• Ernie Ball
  • MusicMan
  • Sterling by MusicMan
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Mar 12, 2008
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Just changed strings on my JP6 - took them all off. Restrung the guitar and now the tension is out of whack - it's pulling the bridge too far forward. Used to play a Charvel with floating Floyd without problems. Did some poking around and there are mixed feelings out there on HOW to change the strings - mainly keeping the tension.

Is there an easy way to get it back the way it was? God I miss my guitar already.

Thanks!
 

MikeVt

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What gauge did you put on, and what gauge was on it before you changed them? I'm assuming you didn't mess with the trem claw either, right?

Keep in mind that John has been switching between 9s and 10s over the past year or two, and amazingly enough, EB has been keeping up. If you got one with 9s on it and you put on 10s, that might explain what you are seeing. If you are sure you restrung it with the same gauge, it might be worth a call to CS. From an overall tuning perspective, it's an iterative process the same as with a Floyd. I've taken all the strings off my JP's a number of times, and while the floating bridge does make it more difficult to get back in tune, I've never had a problem getting it there and having the bridge end up in the same position.

Mike
 
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koogie2k

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Changing string gauges will add or take away tension.

Did you change the string gauge?

Also, you may need to adjust the trem claw.
 
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Thanks for the reply...

I put 10's on it. I'm sure it had 10's on it before too – I've always played 9's and these are much tighter. I didn't touch the truss rod/claw - don't know a thing about maintenance stuff like that. I figured just remove the strings, throw new ones one, lock 'em and tune 'em. Apparently something's not right. Guitar plays like a dream - I miss it already.
 
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Well I finally got it to stay in tune - but the bridge is still being pulled forward a bit - not great deal but enough so it's not level and that the action is higher than I like.

Thanks again for the responses.
 

TNT

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I've ALWAYS changed strings one at a time, both on stop tails, Floyds and floaters!! And, never is there a problem - never!!

By doing it this way, the guitar (doesn't sense) the change. When you take all the strings off at once (without compensating for this with the truss rod and springs), it jacks up the neck, truss rod, trem springs, fretwboard, etc. . .

There is NO reason at all to remove all the strings at once, and it can only lead to unnecessary delays and more work!!!
 

Dizzy

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I've ALWAYS changed strings one at a time, both on stop tails, Floyds and floaters!! And, never is there a problem - never!!

By doing it this way, the guitar (doesn't sense) the change. When you take all the strings off at once (without compensating for this with the truss rod and springs), it jacks up the neck, truss rod, trem springs, fretwboard, etc. . .

There is NO reason at all to remove all the strings at once, and it can only lead to unnecessary delays and more work!!!

+1000
 

MikeVt

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I've ALWAYS changed strings one at a time, both on stop tails, Floyds and floaters!! And, never is there a problem - never!!

By doing it this way, the guitar (doesn't sense) the change. When you take all the strings off at once (without compensating for this with the truss rod and springs), it jacks up the neck, truss rod, trem springs, fretwboard, etc. . .

There is NO reason at all to remove all the strings at once, and it can only lead to unnecessary delays and more work!!!

TNT, I do it very occasionally when I want to give the neck a good cleaning and conditioning. So although close, it's not really 'never' for me...

Mike
 

Spudmurphy

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Your trem claw needs adjusting.

If you have put heavier gauge strings on, ther the bridge will pull up "higher" - so either put another spring on or screw in the trem claw - be careful - don't want the screwdriver slipping!!
 

Norrin Radd

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Bah - I always take all the strings off of all my guitars before restringing - I like to keep my necks very clean. I've never had the bridge not returning to where it was issue except when changing gauges. That bit about one at a time and the guitar sensing the tension change and that throwing everything out of whack - just old wives tales.

HOWEVER, to make string changes on trem guitars go smoothly I always block the trem so it can't go towards the body. This helps a lot.

You also might want to try giving those new strings a really really good stretching. Even though they are now tuned to pitch, they might still have a bit of extra tension that can be relieved by vigorous stretching. That's been my experience, anyways.
 

kneeoh

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Just so no one gets all bent out of shape, this disclaimer: This is the recommended method described by Ernie Ball and in no way, shape, or form is intended to refute the methods of others....

From the EB FAQ

Q: How should I change the strings on my guitar?

A: The best way to restring your guitar is one at a time to keep tension on the neck. It is not recommended to take all of the strings off at once. If you need to remove them for cleaning or to do some repair work, you will probably need to readjust the neck and re-intonate the guitar.

FOR SCHALLER LOCKING TUNERS:

After removing the old string, loosen the thumbwheel screw in the back of the tuner of the string you are going to change. After inserting the string into the back of the tremolo plate in back and over the saddle (it is not necessary to remove the trem plate), run the string all the way up to the correct tuner. Re-tighten the thumbwheel screw until the string does not move out of the hole in the tuner (do not over-tighten) With a good pair of wire cutters, cut the excess string. Tune the string to pitch.

FOR FLOYD ROSE BRIDGES:

When replacing a string on a guitar with a Floyd Rose bridge, it is very important that the bridge should sit parallel to the body so as not to damage the finish. It is recommended to change strings one or two at a time; certainly leave at least one of the strings tuned to pitch while changing the rest, and place a soft towel or cloth under the back of the bridge to protect the finish.

Care must be taker not to over-tighten the saddle clamps. Push new strings through the saddle first with the ball end toward the nut so that you may fish the ball end under the string retainer to avoid damaging the finish. Strings should come off of the retainer toward the nut to assure that the string is touching the entire surface of the nut in order to keep the string from changing pitch when installing the nut clamp. You are now ready to tighten the strings at each end.
 

TNT

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Yeah Mike & Dizzy,

I figured you guys probably did it the same way I do. Most of what I do now is because I "learned the hard way"!!!! I'm sure you guys have a few scars too!!

Ouchhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!:)
 

puppyonacid

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I've ALWAYS changed strings one at a time, both on stop tails, Floyds and floaters!! And, never is there a problem - never!!

By doing it this way, the guitar (doesn't sense) the change. When you take all the strings off at once (without compensating for this with the truss rod and springs), it jacks up the neck, truss rod, trem springs, fretwboard, etc. . .

There is NO reason at all to remove all the strings at once, and it can only lead to unnecessary delays and more work!!!

Sure, that's the best way around it but.........jonguitarz himself (where is he nowadays?) has stated that as long as you don't keep the strings off the guitar for too long then taking them all off at once would be ok. Block the trem though!

I changed my strings last night and I always take the set off completely so I can clean the fretboard easier. I blocked the trem first. I had my JP6 at work with me tonight teaching, and I'll have it at rehearsals tomorrow. It's totally 100% fine. I took all the strings off, cleaned it, put another set on. No problems what so ever.
 

RocketRalf

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Another tip, always detune the string down to no tension before cutting it or loosening the locking tuner.

I don't see anything wrong with taking all the strings off on a hardtail. But just in case you might want to do it 3 at a time, it makes it easier to clean, one half of the neck at a time, than string by string.
 

Sigmunds Couch

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A straight edge an a quick tweek of the trem claw screws does a JP good. Any change of tension, whether string gauge change or tuning change, will send a floating trem into fits. Every guitar that I own with a floating trem has the trem cover plate for just such an occasion.
 

Slingy

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I have a question about the Luke trem. This is my first trem guitar. How many springs are you guys using or recommend using for mainly rhythm work and does your bridges sit flush on the body? Mine is slightly off the body. I don't need to ever pull up on the bar at this point and will only use it for vibrato and small dips.

The reason I ask is that the feel is much different then my hardtail guitars and I want to pick between the area of the first and middle pick up with my hand resting very close to the bridge.
 

Tim O'Sullivan

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I always used to do a string at a time, though since I have been using Wonder Wipes I have been taking all the strings off to clean the fingerboard. I know I have hardtails on my guitars, but I have never had any problems with necks going out of wack.
 
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Thanks again for the responses - very helpful. I ended up taking the guitar in for a set up - they noticed a slight bow in the neck. So a slight tweak here and there and we're good to go. Played last night - felt even better than when I got it a month ago. Since I'm such a noob with the maintenance thing, think I'll stick to the one at a time method.

Rock on.
 

Multiversal

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As far as I know, when you take all of the strings off for string changes it doesn't cause any drastic or noticeable change because the tension isn't lost for a long enough period of time.

I do one string at a time, only because it's easier.. but for those deep cleaning days all of 'em come off.
 
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