This isn't really an Ernie ball question, but a generic question. I have two of the same guitar and on one the strings feel stiff. They both have tremolos that rest on the body and move one direction. They both have two springs in the cavity that are screwed into the factory drilled distance and stop. The action(bridge) on one is a fraction lower... The necks are almost straight with a hair off. Any clue to why the strings feel stiff on the one??? Anything I need to check or is it just a stiff neck? Thanks for the help!!!
- Thread starter jvh
- Start date
roburado
Well-known member
Different string gauges?
Roubster
Well-known member
If you lower the saddle a bit it should loosen the tension a little I would say. But again every guitar feels slightly different. There was a difference in the tension of the vintage terms on my previous silhouette special And 20th silhouette for whatever reason.
two strings clamped down all the way doesn't seem right. I'd put in three. if you have the bridge flat try bending at the 12th fret. when you get to 1 1/2 or 2 step bend the bridge should start to lift. If not I think your bridge is clamped down to hard. this can have an effect on the stiffness.
DrKev
Moderator
Are they the same brand of strings? Each brand has it's own 'recipe' for the wound strings and that alters the tension and makes the entire set feel different, even if the nominal gauges written on the pack are the same from brand to brand. It's a very noticeable difference.
Do the bridges move when you bend strings at all? If yes, try tightening the trem claw screws until the bridge just barely moves for a 1 step bend on the high E-string. That way you know they are springs are acting identically. Springs are a not always the exact same strength so setting the distance does not guarantee the same 'action' or feel.
Assuming the necks are absolutely identical (i.e. fingerboard radius and fret size), strings are absolutely identical and the trems are set as accurately as we can reasonably manage, small changes in action could account for the difference you feel. That means not only at the saddles but at the nut too. Try measuring the string height at three points along the neck and look for differences. FWIW, small differences in neck relief won't change things much, IMO.
Do the bridges move when you bend strings at all? If yes, try tightening the trem claw screws until the bridge just barely moves for a 1 step bend on the high E-string. That way you know they are springs are acting identically. Springs are a not always the exact same strength so setting the distance does not guarantee the same 'action' or feel.
Assuming the necks are absolutely identical (i.e. fingerboard radius and fret size), strings are absolutely identical and the trems are set as accurately as we can reasonably manage, small changes in action could account for the difference you feel. That means not only at the saddles but at the nut too. Try measuring the string height at three points along the neck and look for differences. FWIW, small differences in neck relief won't change things much, IMO.
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Appreciate all the super fast responses!!! The action on the stiff one does exhibit a slight buzz depending on how hard the string is hit so the action is pretty low already. I could go a tad down. I thought maybe the truss rod was the culprite but sounds like not. The guitar I'm having a problem with has super slinkys 9s. I read somewhere that the claw is best at the full factory drilled area which is short of flush to cavity by 1/2". Supposedly springs have less tension when fully extended and have greater tension when the claws are closer to the bridge(screws backed out of holes). I dunno!!! Arggg!
DrKev
Moderator
No, springs have MORE tension when stretched, i.e. claw further away from the bridge.
With bridge non-floating (i.e. resting on the top, as yours does) "best" position for the claw, IMO, is just far enough back that the bridge does not move when you bend a string. If you put too much tension on the trem springs, by screwing the claw further back, it'll be harder to depress the whammy bar, make it more likely that bar will eventually break, and you may damage the finish under the bridge.
Do you have super slinky 9s on BOTH guitars? If not, that's probably the difference right away. Different brands might NOT have the same tension (even if the gauge is the same).
With bridge non-floating (i.e. resting on the top, as yours does) "best" position for the claw, IMO, is just far enough back that the bridge does not move when you bend a string. If you put too much tension on the trem springs, by screwing the claw further back, it'll be harder to depress the whammy bar, make it more likely that bar will eventually break, and you may damage the finish under the bridge.
Do you have super slinky 9s on BOTH guitars? If not, that's probably the difference right away. Different brands might NOT have the same tension (even if the gauge is the same).
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DrKev
Moderator
Sounds like a plan! And if Murphy's law is anything to go by, they might still feel different. Just in case, I'll get the next question in early...
...are the two guitars the same colour?
Let us know how you get on!
...are the two guitars the same colour?
Let us know how you get on!
Nah ones amber and the other is sunburst. Well I adjusted the truss rod one more bump and I think it feels pretty good now. I don't think I'm going to mess with the claw or action. Since it's a nonfloat the claw prolly wouldn't do much and the actions pretty low(if struck hard buzzes) I guess the neck had too much bow. Still think my new ebmm reflex plays better than this guitar, but like this one cause of the carved top.
