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Bryan

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So I got in a DTuna to put on my AX40.

But I'm having a problem and I have pics to illustrate.

I followed the directions. The fine tuning screw is set so it barely touches the screw. I clamped down and tuned to D.

d9958436.jpg


Now when I engage the DTuna instead of close to E I'm only tuned to Eb

e1051b9c.jpg


So I tighten and tighten the set screw and this is the closest I can get.

e2ce502d.jpg


Unfortunately by this point the DTuna is impossible to move and I'm not tuned to E!

So what gives? Why won't this work??
 

Mark-NL

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I have no knowledge of Axxi, Floyd Roses, D-tunas but, reading this I have to ask:
did you try the shorter D-tuna screw too? Read in another thread that that fixed some issues.
 

Bryan

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I tried both screws and got the same results. It'll do a half step perfectly but not a whole.

It really bugs me as every DTuna equipped guitar I've tried has worked flawlessly. But this is the second time I've tried to install one and I've had the same problem each time.

Oh well. I got it from Amazon and it's returnable so back it goes.

I think I'll find a store that sells them and get their person to install it.
 

nobozos

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I believe the problem is the bridge saddle. I'll try to explain. The bridge saddle is hinged. The front part is what gets screwed down to the bridge plate, and the back part travels up and down. When the back part of the saddle goes up(away from the bridge plate), it makes the note flat, when it goes down(toward the bridge plate), it makes the note sharp. You can adjust the fine tuner down to make the note sharp until you run out of thread on the fine tuner, or the bottom of the back part of the bridge saddle bottoms out against the bridge plate. This is what I think could be happening. When you push in the D-Tuna, you are pushing the back of the bridge saddle down toward the bridge plate, and I think the angle of the bottom of the back part of the saddle isn't as steep as others causing it to bottom out. That is the only explanation I can come up with.

When I get my Ax40 back, I'll compare the bridge saddles to those on my EVH, and let you know what I find.
 
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Bryan

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I would gladly appreciate your analysis. I really want this to work on my guitar and I honestly hope to get one working right on my AX40.
 

nobozos

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Might take a couple days for me to get my Ax40 back. What you can do is follow the procedure that you followed above, up until the point where you start adjusting the fine tuner on the D-Tuna. Once you get to that point, start paying attention to the bottom of the back portion of the bridge saddle. Monitor the gap between the bridge saddle and the bridge plate while your are adjusting the D-Tuna adjustment screw. Once the bottom of the bridge saddle makes contact with the bridge plate, you are done adjusting, whether the pitch is right or not, because you are out of travel. Unfortunately, if this is the case, you are S.O.L. for getting the bridge saddle to work. You could see if you could find a replacement bridge saddle that has more of an angle on the bottom edge that allows more travel.
 

TNT

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Bryan, I've had trouble at times installing DT's in several guitars, but ultimately every single guitar worked out fine. There can be many "small" issues with each different set up. You may want to wait before you return it.

I mean if you really stop and think about it, the DT can be WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYYY better than it is, however, that would require Floyd Rose to modify/redesign the low E portion of the trem - and, quite honestly, I think he would if it was his PT. EVH came out with it to work on a normal FR trem, so it's not exactly the "perfect" set up.

I think NOBO is on the right track with the remedy though.
 

nobozos

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One thing you might try is to put a bridge saddle shim under the low E string saddle. Should give you enough clearance to get you to where you need to be, without affecting the playability that much. That is, assuming the problem is the saddle as I described earlier. Or, you could buy a GOTOH bridge.
 

Bryan

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Youngsville, LA
nobozos said:
One thing you might try is to put a bridge saddle shim under the low E string saddle. Should give you enough clearance to get you to where you need to be, without affecting the playability that much. That is, assuming the problem is the saddle as I described earlier. Or, you could buy a GOTOH bridge.

I'm trying to avoid buying a new bridge. If I start putting that kind of money into the guitar I might as well put that money toward a Wolfgang or get a used Axis.
 

nobozos

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I'm trying to avoid buying a new bridge. If I start putting that kind of money into the guitar I might as well put that money toward a Wolfgang or get a used Axis.

Yeah, I hear ya. In all honesty, if what I described is actually the problem, I can tell you what I would do.

(Disclaimer) I am not advising you that this is what you should do. I am not advising you against taking your guitar to a qualified service center to see if you can get it to work. I am simply stating what I would do, based on my access to tools, and experience.

If I were in your situation, I would remove the bridge saddle, and grind the bottom back part of the bridge saddle down at enough of an angle to get the D-Tuna to work. I would just use an electric grinder (safety glasses and gloves) to remove just enough material to give you the clearance you need. Cheap, easy, simple.

WARNING: When undertaking a project like that, I am always prepared to replace the part I am attempting to modify.
 

Bryan

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Understood.

Any chance you have a pic of the modified saddle so I can see what I'm trying to accomplish?

And other than the DTuna, I'm do happy with the AX40 that I don't want to get anything else.

Ok maybe a pink tribute Axis, but that kind of money isn't showing up in my checking account anytime soon.
 

TNT

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The DT are a simple mechanism that can technically "be made" to work on the FR. A little of this and a little of that is usually required to get it working perfectly.
 
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