Do this on some thick card stock or cardboard and cut it out for your 11" radius.

 

[gluvhand]

I've seen printable stencils available on-line.

 

[Golem]

I dont have a radius gauge or know what its for, but if "pretty close" is good enough then obviously you could get that from the edge of a 12 inch vinyl LP record. I never measure anything but I do know the purpose of each possible adjustment so I can set up by ear and by feel. FWIW, I always thought my method was SOP.

 

[LowFrequenC]

Thanks for all the replies, everyone.

I spoke to the tech from MM, and he said that if I keep the height measurements from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of each string the same, the radius will automatically be accounted for, which makes complete sense.

I have now set up and intonated 3 of my MM basses and I’m pretty stoked.

 

[Rod Trussbroken]

Thanks for all the replies, everyone.

I spoke to the tech from MM, and he said that if I keep the height measurements from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of each string the same, the radius will automatically be accounted for, which makes complete sense.

I have now set up and intonated 3 of my MM basses and I’m pretty stoked.

 

[danny-79]

I’ve got all sorts, rulers, feeler gauges, purpose made gauges.
a decent metal ruler is about my favourite but even with that I usually end up arguing with it and doing something different anyways but for the initial set up, metal ruler

 

[Golem]

Thanks for all the replies, everyone.

I spoke to the tech from MM, and he said that if I keep the height measurements from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of each string the same, the radius will automatically be accounted for, which makes complete sense.

I have now set up and intonated 3 of my MM basses and I’m pretty stoked.

I do approximately that same thing, except I set each string, moving toward the G, just a bit closer than its thicker neighbor. This doesnt exactly copy the radius but it gets me a bit lower action and it feels natural radius-wise.

The thinner strings have more tension and less mass so they can be set lower without buzzing, and I like to take advantage of that. If you were to start out with all strings intentionally too low, and then raise each string until it just stops buzzing, then youd wind up with my usual set up.

 

[nebadon]

From EBMM FAQ;

"The rest of the strings should have the radius of the fretboard when looking at the top of the string, (with the A string hidden from view by the E string, etc.), rotating the bass at the same time. The "right" string height is, of course, ultimately determined by your playing style."

I use this method [even with non EBMM Basses] works out great feel and playability seem natural.; only very small difference from E to A and G to D when measured

 

[gluvhand]

String height is measured from the bottom of the string to the top of the frets. Pickup height is measured to the bottom the string to the top of the pickup poles, IIRC. Don't go chasing your tail adjusting action to the pickup.

 

[nebadon]

String height is measured from the bottom of the string to the top of the frets. Pickup height is measured to the bottom the string to the top of the pickup poles, IIRC. Don't go chasing your tail adjusting action to the pickup.

According to EB pickup height is measured from pickup cover not poles to bottom of string and 'no' fretting last fret

 

[gluvhand]

According to EB pickup height is measured from pickup cover not poles to bottom of string and 'no' fretting last fret

Fair enough. On two of my, 3 the cover and pole pieces are even/flush. The only one that has staggered poles is my US SUB.

 

[nebadon]

Fair enough. On two of my, 3 the cover and pole pieces are even/flush. The only one that has staggered poles is my US SUB.

Yes, my Stingray Special pole pieces are only a tad above cover