My 'Ray developed a buzzing noise some time ago but the problem passed. A couple of days ago the noise started again, this is some 5-6 months after the previous noise started. It only occurs on the 8th fret on the A string, but doesnt happen if I push my fretting finger down as hard as I can, or if I rest my finger on any fret lower than the 8th. Its annoying because the sound also comes through the output, so its getting recorded. Anyone got any ideas??
- Thread starter element
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prickly_pete
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Your neck is too straight, you need to give it a little relief. Turn the truss rod adjuster 1/4 turn counter clockwise.
I tried that but its still doing it, although it could be possible that its not as bad... Im a bit scared with the whole truss rod adjustments, so I won't touch it again unless instructed to do so 
but thanks for the help so far
but thanks for the help so far 
bovinehost
Administrator
Sometimes it takes a while for the wood to react to the adjustment.
bovinehost
Administrator
Another crisis averted.
prickly_pete
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Glad to help Element. A wooden neck bass will require seasonal truss rod adjustments (or if you change gauge/brand of strings) if you are picky about your setup -- read low action, minimal fret buzz. The EBMM truss rod wheel is the best in the buisness and makes periodoc adjustments a snap. Jack is absolutely correct that a truss rod adjustment may take a while to settle in, and I should have mentioned that in my first post to your question. btw, just don't go crazy with the adjustments, and you should be ok; never more than 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn either way.
FYI, a guitar neck must have some relief (forward bow) to play well with medium to low action. If you fret the e-string at the 2nd fret and the 16th fret, you should be able to see some light between the bottom of the string at the 7th fret and the top of that fret. There is no perfect setup with respect to relief, each player is different, and that is why you should be able to do a basic setup yourself. Personally, I like low action, so I have my necks fairly straight. You can use feeler gauges to measure the distance between the string bottom and fret top, and you get recommended measurements from EB.
A basic setup would go like this: Adjust the truss rod to spec, adjust the action (height) for each string at the bridge, then adjust the intonation -- in that order. Then set the pickup height (the spec for the pickup height is also available from EB). After you get this stuff setup for YOUR playing style, and if you don't change guage/brand of strings, you should really never have to adjust anything but the truss rod again (seasonal adjustment).
There is a section in the EB FAQs that discusses basic setup including truss rod adjustments.
I have setup my basses for years and I am comfortable replacing frets, leveling fretboards, grinding and polishing, etc. A basic setup -- neck relief, bridge saddle height, and intonation is dirt simple with a little experience. Grinding and polishing is pretty straight forward too with the correct tools (and if you buy new Fender instruments you better buy some crowning files, because you will need them to get those dogs playing well).
Be brave!
FYI, a guitar neck must have some relief (forward bow) to play well with medium to low action. If you fret the e-string at the 2nd fret and the 16th fret, you should be able to see some light between the bottom of the string at the 7th fret and the top of that fret. There is no perfect setup with respect to relief, each player is different, and that is why you should be able to do a basic setup yourself. Personally, I like low action, so I have my necks fairly straight. You can use feeler gauges to measure the distance between the string bottom and fret top, and you get recommended measurements from EB.
A basic setup would go like this: Adjust the truss rod to spec, adjust the action (height) for each string at the bridge, then adjust the intonation -- in that order. Then set the pickup height (the spec for the pickup height is also available from EB). After you get this stuff setup for YOUR playing style, and if you don't change guage/brand of strings, you should really never have to adjust anything but the truss rod again (seasonal adjustment).
There is a section in the EB FAQs that discusses basic setup including truss rod adjustments.
I have setup my basses for years and I am comfortable replacing frets, leveling fretboards, grinding and polishing, etc. A basic setup -- neck relief, bridge saddle height, and intonation is dirt simple with a little experience. Grinding and polishing is pretty straight forward too with the correct tools (and if you buy new Fender instruments you better buy some crowning files, because you will need them to get those dogs playing well
).Be brave!
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stingrayplayr83
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Pete.... Do you know how to paint basses?
prickly_pete
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stingrayplayr83 said:Pete.... Do you know how to paint basses?
I don't do any painting... what is the eye roll all about?
I worked at a music store for about 10 years while in college and grad school, and I did all of our repair work.
