Question changing strings from 10's to 9's on JP6

[Firewalker]

Good day everyone,

In about a month I'll be getting my new JP6 pearl redburst!!

I'll be possibly changing the string gauge from the listed 10 gauge down to 9's.


I've read that changing to a lower gauge string can cause buzzing at the nut. Any truth to this with the JP series and the compensated nut?


Also is there any advice on changing from a 10 gauge down to a 9 gauge?


PS. A big thanks to AJ for his answering of all my questions prior to and after my order was placed

 

[ozzyrules]

Should be no problem. I go back and forth on my MM90 Ass all the time. It's a hard tail & I don't have to adjust the truss rod or anything.

 

[PeteDuBaldo]

I use the JP as my main axe and usually play it with 10s but regularly set them up in various gauges for different projects and/or customers (I just went to 11 on my new axe - insert spinal tap comment here).

Switching from 10s to 9s you will need to

• adjust the tension on the spring claw - loosen the screws to balance the floating bridge while tuning/retuning all the strings to pitch.
• check intonation - I check the pitch of the open string and 17th fret. Some people use the open, 12th harmonic, 12th fret method
• check the neck for proper relief. Adjust truss rod to obtain approximately 1 business card thickness at the 7th fret while gently fretting the 2nd and 12th frets on low E. A little bit goes a long way with this truss rod.

 

[Firewalker]

Thanks for the info Pete.

Just curious though, do I need to worry about backbow on the neck since the string gauge is being changed from 10's to 9's due to the increased tension on the truss rod from having 10's on there previously?

I use the JP as my main axe and usually play it with 10s but regularly set them up in various gauges for different projects and/or customers (I just went to 11 on my new axe - insert spinal tap comment here).

Switching from 10s to 9s you will need to
[*]adjust the tension on the spring claw - loosen the screws to balance the floating bridge while tuning/retuning all the strings to pitch.
[*]check intonation - I check the pitch of the open string and 17th fret. Some people use the open, 12th harmonic, 12th fret method
[*]check the neck for proper relief. Adjust truss rod to obtain approximately 1 business card thickness at the 7th fret while gently fretting the 2nd and 12th frets on low E. A little bit goes a long way with this truss rod.

 

[PeteDuBaldo]

Yes, the backbow is the truss rod adjustment I mention in the last step

Strange, the list command was missing. Fixed original post...

 

[Firewalker]

I think what I meant was since the truss rod is already set for 10's wouldn't it go into backbow before you got to the last step of adjusting the truss rod?

Yes, the backbow is the truss rod adjustment I mention in the last step

Strange, the list command was missing. Fixed original post...

 

[DaPatrooch]

Pretty much all you'll have to do is loosen the spring claw, which can be a bit tedious since you'll have to retune every time you make an adjustment, but it's still relatively simple. When I switched to 9s on my JP shortly after I got it a few years ago, I didn't even have to adjust the truss rod or intonation. It's still a good idea to make sure they're right because they might change in your case, but any change will be minimal.

 

[luv]

I think what I meant was since the truss rod is already set for 10's wouldn't it go into backbow before you got to the last step of adjusting the truss rod?

because it might go into slight backbow (or just too flat..if there is such a thing), like you mentioned, that is why you'd need to check the relief and possibly adjust the truss rod. truss adjustments on ebmm's are super easy, thanks to a great design.

 

[PeteDuBaldo]

I think what I meant was since the truss rod is already set for 10's wouldn't it go into backbow before you got to the last step of adjusting the truss rod?

It may change slightly but it certainly won't be an extreme shift.