Off Topic Done with George L's... recommend me some decent patch cables!

[spkirby]

George L's are nice, small, flexible patch cables...they are essentially perfect in theory but in reality are a nightmare for drop outs, hums, shorts etc! I've had enough!

It's time to reinvest in some professionally soldered patch cables.... so can you guys recommend some patch cables that have:

1. Small/Flush right angled jacks - I have a very busy pedalboard with very little spare space
2. Flexible cabling for all the twists and turns
3. Aren't tone suckers
4. Are soldered?

 

[Jimmyb]

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Pull your finger out!!!

 

[beej]

I'm not a fan of George Ls, but I am a fan of the Bill Lawrence cable (George L's are a take on Bill's stuff, but not as reliable, or as transparent sounding imo). I've use the Bill L stuff for ever and honestly, I've never had a single cable issue on a board or instrument cable.

That said ... soldered cables are inherently more reliable when done right. I've used Neutrick jacks (they're not small but they do have right angled jacks) and either Mogami cable or the Bill L stuff but soldered the ends.

The "which cable should I use" thing brings out a lot of opinions. Some guys like low capacitance cable, some don't (or have buffers and it doesn't much matter). Personally I do.

 

[Jimmyb]

This guy...

Has some really great feedback from the bass playing fraternity over in the yookay. If you have a word with him regarding sizing etc, he should be able to advise you.

The ones I've posted were Switchcraft, with Van Damme btw, whch you can get for pretty good money from CPC.

 

[Smellybum]

Ernie Ball makes cables! - Great ones ! - Fanboi smelly out!

 

[Jimmyb]

Ernie Ball makes cables! - Great ones ! - Fanboi smelly out!

Do they do pedalboard patch cables?

The male to male jumpers are useful though.

 

[Trem]

Have you looked at the set of 6 GLS patch cables on Amazon? Seems decent to me. I have been using a George 'L instrument cable without issues, but never jumped on the patch cables due to reviews like yours. I sold my Spectraflex cables after buying George 'L's instrument cable.

 

[tommyindelaware]

i really like the dimarzio stuff. ebmm isn't currently in the cable business.
Instrument | DiMarzio

 

[colinboy]

Hi Steve how are ya keeping mate?hope lifes treating you well.

I use all planet waves cables are there make great patch cables too.Check em out!

 

[Astrofreq]

I had George Ls for about 2 years and eventually sold all of them. Too many times one would stop working. Not worth the money at all.

 

[peterd79]

i really like Lava Cables... i have them on my board and have yet to have them go out on me... just brilliant.

another route to go is with Pro Cables and Sound they do really nice work as well... i have my cable from my guitar to board and board to amp pro cables and sound (hand made in the US of A) and they are the best cables i've used - better than my magomi gold id been using for years

 

[Colin]

I use George L cables and solder Ernie Ball plugs on them. Great combo and very easy to do. maybe try that on one lead first before you spend anymore money?

 

[dibart77]

I agree with Jimmy B. Best to make your own.

You want to use Switchcraft connectors as they are bulletproof (no offense to Ernie Ball connectors -- I've never used them so I can't vouch for 'em -- Switchcraft is what I use).

- 226 mono right-angle connectors
- 236 stereo right-angle connectors
- 280 mono straight connectors
- 297 stereo straight connectors

You can also get the Switchcraft connectors at Markertek.

Then you want Heat Shrink Tubing. After you solder your cables to your connectors, you melt the heat shrink tubing over the joint and it helps to strengthen it. I get my heat shrink at Parts Express. You can maybe use a hair dryer to melt the heat shrink, but I use this Heat Gun.

I get my solder at Radio Shack. You want Rosin Core Solder. You might also want to pick up some Desoldering Braid -- if you ever need to undo a connector it sucks up the solder and is a big help.

As far as cable, it's up to personal preference. I don't actually have a pedalboard (I use a TC Electronic G-System) but there's a sh!tload of patch cables in the back of my rack and they are all Belden 1266A shielded cable that I bought at Markertek. NOTE: Belden 1266A is NOT "guitar cable" like the one you use from your guitar to your amp/pedalboard. It is way thinner. Regular guitar cable has a bunch of extra padding/etc to give it substance, and so when your singer walks on it it won't get ruined. But it has WORSE shielding/noise rejection than Belden 1266A. So... as long as you're not one of these guys with your pedals all strewn about on the floor where they're going to get stepped on (by drunk singers) or kicked or mauled, but instead neatly velcro'd down in your pedalboard, then 1266A is probably a good bet. That's my 2 cents...

To assemble, strip an inch off the cable's outer jacket. Peel back the braided shield and twist that into something solderable. Then strip about 1/2" off each of the two red+black conductors (yes, two conductors -- I know "guitar cable only has one conductor plus the shield" -- hold your horses and I shall explain).

Next, unscrew the barrel off the Switchcraft connector. Slide the barrel onto your cable, and slide the clear plastic insulator onto your cable, and then slide a 2" piece of heat shrink tubing onto the cable. Slide all that sh!t up the cable so it's not in your way. Sometimes I use a piece of masking tape to make that crap all stay where you want it while you solder...

Twist the conductors from the red and black cables together (ahhh... making sense now!) and bend them 90 degrees to get them out of the way. Now solder the braided shield onto the (long) sleeve/ground prong on the connector. Then use your needlenose pliers to bend the little prongs to clamp that down.

Next, solder the twisted red and black conductors to the tip lug on the connector. What we have done here accomplishes a couple of things: (A) These two conductors are twisted together inside the cable. This helps eliminate EMI interference, etc. (B) If one conductor ever fails, you have a backup conductor!

Now... Slide the heat shrink tubing over the ground lug prongs and as far up as you can. Then hit it with the heat gun. 3 seconds is all it takes. Don't BURN the heat shrink, just shrink it! Even if you don't buy the heat shrink gun, use a hair dryer; do NOT use a lighter or match, cause it don't work!

Finally, slide the clear switchcraft insulator thingy over everything, and then screw down the barrel. And you are done!

If you want to be extra sure, you could slide a few more heat shrinks over the cable where it comes out the back of the Switchcraft connector to give yourself some extra strain relief. If you do that, you'll want to buy a few sizes of heat shrink (progressively bigger). I don't bother with the extra strain relief because they're inside my rack and never get messed with.

Knock wood, I have NEVER EVER had a short or cable problem. HAVING SAID THAT: I always bring my soldering iron, solder, and desoldering braid to the gig in my tool bag. Also good to bring a couple extra connectors for the hell of it. The most important thing any performing musician should be is prepared for the inevitable...

Here's some photos of the completed cable (this one is red Belden but they make all different colors):

While I'm at it, here's a picture of the back of my rack. The cables are intentionally not all bundled up and tied down -- when a piece of gear takes a sh!t, I want to be able to pull it out of the rack fast and easy! Check it out:

Hope that helps! And if you disagree with me, please don't flame!!! This approach has worked like a CHARM for me (knock wood). Just tryin-a-help! Enjoy!

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[Smellybum]

Do they do pedalboard patch cables?

The male to male jumpers are useful though.

This is where you youngsters lose me - pedalboard patch cable -? e.g. the small wire between 2 pedals?

 

[Jimmyb]

Yeah, that's the one. Where were they? Couldn't find them on Megatron, or was it Shopatron?

 

[Tim O'Sullivan]

I could not agree more on George L's. I found them to last about 5 minutes before crapping out!

When I lived in the UK, I used Award-Session cables. They are excellent value for money and will make anything you want.

When I moved to the US, I started using Planet Waves cables, the ones that you make up yourself. Even though they are not soldered, they seem pretty solid so far! I have wired my pedal board with them and they sound great. I believe Satch even uses them!

 

[matty76]

I'll be the first to vouch for George L's, 11 pedals on a furman board, never had a problem with them in nearly 5 years with this setup, sound great and easy to use/customize...knock on wood...

 

[Norrin Radd]

When I moved to the US, I started using Planet Waves cables, the ones that you make up yourself. Even though they are not soldered, they seem pretty solid so far! I have wired my pedal board with them and they sound great.

I have to concur with Tim. I've been using the Planet Waves "Cable Station" kits for almost a decade now. Very easy to use. No soldering. Cut to length and screw on the ends. I've also remade my pedalboards over and over and over and have reused cables and connectors several time. I've never - repeat: never! - had one crap out on me. Ever. And I am tough on my pedal board. And they DO sound very good. No tone suck at all.

There are many other much more expensive and more labor intensive options that I am sure work fantastically as well. But for the $$$ - I'll keep using the PW. I see no reason not to.

 

[Astrofreq]

Thanks for that! I'll check out the cable station next time I need some. Custom lengths sure are nice.

 

[LawDaddy]

This may sound strange, especially since I grew up in the High End audio industry, but I've had the fewest problems with the cheap molded patch cords with right angles on both ends that I bought a bag of at my local music store.