- Thread starter françois
- Start date
No rules. We have basic guidelines we use when setting up an instrument, but it is best to adjust to your particular playing style.
Here is some basic info:
http://www.ernieball.com/faq_mmbass.php
Thanks,
Greg
Here is some basic info:
http://www.ernieball.com/faq_mmbass.php
Thanks,
Greg
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Rod Trussbroken
Moderator
To put you in the ballpark, this is the way I proceed (others may take a different approach...there is no right way);
Seated with bass on lap to take gravity out of the equation.
Truss Rod/ Neck Adjustment. To check relief, use a finger of the left hand and depress the 1st fret of E string. At same time, using thumb of right hand, depress same string at the 12th fret with middle finger pointing towards the first fret. With middle finger, check distance from bottom of string to top of fret at around 5th or 6th fret (or where the string has the greatest duistance from the fret). Aim for a gap of approx thickness of a playing card...about .003 or .004" Some prefer more relief...up to .015" relief. The relief I use allows for low action playing. (Note. Some necks may not adjust that low. Also, check manual on how to make truss adjustments....direction to turn truss nut etc. If in doubt, take to a luthier).
Strings. On all strings at 17th fret, use a steel rule to measure the distance from bottom of string to top of frets. Aim for 3/32" (more or less, consistent with no fret rattle). Some prefer strings not to be all equal distance from the frets. In such a case and for comfortable playing, make sure that the height of all strings reflect the radius of the neck. Set the height of the G string to where you want it and work back to the E string. The G might be lower but if you follow the radius of the neck, the E string is going to be higher.
(If the height of the strings are set equal distance from the frets then they automatically reflect the neck readius).
Pickup. Depress E string at last fret. Aim for a distance of 4/32" between bottom of string and top of pickup magnet for that string. Do the same with the G string. This time aim for 3/32". Each side may need finer adjustment for even string volume.
Cheers.
Seated with bass on lap to take gravity out of the equation.
Truss Rod/ Neck Adjustment. To check relief, use a finger of the left hand and depress the 1st fret of E string. At same time, using thumb of right hand, depress same string at the 12th fret with middle finger pointing towards the first fret. With middle finger, check distance from bottom of string to top of fret at around 5th or 6th fret (or where the string has the greatest duistance from the fret). Aim for a gap of approx thickness of a playing card...about .003 or .004" Some prefer more relief...up to .015" relief. The relief I use allows for low action playing. (Note. Some necks may not adjust that low. Also, check manual on how to make truss adjustments....direction to turn truss nut etc. If in doubt, take to a luthier).
Strings. On all strings at 17th fret, use a steel rule to measure the distance from bottom of string to top of frets. Aim for 3/32" (more or less, consistent with no fret rattle). Some prefer strings not to be all equal distance from the frets. In such a case and for comfortable playing, make sure that the height of all strings reflect the radius of the neck. Set the height of the G string to where you want it and work back to the E string. The G might be lower but if you follow the radius of the neck, the E string is going to be higher.
(If the height of the strings are set equal distance from the frets then they automatically reflect the neck readius).
Pickup. Depress E string at last fret. Aim for a distance of 4/32" between bottom of string and top of pickup magnet for that string. Do the same with the G string. This time aim for 3/32". Each side may need finer adjustment for even string volume.
Cheers.
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