Harware info?

[TGL]

I have done most of my own repairs over the years during the time I have played bass.......

I have a pretty good idea what the two studs are on the bridge plate on EBMM basses- but before I go hacking around on them with an allen wrench---can someone fill me in on them?

How long do batteries last? Average? At a gig should I unplug the jack cord as to save the batts during breaks?

Are there mini pots on the circuit board for tweeking the eq pots?

Best place to get parts? Dealer or straight from EB?

I really like the EB basses and plan on keeping my new ones around for a long time so if there are any books or repair stuff on them can anyone recommend anything?


I'm planning on treating my new used Rays' neck with the Birchwood Casey oil and wax--any special tips ?

Okay I hope that's not to many info requests.

06 Sterling HS
06 Sting Ray HH
probubly more to come.............................

 

[Smallmouth_Bass]

At a gig should I unplug the jack cord as to save the batts during breaks?

Yes.

 

[guenter]

How long do batteries last? Average? At a gig should I unplug the jack cord as to save the batts during breaks?

In order to answer this question we only need to know how long a batterie will last when it's put into an idle (unplayed) bass with just a cable plugged in. Then it's up to you to decide if it's worth the effort to unplug the cord during a break.

(We could also measure the power consumption (measure idle current and multiply by battery voltage; the result is the electric power which is required to drive the preamp (mW)). A battery has a defined energy (mWh). If you divide the energy through the power you know how many hours (h) the battery can drive the preamp). Sorry for boring you )


I will try to measure this at the weekend and provide some numbers.

 

[oli@bass]

I have a pretty good idea what the two studs are on the bridge plate on EBMM basses- but before I go hacking around on them with an allen wrench---can someone fill me in on them?

On the pre-EB StingRays (and on the 2001 NAMM model and the 2010 Classic series), those are the only two screws to hold the bridge plate on the body. There no need for more because the strings run through the body. Also these are very nice made with counterparts in the body.
Aside from that, they keep the saddles from moving around. Very nice, durable and effective design.

On all other MM bridges where the strings run through the bridge, there are additional three screws to avoid the strings pulling the bridge up (or so).

Remove all strings and then remove all the bridge screws to check out how it is assembled.

Are there mini pots on the circuit board for tweeking the eq pots?

No idea. But that would be cool.

Best place to get parts? Dealer or straight from EB?

I really like the EB basses and plan on keeping my new ones around for a long time so if there are any books or repair stuff on them can anyone recommend anything?

Straight from EB. And it is best to bring your EB to your EB dealer or directly to EB. Call customer services first.

I'm planning on treating my new used Rays' neck with the Birchwood Casey oil and wax--any special tips ?

I did it exactly as described here with wonderful result:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24yWr2LRmJY]YouTube - ‪Caring for your Music Man neck & Fretboard‬‎[/ame]

 

[cellkirk74]

There was a thread about the oil & wax -treatment swome time ago:
http://www.ernieball.com/forums/music-man-basses/40959-ahh-oiled-my-neck-today-gun-stock-oil.html

I believe you do not have to adjust anything with the two big bolts. They are just for a tighter fit of the bridge.

 

[jlepre]

You need to add a "D"

 

[TGL]

Maint. Dept.

I noticed in the video that there was no mention of applying the gun stock oil. Only the wax after sanding---this is totally okay with me but I was wondering what my friend was telling me when referring to the oil. He's out of town so I can't ask him. I will follow the video.


guenter--you are my kind of researcher! I'm interested in knowing about the consumption of power of the active system in the bass for sure. Meanwhile I 'll be unplugging my bass during breaks. I have a wireless also, so I change batts every gig no matter what (when I use it). Batteries are expensive these days so I'm concerned about them. I'm spending cash like a wildman on them.


The studs--(like me) they only serve one purpose. I was thinking that maybe there was some kind of brass sounding block in the body (possible) that they tightened in to. I had an SG-2000 (yamaha electric) that had something like that .

Trim pots--are what we call the circuit board pots where I worked. I have seen those before on active guitar circuit boards. I forget which bass I had that had that.

 

[mynan]

I noticed in the video that there was no mention of applying the gun stock oil. Only the wax after sanding---this is totally okay with me but I was wondering what my friend was telling me when referring to the oil. He's out of town so I can't ask him. I will follow the video.

It's gunstock wax, not gunstock oil. The oil is in the oil soap.

 

[WillyD]

TGL,

The bridge bolts thread into inserts not a block. True oil is used on a clean neck. Oil soap to clean and condition at the same time.

 

[TGL]

My friend told me that he washes the neck with Murphys oil soap 2 to 1 mix (water to soap)--then applies a coat of gunstock oil (Birchwood Casey) to the neck and wipes it off --then applies the wax(Birchwood Casey) and wipes off 2 or 3 times.
No biggy but I think I like the sanding then the wax. Seems easier. Maybe my friend is doing it the actual way they do it with a gun? I don't know ,I've never done this to a neck. The Sting Ray I just got needs to have it done though.

Okay I read the 3 pages of posts that cellkirk brought my attention to. Seems like it's all the same but just a tad different. I think I can work up a scenario to go by.