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neastguy

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Feb 15, 2005
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213
I got my silo and it came with 9's so I switched em out with 10's and of course i have fret buzz all over the place....I'm just wondering if their is a standard hei :eek: ght at the 12 fret EB recommends for their guitars...I raised the 6th string saddle one whole turn and it didnt seem to do much to help the buzzing, If i go much higher the guitar is going to be difficult to play with the height.....any ideas?
 

Raz

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Sep 3, 2004
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Ottawa, Ont.
neastguy said:
I got my silo and it came with 9's so I switched em out with 10's and of course i have fret buzz all over the place....I'm just wondering if their is a standard hei :eek: ght at the 12 fret EB recommends for their guitars...I raised the 6th string saddle one whole turn and it didnt seem to do much to help the buzzing, If i go much higher the guitar is going to be difficult to play with the height.....any ideas?
First thing set your action height to about 3/32 (just for starters). Then check your neck profile. Fret the first and last fret then check to see if there is a gap between the low E and the 12th fret. If the gap is very small, turn the wheel counter clockwise...however I find that large gaps also create undesirable buzzes (call me crazya)...so if there is a large gap, rotate the wheel clockwise. What I usually do is work with both the saddles and the truss rod to get the action just right and reduce buzzing. Work on your action of a period of days, allowing for the neck to stabalize. Naturally you will have some buzzing, if you want low action, but this buzzing is usually only audible when you are playing unplugged. Does you guitar have a trem? If it does, make sure the trem plate is level.
 

neastguy

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Feb 15, 2005
Messages
213
Raz said:
First thing set your action height to about 3/32 (just for starters). Then check your neck profile. Fret the first and last fret then check to see if there is a gap between the low E and the 12th fret. If the gap is very small, turn the wheel counter clockwise...however I find that large gaps also create undesirable buzzes (call me crazya)...so if there is a large gap, rotate the wheel clockwise. What I usually do is work with both the saddles and the truss rod to get the action just right and reduce buzzing. Work on your action of a period of days, allowing for the neck to stabalize. Naturally you will have some buzzing, if you want low action, but this buzzing is usually only audible when you are playing unplugged. Does you guitar have a trem? If it does, make sure the trem plate is level.

thanks, no trem....I'm getting the kind of buzz where its creating overtones via my amp...ugh....its making the note sound out of tune....I need to get a nice ruler i guess.. :eek:
 

tommyindelaware

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Dec 24, 2002
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wilmington , delaware
i spent years perfecting my fretworking skills.......fret leveling........dressing.....buffing........ect..in order to achieve micronicly low action..........only to find that when i achieved this SUPER low action .....i couldn't play as dynamically as i need to sometimes......
w/what i call stupid low action (no reflection on anyone but me)......my tone & sustain suffered .
i now use a medium low action....almost medium.......so if i feel like a power cord sometimes the geetar responds more dynamically.......or even blasting one note for a long screeming sustain ......

zat ever happen to anyone else ?????
 

jongitarz

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The guitars come from the factory with the strings set at 2/32 at the 12th fret from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string. That is pretty much industry standard and a really good starting point.

If you are getting a buzz in the lower end of the fret board,you need more relief. If the buzz happens in the upper part of the neck, make the fret board flatter(less relief) and raise the saddles until the buzz stops.
 

neastguy

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Feb 15, 2005
Messages
213
jongitarz said:
The guitars come from the factory with the strings set at 2/32 at the 12th fret from the top of the fret to the bottom of the string. That is pretty much industry standard and a really good starting point.

If you are getting a buzz in the lower end of the fret board,you need more relief. If the buzz happens in the upper part of the neck, make the fret board flatter(less relief) and raise the saddles until the buzz stops.

thanks, do silo's come w/ 10's on brand new or 9's..? I bought this used (w/9's)but it looks like it was born on april 05...my fear is i will have to raise the action too much and then I wont be happy.... :(

i have some buzzing on the 5th fret 8th fret 14 th fret -24 frets...lol...
 

Raz

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Joined
Sep 3, 2004
Messages
2,908
Location
Ottawa, Ont.
neastguy said:
thanks, do silo's come w/ 10's on brand new or 9's..? I bought this used (w/9's)but it looks like it was born on april 05...my fear is i will have to raise the action too much and then I wont be happy.... :(

i have some buzzing on the 5th fret 8th fret 14 th fret -24 frets...lol...

Q: Which strings do you use at the factory to string up your guitars?
A: The Ernie Ball strings we use on all of our guitars is as follows:

Silhouette & Silhouette Special: RPS-9 Super Slinkys (9-42) catalog #2239

Axis: Super Slinky (9-42) catalog #2223

Axis SuperSport with DiMarzio humbuckers: RPS-9 Super Slinkys (9-42) catalog #2239

Axis SuperSport with MM-90 pickups: RPS-10 Regular Slinky (10-46) catalog #2240

Steve Morse: 10-13-16(all RPS)-26-32-42, available in singles only

Albert Lee: 10-13-16(all RPS)-26-36-46 available in singles only

Luke: RPS-9 Super Slinkys (9-42) catalog #2239

John Petrucci: RPS-10 Regular Slinkys (10-46) catalog #2240

Benji Madden: 12-16-24w-32-42-52

SUB-1 guitar: RPS-9 catalog #2239

I used 10's on my Silos
 
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