Question Bongo Maintanance Query - Replacement Jack

mammoth

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2006
Messages
327
Location
Stoke, England
Hi!

I don't want to replace Jack himself, but after a good few years of getting dirtyfunk on my Bongo, i think I have an issue with the Input jack. When playing, occasionally I lose all signal etc. 99% of the time she's more beautiful than ever (yes, flats rule on the bongo)

This is totally self induced as I've definitely beaten the body of bass a few times when "in the zone*"

Where would I be able to get hold of replacement? Any suggestions or assistance would be most gracefully gratified!

Meanwhile, I'm giging Ritchies old Buttercreeme Sterling tonight... Excalibur is starting to grow on me!! :D

Thanks Guys n Gals, good vibes all round

Col

*in the zone definition: P*ssed a rat
 
Last edited:
It's a barrel jack, and nothing against EBMM or anything, but every bass with a barrel jack i've ever owned, has had the jack crap out on me at some point, so i'm not really surprised.

You should be able to et a replacement from EBMM customer service.
 
thanks for the info pal, but I doubt a 5+ year old bass would develop this issue as a manufactured problem?? It's definitely been helped on by me... should i still be calling the lovely customer service dept?

Cheers!!
 
Call CS. Barrel jacks should run you about 400 dollars.

Just kidding! (I need one, too.)

Jack

PS: Oops. Forgot you were in Merry Olde. Call Strings-N-Things!
 
Sweet sweeet saweeeet!

My local store will be able to help me then, although Strings and Things just released a list of 2nd hand Bongos available in the UK at great prices!! eeek!!! twitchy credit card....

many thanks as ever gentlefellows!!!
 
thanks for the info pal, but I doubt a 5+ year old bass would develop this issue as a manufactured problem?? It's definitely been helped on by me... should i still be calling the lovely customer service dept?

Cheers!!
Barrel jacks just have a tendancy to wear out mate, nowt you can do about it, trust me!
 
I've owned a few basses with barrel jacks over the years and I've learned something really important about how they fail, why they fail, and what to do about it.

The nut that retains the jack is inside the body cavity, unlike the plate-mounted jacks used on instruments like the Stingray and Sterling.

Over time, these nuts tend to loosen. I'm sure many if not most of us have experienced this.

On a plate-mounted jack rectifying this is easy. You take the back plate off, hold onto the jack inside the cavity to keep it from moving, and tighten the nut.

But with a barrel jack this is very, very difficult to do for a number of reasons. For one thing, it's hard to get a proper hold on the jack body. For another, it's almost impossible to grab onto the nut.

Finally, often the spot in the cavity where the jack is located is often curved, which means the nut doesn't have much to grab onto anyway...which means it loosens easier.

So...when the jack gets loose it can move, and that stresses the solder joints on the wires, which causes them to fail. I think that's the primary failure mode.

To prevent this, once you've got a new jack in place, is simple. Buy some blue threadlocker (LocTite or similar) and apply it to the threads. Ideally you should do this at the time of installation. If you've got a jack that works, for best results you should loosen the nut, apply and then retighten, but this in itself poses a problem (see above). You can also just put a bit on the threads right where the nut is. This will prevent the nut from loosening.

Done.
 
I've owned a few basses with barrel jacks over the years and I've learned something really important about how they fail, why they fail, and what to do about it.

The nut that retains the jack is inside the body cavity, unlike the plate-mounted jacks used on instruments like the Stingray and Sterling.

Over time, these nuts tend to loosen. I'm sure many if not most of us have experienced this.

On a plate-mounted jack rectifying this is easy. You take the back plate off, hold onto the jack inside the cavity to keep it from moving, and tighten the nut.

But with a barrel jack this is very, very difficult to do for a number of reasons. For one thing, it's hard to get a proper hold on the jack body. For another, it's almost impossible to grab onto the nut.

Finally, often the spot in the cavity where the jack is located is often curved, which means the nut doesn't have much to grab onto anyway...which means it loosens easier.

So...when the jack gets loose it can move, and that stresses the solder joints on the wires, which causes them to fail. I think that's the primary failure mode.

To prevent this, once you've got a new jack in place, is simple. Buy some blue threadlocker (LocTite or similar) and apply it to the threads. Ideally you should do this at the time of installation. If you've got a jack that works, for best results you should loosen the nut, apply and then retighten, but this in itself poses a problem (see above). You can also just put a bit on the threads right where the nut is. This will prevent the nut from loosening.

Done.

Any idea how to fix a bent knob on a Bongo?:D
 
whats the main difference between a stingray's jack and a bongo's (barrel) jack besides the way they look?
 
Switchcraft_Output_Jack.jpg


Flush-mount_Output_Jack.jpg


The barrel jack's nut is inside the body.
 
The point IMHO is whether the nut is inside or outside the body, not whether it's a switched jack.

If outside, it's much easier to keep tight. If tight, then there is no stress on the solder connections and the jack won't fail, ever.

This isn't a workmanship/quality control issue...every single barrel jack-equipped bass I've ever owned has had the jack loosen over time if I don't do something to stop it from happening.
 
hey fellas,

called my store > they called Strings and things > they starting chatting and mentioned it's for a forum member > Blind Lemon gets involved and I've got a free barrel jack on the way!!

Love ya Mr Lemon
 
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