Help! Ebony fret board seems to drag and scrape on blues bends

[rinsect2000]

I recently received my JP6 BFR Koa with ebony fret board. In the past I have playing a Fender Stratocaster with a solid maple neck. The JP6 ebony seems to "drag" more and even the drag is picked up by the amp - not cool - not smooth. I am sure that it's my problem. I just need to sort it out. Any advise would be welcome.

Tonight I did use the included "free" fret board cleaner. It seemed to reduce the friction a bit. Later I thought it might be my fingering. The JP6 has a MUCH softer touch to it. Could it be that I am putting to much pressure on the string?

Trying to get better.

Steve

 

[metalmarty]

Having played ebony fretboards all my life I understand the description. And you already gave the answer: too much pressure. The string shouldn't touch wood, the fret is enough

 

[walleye]

i confused by what you mean when you say it drags
is it the sound of your finger dragging along the wood?

 

[fbecir]

Too much pressure ... you are too strong
Perhaps, you should use a heavier string gauge (if you are using 9-42, perhaps try some 10-46).
I have also this problem. I have quite a lot of strength in my fingers (moutain climbing during so many years ...). Here is a pic of the fretboard of my #1 :

I use 10-46, but I believe I should try some 11-52.

 

[Heeboja]

You need to learn to play lighter. The strat should have smaller frets than the JP so you don't need as much pressure. Higher gauge strings should help too.

 

[Colin]

wow! impressive

 

[Mephistofes]

I kind of have (had) a similar problem with the JPX's ebony fretboard. The lower E, A and D strings felt a bit more sticky and harder to slide on. I don't really have that sweaty hands, so maybe I should try using a fretboard cleaner as well, but for now it helps enough to clean the strings (one at a time from the top side and underside) after playing with a cotton patch. I was about to change new strings because of that, but now it feels pretty good after cleaning the strings every time I play. This probably isn't your issue, but oh well...

 

[rinsect2000]

Thanks MetalMarty! Well - if I use less pressure then I can use the lighter touch to improve the fluidity of my playing - less pressure should help improve tone and maybe speed. So the tone of a fret board is derived through the fret? Never thought of it that way. Thank you for your input.

Steve

 

[rinsect2000]

fbecir. Thanks for the amazing photo of fret / fret board wear! I had been using 10-13-17-30-42-52, EB "Slinky Top Heavy Bottom." Also, the action on the Stratocaster is noticeably higher. I am going to try to improve my touch on the fret board to not be so strong. Be safe climbing.

Steve

 

[rinsect2000]

Heeboja, I am glad to read that the issue is just my playing - always looking for ways to improve. Your response is appreciated!

Steve

 

[Slav123]

My buddy from Scotland has always told me to contact the great guys and gal at EBMM CS. They should be able to help you out. Good luck friend!

 

[fbecir]

fbecir. Thanks for the amazing photo of fret / fret board wear! I had been using 10-13-17-30-42-52, EB "Slinky Top Heavy Bottom." Also, the action on the Stratocaster is noticeably higher. I am going to try to improve my touch on the fret board to not be so strong. Be safe climbing.

Steve

Hello Steve

The action on my Morse is not very low. I am an "old-fashioned" player thus I cannot play with a low action. I need to feel the strings ! I learned with a cheap acoustic and I play also classical guitar, thus I am used to have some space between the neck and the strings.
The 10-52 strings are interesting and already quite heavy (I suspect that you have also strong hands). The bottom is heavier than the top. I suspect that the problem you encounter is just with the G - B - E strings. Perhaps, you should try 11 - 52.

For mountain climbing, I had to stop. I was damaging my hands too much so it was not compatible with guitar playing. Hard choice between two passions .

 

[the24thfret]

I have two ebony board JPs. You'll get used to the board and it will "break in" a bit. I use fingerease a bit which lubricates too.

There is a difference between ebony and rosewood or maple boards but, again, you'll get used to it.

I love ebony boards now.

 

[Hendog]

I know you dont want to hear this, but the JP (my favorite guitar of all time) is not the right guitar for blues. During complex bends (expecially multiple note bends) the floating trem detunes. The pickups are too high output. The wood choices are not ideal. Ect.

A hardtail Silo with a maple board is a much better choice.

 

[mojomkr]

I know you dont want to hear this, but the JP (my favorite guitar of all time) is not the right guitar for blues. During complex bends (expecially multiple note bends) the floating trem detunes. The pickups are too high output. The wood choices are not ideal. Ect.

Oh wow ! I disagree, I think the reason MM went back to the 10-52 was

to remedy that problem of detuning...I could be wrong. I'm always checking

on my tuning w/ a TU-3 in the chain, Especially with my New JP and after

serious bending and up and down on the Trem. It has been right on. As far

as the Pickups being too high output, That's what the Volume and tone knobs

are for. Blues playing is mostly in the fingers coaxing the notes. The JP w/

Piezo and a good Acoustic Amp and in stereo is Blues Heaven. Thats one of

reasons I wanted the JP. It goes from Metal, Rock, Country and Blues playing

with a tweak of your tone knobs and playing style. I love this Guitar so much,

I want another one as a backup.....

 

[Mephistofes]

I know you dont want to hear this, but the JP (my favorite guitar of all time) is not the right guitar for blues. During complex bends (expecially multiple note bends) the floating trem detunes. The pickups are too high output. The wood choices are not ideal. Ect.

A hardtail Silo with a maple board is a much better choice.

If the JP feels comfortable to his hands and sounds great, why would he choose another guitar? It's a very personal choice. The JP has lots of tone variety. IMO JP suits many styles, probably more than you need. It has a very nice round tone to it and if he likes it, then why not? You don't always have to go with the flow.

 

[Dante]

The wood choices are not ideal.

lol, what?

it's made of mahogany and ebony, how can that be less than ideal?

and TONS of players use trems (even tho i hate them myself).

if anything, maybe he could go with lower output pups if the stock ones are too metal for his taste, but therebeyond, he was simply stating his fingers stick to the ebony board (which would happen to a maple board anyway) and i agree he might be using a little too much pressure.

 

[five7]

I know you dont want to hear this, but the JP (my favorite guitar of all time) is not the right guitar for blues. During complex bends (expecially multiple note bends) the floating trem detunes. The pickups are too high output. The wood choices are not ideal. Ect.

A hardtail Silo with a maple board is a much better choice.

If there are only 3 springs in the back, put a couple more in and no more going out of tune on bends.

 

[Slav123]

Wrong

I know you dont want to hear this, but the JP (my favorite guitar of all time) is not the right guitar for blues. During complex bends (expecially multiple note bends) the floating trem detunes. The pickups are too high output. The wood choices are not ideal. Ect.

A hardtail Silo with a maple board is a much better choice.

It's not the guitar, it's the player...
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UhvgNLeXFxA&feature=related]YouTube - Improvisation - George Greaves[/ame]
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKPOll5YsPw]YouTube - blues competition- Sloth[/ame]

 

[walleye]

in my opinion blues is 0% instrument/tone
100% note choice and technique

so a JP is fine for blues.. any guitar is fine for blues